kingofengland

H24 by Hermès

Nice fresh topnote on a more conventional base.

The fresh green and fruity topnote is what makes this perfume. The greenness reminds me of a rainforest base formerly offered by a well known German company. The fruitiness is in the direction of apple, melon,banana and possibly cassis. Ylang ylang also comes to mind, with regard to the banana note.

The drydown is more akin to the standard scent found in many mens fragrances and toiletries e.g. Gucci Nobile, Platinum Egoiste, Drakkar Noir and its descendents. This certainly ensures it has wide appeal and acceptability, even if I don't particularly like Drakkar Noir personally.

There is a woody amber aspect, very familiar, similar to that displayed by the aroma chemical Vertenex. Speedracer below also picks up a 'metallic' note, with which I would agree.

As usual the declared ingredients do not help very much in understanding the perfume, though narcissus certainly has a green character. The narcissus was co-extracted with another material, it is said, the identity not revealed With a prestigious launch like this there are probably captive molecules and undisclosed secrets.

In my opinion the fragrance is excellent and probably worth buying just for unusual fresh topnote, as the price is certainly not extortionate.
Jul 1, 2021


Pomelo Riviera by Atelier Des Ors

This is an extremely fresh zingy citrus note which somehow contrives to be "green". A natural kind of green very similar to the scent of cow parsley, the herb commonly found growing by the roadside, the hollow stems of which are used by kids to made pea shooters. That's why it puts me in mind of country walks. No doubt it's all down to various aldehydes but the freshness is incredibly natural. The nearest relative I can think of would be YSL Live Jazz, which has a similar type of aldehydic freshness in the direction of tangerine, but lacks the green connotation found here.
May 24, 2021


Honoré's Trip by Honoré de Prés

The juice is colourless, slightly cloudy, not golden yellow as above. The scent is faint, barely perceptible and evanescent. A vague effluvium of citrus, pleasant enough but not very exciting. Or perhaps it's just too subtle for my nose.
Mar 27, 2021


Chamen's Party by Honoré de Prés

Having read the reviews I expected a smoky vetiver note, maybe with clove. To my surprise I found no discernible vetiver at all. None of the declared ingredients in fact, are evident to my nose. This is an intriguing mild, balsamic fragrance, reminiscent of some of the exotic balsams that Robertet produce, bearing long names. Well worth a purchase.
Mar 3, 2021


Nu Green by Honoré de Prés

Faint, most peculiar, oily, orange-citrus note. Nothing to do with greenery. A practical joke, perhaps?

Like most others in the lineup, Nu Green is weak and short lived. This is not necessarily a drawback since the target customers probably don't like perfume very much, certainly not strong perfume.

Nu Green slightly recalls L'Artisan's Mandarine Tout Simplement, by the same perfumer. Its understated nature makes you think "there must be something I'm not smelling here, there must be more to this".

The fragrance could be compared to an abstract modern art. Mostly white canvas with a few washed out splodges of indeterminate colour. Most people will be baffled, but a few, on seeing the signature Salvador Dali - or Olivia Giacobetti in perfume terms - will be rather more impressed.

Update Feb 2021. I have changed my opinion of this one with further experience of it. Faint it may be, but fresh, green, minty, natural, and I can really believe Robertet had something to do with it. I bought a bottle, enough said.
Dec 29, 2020


Love Les Carottes by Honoré de Prés

Beery, yeasty, like a home made raspberry wine that hasn't finished fermenting. Plus some carrots. Not very strong, fortunately.

Update Feb 2021. With some novel perfumes, it takes time for your nose to get educated to them, and to smell them properly. Reassessment now is much more positive. A pleasant earthiness from the carrots, an underlying dry raspberry tone (similar to that in Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather) which is presumably coming from the orris. My overall impression? Suffice it to say I have bought a bottle.
Dec 29, 2020


Special for Gentlemen by Le Galion

Spicy woody and musky, very similar to Spiritus Land 2 by Miller and Bertaux.
Sep 26, 2020


Cuir d'Iris by Atelier Materi

Very nice orris. Predominantly woody but also carrots, earth, violets. Gentle and subtle. Some reviewers have said horses, I'm not too sure about that but there could be a hay filled barn with saddles and bridles. Excellent very natural scent and truly unisex.
Sep 25, 2020


Héroique by Rancé 1795

Less boring and characterless than many of the other Rance offerings, the head note of pineapple can be discerned, but most of the other declared ingredients don't make much sense. My dominant impression is a hot paper-and-printing press odour, very like aldehyde TMH. Whether this material is present I have no idea, but the effect is by no means unpleasant

I agree with Tol58, there is a parallel of Rance with Creed both in the ancient heritage of the brands and the type of weird, nondescript scents which comprise a significant part of the catalogue
Sep 24, 2020


Le Vainqueur by Rancé 1795

Agree with Colin Maillard's assessment below. Less a perfume than a random mix of aromachemicals. No idea how it survives in the marketplace but maybe people buy it for the bottle and packaging
Sep 24, 2020


Santal Blond by Atelier Materi

Not really typical of sandalwood in my opinion. More in the direction of coconut/fig, with a note making me think of lauryl alcohol or the detergent used for bubble blowing. And especially of a powerful Firmenich speciality called Cedarome. The vintage formula of Cedar Wood for men by Goya also had this smell.
Sep 22, 2020


Poivre Pomelo by Atelier Materi

My favourite of the Atelier Materi series. Fresh lemony spicy. It made me curious to buy some Timur Pepper, said to be the key ingredient.
Sep 22, 2020


Peau d'Ambrette by Atelier Materi

The angelica roots can be distinctly detected, against a musky, sweet and slightly gourmand background. There is a discreet herbal inflection suggestive of clary sage. Subtle and gentle scent and one of the stars of this new brand. Packaging looks attractive and the concrete caps are said to be hand made, everything made exclusively by women. The very high price is difficult to justify, all the same.
Sep 22, 2020


Malt by Akro

I am not a whisky connoisseur, don't like the stuff much, but that smoky-peaty aroma, which aficionados revere and which to me recalls the antiseptic TCP, is faithfully represented here. Distilleries such as Islay make much of their proximity to the sea, and I note the declared ingredients of this fragrance include seaweed. Top marks for authenticity and originality.
Aug 29, 2020


Awake by Akro

My impression is coffee concentrate of the 'Camp' variety or else stale instant coffee powder. It certainly hasn't got the freshly roasted quality that you get outside a coffee shop, which is so attractive. I think it is probably an acquired taste.
Aug 23, 2020


Haze by Akro

This fragrance really smells like its stated ingredients, which is by no means always the case. You can pick out the artemisia, and the eucalyptus, and I got the rough composition before reading the product info, which again is unusual.

Though the overall effect is pleasing it is not too different from what one associates with aromatherapy blends or even home made mixtures. The marketing stuff about addictions to cannabis I find off-putting and in rather poor taste, and does not convince me to fork out significant money.

I have rated it as thumbs up however because this bold and camphoraceous fragrance is interesting and different.

The brand calligraphy is artfully done.

Aug 23, 2020


Brittany Breeze by Lubin

It is a pleasant enough perfume with a complex anisic and slightly minty character, but despite the overall image and name, marine notes are not really evident.
Aug 16, 2020


Camélia Chinois / Eau de Camélia Chinois by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Passable floral scent with watery green facets of the type commonly found in soaps and air fresheners. Appears unrelated to its declared ingredients. Not really worth reviewing.
Jul 23, 2020


Oxiana by Profumum

Thoroughly modern but totally nondescript, apart from a vague aura of sticking plaster which is all that is left in some ultra-minimalist apologies for perfumes nowadays after everything interesting has been taken out. You might find it behind a glass case at your local Boots chemist along with other similar products.
Jul 23, 2020


Bahiana by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Grapefruit, tropical fruit, floral and woody notes. Closely resembles Minotaure from Pablo Picasso, and to a lesser extent South Bay from The different Company. Both Bahiana and Route du Vetiver share a pleasant sort of bitter freshness.
Jul 22, 2020


Teint de Neige by Lorenzo Villoresi

Teint de Neige, loosely translated as Sprinkling of Snow, (literally, "snowy complexion") is one of Lorenzo Villoresi's best-selling fragrances.

Snow makes me think of Russia rather than of Italy, and sure enough there are echoes here of Red Moscow, the famous Russian perfume by Brocard (1913). That perfume, the original vintage of which I recently had the opportunity to smell, brings to mind the Russia of the Tsars and the opulence of a bygone era.

Teint de Neige is also an ode to the past. It recalls a vanished world of graceful living, where ballets were more lavish than they are today, attended only by the most distinguished, refined and impeccably dressed members of high society. Go behind the scenes and you may catch the scent of the dressing rooms where the starlets are powdering their faces.

Like Red Moscow, the Italian fragrance features rose, ylang and heliotrope. It is a very "powdery" perfume. What does that mean? Perfumers use the term for woody-violet or orris (iris) notes, long lasting and reminiscent of body powder, face powder or talc. In keeping with this, Teint de Neige is available as a body powder. Like a sprinkling of snow, it suggests softness and a caressing quality, plus an overall clean feeling.

Product evaluated: Beauty Soap (box of 3, see my pic). These soaps have an elegant faceted decahedron shape. Set off by their white box, they are the colour of pale sandstone or - yes - face powder. The scent, though not excessively strong, is diffusive enough to perfume your bathroom and even beyond, lending to your house the discreet aura of a classy establishment.
Jul 21, 2020


Arso by Profumum

The sweet Fir Balsam note is to the fore, it is not a bad fragrance and as noted below there are echoes of Norne by Slumberhouse and Cape Heartache by Imaginary Authors. However it is less raw than Norne, smoother and more perfume-y and lacks the interesting wild strawberry facet of Cape Heartache.
In fact it veers towards Cartier Declaration in its general sophistication, which in turn begins to approach Femininite du Bois to an uncomfortable degree - I say uncomfortable since whilst it might have seemed ok when it first appeared, the sweet cloying cedar-ionone-musk accord has invaded everywhere.
As Scent Detective notes below, asking for this product by name in English speaking shops might raise a few eyebrows. I am reminded of when I first went to university and a fellow chemist was telling me about a chemical body related to pyrrole, but with arsenic in place of the nitrogen, whose name was the cause of some amusement.
Leaving such irrelevant matters aside, I prefer Profumum's Olibanum which has a rather similar but slightly lighter odour, and an impeccably respectable name into the bargain.
Jul 21, 2020


Route du Vétiver by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

I smell rhubarb. Not as strident as styrallyl acetate, more like rhubofix (Firmenich) with its woody aspect.
Jul 21, 2020


Garrigue by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Want to spend a lot of money on a generic Drakkar Noir style mens' scent that's trickled down into half the cut price supermarkets in the country? Here's your chance.
Jul 21, 2020

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