Pasha by Cartier

A well-blended, straightforward, classical fougere. Rivals YSL Jazz and, more recently, Sartorial.

Better than the latter, to my nose, and cheaper and more consistently available than the former (by far) — recommended for fans of the style and glad that I finally got around to understanding this juice. Longevity could be better, but it's cheap enough to decant and reapply.
Aug 27, 2018

Sartorial by Penhaligon's

This day, 2018 Aug 27 :

A straight-up homage to a previous designer release from 2003 (hint: tin can) this one is very likable based on the structure alone. It's a twist on the classic anise fougere a'la Azzaro and the aforementioned YSL juice.

But for me, the balance is off and the heart becomes a one-note affair for so long that I just want it to be over by time the base is revealed.

Well-made and sample-worthy, for certain, but I think this is done better, cheaper by others (see Pasha de Cartier).

Two thumbs sideways.

Aug 27, 2018

Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne by Helmut Lang

This little number is very attractive. There's a reason they brought it back after the earlier run, which sold out and was unavailable for a long spell (as I understand it).

This juice is very likeable. The opening and first ninety minutes are so, so enjoyable.

Toward the end it is still holding together, and you can remember what the opening smelled like.

Sadly,r the spoiler for me is a fairly long stretch in the heart where when I sniff, and I get mostly ... scented baby powder. Nearly as if it were a solifloré of that note.

I like powderiness, and even that mystery accord they still use in J&J baby powder, but this is a case it's a little too much by itself, with not much to support it, and so it's all I can smell for a while.

I suspect this is a unique condition, a curiosity in the way my skin plays out the notes of the composition, but whatever the root cause, for me this issue puts HLedC in the "cannot be FBW" class.

All that being said,for me it'd have to give it a neutral, but would strongly suggest any interested readers to test for yourself, as it's a very friendly composition whose quality is readily apparent, and so I am scoring it as *thumbs up* in my public rating.

Jan 15, 2017

Sandalwood by Caswell-Massey

The reviews on other forums are way more mixed (& negative) than here. I cannot deduce why that is.

Because I am principley a Basenoter I blind bought this recently (curse you Amazon One-Click!).

I will not dispense with pleasantries.

What we have here is room spray.

Oh, wait—Joe Malone, et al, make great room sprays. This is not them.

So; room spray when you run out of room spray.

That's what my bottle is doing.

(So, at minimum, try before you buy, but it's a clear Thumbs Down for me.)
May 4, 2016

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

Terre de Hermes invented a class of perfume we didn't know was missing and in doing so created one of the performs of the twenty-first century.

Orangey semi-sweet over flint and vetiver amped up with Iso E-Super created a wearability that hadn't been experienced before.

I used a whole bottle, then switched to the edp, but it lost its mojo for me and I rarely wear it. I the sweetness stands out too much for me now, where it didn't for so long.

Based on the above, I'm scoring this one Neutral, but noting that everyone should be familiar with it, as it represents a landmark of perfumery.

One thumb up, one thumb sideways.
Apr 1, 2007

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