This one doesn't hold back, a classic citrus aromatic with big balls, mine is a 2021 formula and is very powerful and long lasting, it actually leaves a sheen on my skin for at least 30 minutes, opens with a bright punchy herbal citrus accord that really projects and announces itself, this stage lasts quite a good while and never really dissipates, it just gets supported with some 80's florals and then the basenotes, there is some leather in the base that offers a good dose of masculinity, obviously my formula is lacking oakmoss which is a shame but don't let that bother you it's still very enjoyable and long lasting, this would suit a classy guy with a few rough edges.
Underwhelming at first given the hype it received, however I kept trying it and trying it until Ani really hit a chord with me , it's a grower and takes a bit of understanding, I mainly get a sort of synthetically musky lemon cake with a pinch of ginger, I think the musk put me off at first as like Erba Pura it can be headache inducing but it doesn't quite do that with Ani thankfully, the supporting notes of rose and blackcurrant keep it all in beautiful balance, great performance and highly concentrated, I can't help but think this would be gorgeous on a female more than a man, it has many facets that would suit a well dressed pretty lady.
Tabarome is a fragrance of quiet confidence.. in the best possible way, gorgeous opening and fairly bright with bergamot and tangerine , quickly the ginger backs up the opening but doesn't overpower and there is a subtle organic greeness in the background, as tabarome drys down i can smell salty sea air and at this stage I'm reminded of millesime imperial, if this is a tobacco fragrance then it is the clean leafy green type and perfect for humid climates, performance is good but very understated , I kept getting little whiffs as the day went on...I think this would be a great fragrance for summer evenings.
You only have to look at the fragrances that this one reminds people of, like many have said it's a rose forward scent of high end quality, there is a jammy feel that is offset with smooth incense, it is perfectly balanced and never feels too sweet or scratchy, performs fantastic and would suit a formal occasion, if you want a high quality glimpse of what rose scents are all about about then this is a stunning starter fragrance, my only qualm is that it does feel a bit boring after an hour, that being said it won't do to the people your sharing company with, the price that this can be found is excellent.
Outstanding scent profile if like me your into soapy green creations, there is an immediate sharpness from the lemon that brings huge projection and sillage which is what I want from my fresh fragrances, the dry down is green and mossy with a clever touch of Amber to keep it warm, the fragrance doesn't seem dated at all, classical is a better word to describe it, the lavender is deliberately kept rough to again offer punch, but as I mentioned the touch of Amber in the base keeps the fragrance in balance. Duc De Vervins L'Extreme is a gift to lovers of the green soapy genre, it smells natural and is priced very generously.
In the opening I get a huge blast of booze and peppery spices , drifts into incense and cedar with a benzoin under belly to offer sweet contrast to the dry woods, smells 75% like Guerlain Heritage but without the aldehydes and cumin , ultra masculine and masterful perfumery by Nathalie Lorson that really got her noticed, God knows how they produce this on such a small budget, it really does make you wonder how these niche houses charge so much money, performance is excellent with great projection in the first hour or two, if you enjoy Heritage and woody fragrances then this is well worth a try.
I've enjoyed wearing Edimbourg, green and dewy foremost with a mild lavender running through the whole fragrance, the story behind the scent actually connects well with my wearing experience, I can envisage walking the Scottish Highlands and the smells of wool and woodland, what connects this to Chanel is a signature house vanilla twist in the dry down, it's like taking Penhaligons Blenheim bouquet and giving it the Allure homme edition blanche treatment. Nice projection in the first hour and then sits close to the skin for a further 5 hours on me, I've seen lots of people suggest this is a masculine scent...if you can pick up on the vanilla as I do it feels perfectly unisex.
A fragrance with a huge nostalgic nod to the legendary Dior eau sauvage, however Scandal pc is much more than that, there are lots of small details in here that are a joy to experience, like the whisps of spearmint and the mossy backbone with warming ambergris vibes, the notes read like a who's who but what I find astounding is the way in which I can detect at least one third of them individually, it's like a 3D version of a fragrance and being able to smell the layers and technical details felt like quite an eye opener. Scandal pc performs nicely on my skin, I get an hour or two of excellent projection and then it form's a wonderful 1 foot aura for many hours. I really enjoy this new concept of fragrances by Roja, they are much more accessible yet don't suffer in quality or technique, I own three of them and they are always so much fun to wear.
Quite a youthful flanker of Le male with its sweet nutty opening, it feels very on point with todays designer offerings, i tried it twice in store and ended buying a partial bottle online, i think i was seduced by the opening as this for me is the best part. i see the ultra male comparison sure but i also see a bit of ormonde man in there too, thankfully its not ruined by the bubble gummy vibes of todays style and manages to keep it tamed with vanilla and the original dna. The first hour it performs well on me but then starts dropping off quite badly, the vanilla is quite annoyingly synthetic and at this point 2 hours in i'm done with it.
Classic chypre in style, feels well thought out with nostalgic intentions, has lots of hidden mossy vibes and yellow floral astringency, loads of depth and totally French in character, wouldn't need a lot of this really as a little goes a long way, the bit I struggle with is the sort of burnt wool smell, like when your ironing a wool jumper on too higher temperature, I'm not huge on chypres so maybe it's a little unfair to comment but from what I've tried over the years this one seems very well made with excellent blending and respect.
A very traditional 80's style that reminds me of Azzaro pour homme, Penhaligons Duro and is extremely close to Bois du Portugal by Creed (I did a side by side), I get a lime and bergamot opening with plenty of black pepper and lavender, immediately I can detect a nostalgic oakmoss vibe running through the whole fragrance, I then start to detect bits of castoreum and leather that gives NYI a slight gasoline twinge, a bit of civet offers a touch of astringency to the bergamot but never goes over the top, the whole fragrance has been blended to absolute perfection, nothing is out of balance yet still manages to be very bold in its execution and initial projection, NYI is a gift to the people that miss the good old days of oakmoss driven fougeres, I could imagine anyone with a bit of style and class suiting this fragrance, it would also make the perfect signature scent for an older gentleman, I get about 5-6 hours performance with the first 2 hours projecting very well, I'm certain due to the naturals a bit of air in the bottle will improve performance further, well done Nicolai and thankyou.
This is really good, fresh opening with the grapefruit then drifts slightly tropical with an exotic floral smell , 20 minutes in it has a warming spicey vibe which carries through , slightly spice bomb and slightly sun cream smell , well blended..its very smooth and doesn't smell synthetic, it will work great on summer evenings in your hawaiian shirt with Panama hat , partner said she liked it too. Performance seems good also, as with most trumpers they aren't really eau ds cologne they are more like good performing edt's.
What a pleasent surprise, it's a bit like a golden version of Creed's bois de Portugal, 80's power house in nature but never gets too harsh or heavy handed, notes list reads like an A-Z but what I'm left with is a sort of dusty citrus lavender combo with a golden feel enveloping everything, great projection and it really lasts all day.
This is rather special, I get a floral cherry Amber with touches of incense and clove, it's very elegant and extremely well blended, this is the result of high quality ingredients and a talented perfumer combining to create a luxury item. 1888 is one of the best Amber fragrances I've ever tried, it ticks every box for me and I bought it immediately after sampling, it also performs fantastic, all day spicey whiffs of cherry and carnation. It's also a compliment magnet and draws people in, in the summer just go lightly on the trigger.
I'm reviewing my 2016 bottle (as the new ones are awfully synthetic and weak), Original Santal is an absolute joy to own in the British climate, it has a structure and scent dna that lends itself to any season I think, smells like soapy cinnamon and vanilla with fruity touches, now that joop is a faded memory this dna will be new to a whole generation of people, assuming they don't watch Jeremy fragrance they won't have tried MB individual, it is a cosy scent but at the same time loads of fun, I've smelt high quality Amber based fragrances with a similar sillage, it's a sort of classy bubblegum type of smell, I don't mean like invictus by any stretch I just mean it's like a spicey bubblegum vibe but ultra classy, I mean how can chewing bubble gum be a classy thing..this is where the quality and blending comes in, like most early formula Creeds the perfumer has a natural talent for saying to himself when something is finished and a complete product, the balance of performance, quality and fun are all here in perfection and in my opinion way better than joop, original santal has always been in my top 3 Creed fragrances and I've managed to buy a 2016 back up bottle, now be warned the new formulas are not good at all in my opinion, one third of the performance and more synthetic which is where most people will judge this scent, maybe Creed will improve things going forward hopefully but for now I suggest people buy vintage or avoid altogether.
As the name suggests really, take a very pleasent citrus cologne and add some freshly chopped woods and greenery, a bit of chainsaw oil and leather with salty skin vibes (same mineral accord in salted mango)..its very well done and the balance of notes work perfectly to create an addictive organic feel ..its as tho the smell is alive and happening in front of you, I'd imagine the fragrance to be universally liked by traditional fragrance enthusiasts as it has a retro feel like Dior Jules or Azzaro pour homme.. as buzzlepuff mentioned . Performs well in the first hour but tapers off a bit too quickly on my skin and becomes very close and then gone within 4 hours.
A citrus opening with a sexy dirty tobacco and leather enveloping the whole concept, after the opening it sort of drifts into a bit of that icey epic man feel with a leathery tobacco overtone, could almost be a flanker to epic man really. Journey man feels like classic west colliding with east type of perfumery, with the west tone being more dominant overall, this is quiet a complexed fragrance but achieved with an air of simplicity, like when a football team score a great goal and make it look easy, Morillas and Negrin have done the same here, deceptively simple class, performs much better than I initially assessed, strong in the first hour or two and then sits on the skin for a long time.
Smells like a horse to me in the opening, that smell of horse hair in the summer, there's a field near me and I sometimes walk the dog there, I'll feed the horse some fresh grass from the other side of the fence and give it a stroke, when I smell my hand afterwards it smells a lot like this. Further into the mid I detect incense, cedar and tobbaco, I can hardly detect the rum which I would of liked more of to round out the dryness, into the far dry down a pleasent attractive patchouli makes an appearance to slightly clean things up, overall I find montecristo a dry animalic creation with a creative feeling of history and time, I enjoyed my sample but I'm not sure if I want to purchase a full bottle.
I think in the last 20 years this could be penhaligons best fragrance release, I know a fragrance isn't about the presentation but my word the whole package is simply stunning with the gold rope , heavy bottle and hard glossy box , inner felt , a piece of art. Now onto the fragrance , take the original formulation halfeti with its woody spicey feel and add a blast of rum and dried fruits , it's like a Christmas version of halfeti with a warming almost rich gourmand overtone , you could almost say it's like Christmas pudding with rum over the top that's been lit along with the original halfeti DNA, in the deep dry down I pick up on bits of cedar and leather working in tandem with the sweet spicey vibe.. performance is fantastic, projects so well for many hours and stays on skin for about 9/10 hours , overall every box is ticked and Penhaligons should feel very proud of themselves for getting so much right here, and for once I'm going to say it's worth the price. My only negative would be I couldn't wear this in the summer but what a treat in the colder seasons ..sublime release.
It took me a few wearings to get my head around the hype, once I'd started to relax into the fragrance it became quite addictive.. some days I just sniff the cap of a fragrance for a little fix, I do it regularly with this one, there's something about it that gets me smiling, firstly it opens extremely refreshing and sparkly with the cola vibe in full swing , floral notes accompany the opening with a stand out Jasmine that feels high quality, I'm not a huge fan of Jasmine but I enjoy it here, then there are hints of boozy wood and tobbaco to work in tandem with the sparkling cola, with touches of warm vanilla and benzoin to carry things through into the dry down, projection is good for the first hour and then it becomes closer to my skin for a further 7 or so hours, it seems to come alive with body heat and movement, quiet a mysterious fragrance that feels new and complexed, I could imagine this smelling fantastic on a British summer evening.
I don't see the comparison to Aventus, this is a different animal, much more modern and not afraid to take advantage of modern aroma chemicals like ambroxin. It is as much about grapefruit in the opening as it is pineapple, the grapefruit gives it a slightly scratchy feel that can confuse the wearer into thinking it's cheap, in reality Hacivat is a projection monster that is boosted by grapefruit and dry woods (the strongest Aventus batches always have a healthy amount of woods), I really enjoy the streak of oakmoss running through Hacivat that gives it a green masculine maturity to offset the playful opening. I don't find Hacivat overly sweet as some reviewer's claim, in fact I find it perfectly balanced with enough woods and astringency to offset any sweetness, overall I think Hacivat is fantastic attention grabbing night out fragrance.
This is for the latest formula in 2020, opens extremely bright and energetic, citrus and civet with some pine touches from fir and a slight green organic feel, it has that classic French chypre style that could come across as dated to some people, if you appreciate classic perfumery tho you will really enjoy Jules, after an hour a bit of dark leather creeps in and keeps it well balanced and stable on the skin for many hours, the more I try Jules the more I fall for it, there's a lot going on in the note list, but it's a rather simple bright chypre that has been executed with intelligence and artistry, the colour of the juice resembles the actual smell to me.
When I first encountered Royal Oud I felt completely underwhelmed, I expected some extravaganza of royalty, elephants bursting out of the bottle, drums being banged and a banquet of delicious flavour....ok so that was completely far fetched but the hype this fragrance seems to carry is incredible. What I got was something very muted and muffled, a woody muffled peppery thing I thought. 15mls into my bottle and five or six wearings later I completely get it, this is understated class ..the sort of fragrance that is a silent killer..those close quarter meet and greet ones that leave a lasting impression of class. I get a velvety cedar over pepper with a genius twist of angelica ..almost creating a slight liquorice vibe , the small amount of oud creates a chalky feel yet earthy at the same time, it's such a tiny amount but that small amount makes the fragrance, it's so clever really and these sort of creations are not developed under pressure from executives breathing sales pressure down the perfumers throats , they are artistic and almost poetic, Royal Oud has been allowed time to be perfected and this will show in its development and journey on the skin, excellent fragrance with very good performance (my bottle became a bit stronger over time).
Sweet Turkish rose accentuated by rasberry and a bit of caramel , it's a good quality opening in line with many other niche sweet rose scents, there is just enough darkness lurking underneath to help it feel balanced and interesting, spice and it's many listed woods achieve this, although I can't pick out which as they are cleverly muffled by the sweetness and rose accord, I suppose you could say it's well blended. Beautiful presentation and performance is fantastic, around ten hours and 4 hours projection with good sillage.