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Intense Cafe by Montale

I’m with Colin on this one. Flat, sickly sweet and uninteresting. No coffee to be found. Suspect the sickliness is lightly dosed with norlimbanol, hence the intensity.
Nov 20, 2021


Noir de Noir by Tom Ford

A very woody rose with not much oud makes this its own thing. I don't get truffle, but there's a sharpness that keeps the vanilla sweetnesss from becoming cloying. Some steady hum between rose, patchouli and vanilla, sharpened by the saffron, works well. I like it more than I'd expect from the opulence of this.
Nov 14, 2021


Un Air de Bretagne by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Those who like calone will likely find not enough if it here. Those who dislike it will probably, like me, find it still has more of the stale wet garbage note than they need. I’ll stick with Sel Marin for my aquatic needs.
Nov 7, 2021


Blue Cypress by Goldfield & Banks

A light and refreshing thing; sweet but not overly so. Somehing about it reminds me of Versace, maybe the start of The Dreamer, I can't quite recall. Coud use more patchouli or the tabacco of TD to fill out the base . Thumbs up for not being calone heavy.
Oct 31, 2021


Godolphin by Parfums de Marly

Somewhat lighter and certainly less monotonous than Tuscan Leather. Unlike others it seems, I don't find it particularly fruity.
Oct 31, 2021


Bohemian Lime by Goldfield & Banks

A very bitter vetiver, reminiscent of Lampblack. This dominates the opening lime. I suspect norlimbinol is involved too.
Oct 31, 2021


Sedbury by Parfums de Marly

Unfortunately I experience this as a strong yeastiness, reminiscent of Jeux de Peau. I suppose it might relate to the iris, a note I often enjoy (for example in L'Attesa). Not for me.
Second wearing the tuberose dominates in a coconutty way. Still not for me.
Oct 24, 2021


Noble VIII Rococo Immortelle by Clive Christian

What an astonishing waste. The first 24 hours of this thunderous, dry as dust, bitter ashes, wood fragrance are so loud and dull.
Finally, late the following day, the immortelle has space to make itself known for the first time. The delicious tangy maple syrup skin scent that then emerges makes me so lament the noisome day that preceded, cloaking it.
May 13, 2021


Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur

A terrific fragrance. I recommend reading JTD's review below. It helped me appreciate this more than I already did. Previously I glossed this as an old school fougere with anise notes. Now I attend more to the specifics of what happens as it warms and softens. A nice dance between form and content.
Apr 17, 2021


Javanese Patchouli by Ermenegildo Zegna

Surprised at the love for this one. Not interesting, not awful. Add the price tag and that's a firm thumbs down
Nov 4, 2020


Amber Oud by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

I wish I liked the opening more, but it's too playdough and rubber for me.
The drydown is excellent: as Darvant says, it's like ASA's Castoreum, but I prefer it to that in so far as it is less sweet.
Sep 17, 2020


Black Phantom "Memento Mori" by By Kilian

A muddied sweetness. Nothing is clearly itself but that isn't a virtue here: it just isn't at all interesting.
Apr 17, 2020


Vert d'Encens by Tom Ford

The accord of pine with a creamy heliotrope is unusual and I'm never quite sure it's for me. But I enjoy it when I wear it so I guess it is.
Something about it conjures flashbulb childhood memories of climbing in cypress. That's the "vert" I guess. The incense I don't get and can't say it's missed.
A nice oddity.
Mar 25, 2020


Bond-T by Sammarco

I came to this via Borneo 1834. That is a well-rounded mug of cocoa compared with this. Gimmegreen is exactly right that there's a medicinal level of patchouli here which makes it so forceful compared with the Lutens. I need to be feeling high energy to reach for Bond-T but the reward is great: a deep, dark, dry-yet-musty aura. I too wouldn't want more sillage than there is.
Feb 16, 2020


Five O'Clock Au Gingembre by Serge Lutens

Milky-sweet ginger woods. That's not anything I'm looking for so I wouldn't seek it out. But it's certainly nice enough and better than lots of things out there. Lasts all day, though with pretty modest projection.
Nov 5, 2019


Endymion by Penhaligon's

Agree with david black: this is confused and confusing. The sage seems to strangle everything somehow. Doesn't last long.
Oct 21, 2019


Savoy Steam Eau de Parfum by Penhaligon's

A fresh, sweet and clean floral: rose. If that's what you want, probably good for you. Not much rosemary, pepper or incense around.
Oct 21, 2019


Neroli 36 by Le Labo

Jasmine calone. This is the first time I've not had a violently negative reaction to calone so there's that. There's something pleasing: sunscreen on a salt-sprayed beach perhaps. Nostalgic, synthetic. Wouldn't buy it.
Oct 20, 2019


Concentré de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermès

Light bright vetiver. Opening minutes have a fresh grapefruit zing along with the so familiar Hermes thing that's common to the Jardins series. Fine if you like that. Grapefruit is good but brief; no match for AA Pampluna. Only the faintest trace of rose in the woody vetiver. That vetiver is the main event here: light and bright and good as it goes but too whispered and fleeting for a neutral rating.
Oct 12, 2019


Armani Privé Myrrhe Impériale by Giorgio Armani

An oily vanilla that starts too bluntly strong and stays that way. For "ambery woods" I guess norlimbanol. Certainly clings for days like that molecule does.
Not for me.
Oct 4, 2019


Armani Privé Vétiver Babylone by Giorgio Armani

What JDBIII said. If inoffensive vaguely citric woodiness is your thing you can do better for less almost anywhere.
Sep 29, 2019


Hermèssence Poivre Samarcande by Hermès

PS made me give up looking for a pepper-focused fragrance. It offers a great snapshot of pepper and initially I was wowed. But a few more wears revealed a quite muddied structure and this same queasy drydown I get from Poivre 23, Piper Nigrum and to a lesser extent Poivre Piquant. Oh well.
Apr 29, 2019


Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford

Not unpleasant just joyless; a monotone ashtray experience.
Apr 24, 2019


Jil Sander Man (2007) by Jil Sander

Meh. Hard to dislike this inoffensive wood and violet. But pretty hard to be interested too.
Apr 13, 2019

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