Like a jean jacket with a lacy chamise underneath.soft pink with a elegant energy.one of those fragrances that instantly makes you happy,it has a hopeful carefree happiness about it.it smells dewy green floral rose and has a refreshing feel.not a bad rose but not particularly great either.good for a change from the dark rose to the pink rose.easy to wear,supremely feminine.
Opens with the lovely rose and citrus. after a few hours the roses start disappearing and I'm left alone with a slightly soapy,inoffensive fragrance that it's not bad,but doesn't have any roses time to reapply.i would actually recommend this fragrance as a safe gift for a woman that tends to enjoy soft floral scents.the longevity in quite good.the projection,however,is relatively soft and unobtrusive.
Sampling Pineward Perfumes Steading, a spicy, resinous, borderline animalic blend that might be among the most provocative of the house that I’ve tried so far, with listed notes of tobacco, hay, beeswax, barley, dried needles, poplar, hops, maple, and wisps of peat smoke. The hay in particular seems prominent, and reminds me of the hay note in Slumberhouse Sova (in which it is similarly central), complemented by woody notes, the resinous beeswax, and a touch of sweetness via maple. It has the effective of being an ensemble of fall/winter notes, creating a mostly outdoorsy vibe that nonetheless has roughly foody aspects added to it, not as purely outdoors as the more arboreal entries in the line but not particularly gourmand-like like Apple Tabac or Revelries.
Steading is certainly a bit less safe than some of the other woodier entries but I love it all the more for that. Again, I’ll need to retry it alongside some of the others but this is an easy love for me.
Steading has the same pricing as the rest of the line, at $135/80 for 37/17ml.
Smells exactly like Johnson's baby lotion (the one on the pink bottle). On my skin there was no citric opening, nor vanilla on base. Only straight up baby powder and baby lotion. It's impossible to smell it and not think of the color pink - light pink. Adorable on babies, but for women (even young women) there are plenty of other powdery fragrances out there.
V is great in the way tells a fairytale from the perspective of the virago,the place where the virago dwells and leaves it's mark.V chants about this place in a style between Gyorgy Ligeti's volumina,Donovan's season of the witch and The Cure's a forest. classic fougere-like,yet a bit sweet and rounded off around the edges, making it slightly more modern.
The herbal top notes of V feel aromatherapeutic,like an expensive all-natural spa.after a while,this megablast of a note is supposed to dissipate,leaving it's place to the aroma of a wonderful autumn walk in a rainy forest.not everyone has the patience to get to that stage,and neither a tendency for a long,long walk in the dim wilderness rather than hitting the nearest shiny shoping center in a super crowded day.
Cocoa and dark chocolate - the two component in the opening, set the scene for the theme this product is conceptualised around: sweet and bitter. The bitterness was quite strong and nigh-skanky, but then settles into a good balance with the sweeter component. Very nice.
The drydown adds some cinnamon, which does not last long on me. This is followed by some hazelnuts.
Towards the ends a dry vanilla appears. Unlike in many other olfactory creations, this vanilla is not a sweet and creamy filler applied in the last hours of the development, but sparingly added as a condiment; this vanilla is a good team-player.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
Whilst the ingredients of this autumnal creation are not particularly original and occasionally a bit generic, this composition is an interesting take on the gourmand chocolate theme, being much less sweet than usual and trimmed down; it is a bitter chocolate more than a creamy nougat. The performance is good. 3.25/5
What an exquisite scent. It is layered, eloquently, using first grade ingredient. Telling a story of Grand Opulent Luxury. There are whispers of Amouage Opus Vl with it's Citric edge set against a wall of Benzoined Vanilla together with the Benzoined Patchouli extravagance of Chanel Coromandel. The soft, light powder suggests the full fat content of the Finest Savon.
It is not easy, how to explain or describe something as interesting as La Fille de Berlin, for a scent expert it is a joke, let's say too easy, but for a lover of delicious scents like me, who has no professional training, it is a challenge. The simplest and most straightforward would be: a powerful and sensual pink, with spicy undertones that over time, that combination tends to perish to a strange menthol pink, which changes, between that menthol and that sensual spiciness. I know it sounds very feminine, but my friend, if you are a bold man, this can be really good for you.
A delightfully fresh and uplifting fragrance. Herbal and somewhat pungent but not in an unpleasant way. I get some similarities to Bogart One Man Show and Krizia Uomo in the far dry down. I would say this could be unisex but to me it leans to the masculine side more. When I first got a mini of this I could not stop smelling it; I had to then buy a full bottle, and am glad I did! Worth a sniff if you happen to come across this one.
Sampling Pineward Perfumes Revelries, a sweet and spicy blend that pivots away from pine/fir/spruce and leans rather toward Apple Tabac in that it’s quite sweet and more gourmand-leaning, Apple Tabac being the most unlike the others I’ve tried from Pineward so far. Revelries brings notes of raisin, rum, clove, and cinnamon to the forefront with the vaguely apple-ish vibe throughout, though leaning far more on the other four notes. It has the effected of a mulled cider with a mix of dried and stewed fruits, opening a bit spicier, especially with the clove, but giving way to the apple/raisan blend. I prefer the dry down, overall, as the spiciness might overshadow the sweetness at times in the opening.
Revelries isn’t my favorite of the line but it might be among the most unique that I’ve tried so far, and perhaps the opening just takes a little getting used to. Nonetheless, it’s dense, rich, and has a nice transition from the spicy opening to sweeter dry down, very seasonally appropriate for the cooler weather, a common trait of the line.
The pricing for Revelries is the same as the rest of the line, at $135/80 for 37/17ml, so not inexpensive by any means but still appropriate for the level of craft.
I'm an ordinary man love perfumes and not an expert, my opinion on the perfume is simply what I feel when wear it. Paco Rabanne after the success of one million starts to have a hidden line link thier famous perfume one million to other perfumes released after. You can find that hidden background in Phantom. The lemon in opening make it fresh, while patchouli in heart and wood make it masculine and mistry.
If i were to describe the scent of L'Eau d'Issey Florale,then she would be that elegant lady who is just minding her own business.quiet but sharp and intelligent. since her presence is inoffensive,you might not notice her at first glance in the crowd,but once you notice her,you are done for.
Gorgeous fresh pink rose,perfectly blended with lily,wood,a touch of citrus.i love the opening: fresh,divine roses that float around me like a cloud.it's very daytime inoffensive while still being sensual this is not your nanas rose garden more the soft feel of rose petals and silk sheets during a warm afternoon romp.sillage not so wow.i do find it lasts 5 hours on me which is better than expected.
Fruit, spice and floral, a peculiar combination at the start, which could be a dog's breakfast or an original set of top notes delivering an original first phase - the latter was the case. Pear, ginger, as a tuberose appear together - the tuberose is is a bit delayed - and their joint force result in an original moment of the synthesis of the three.
The drydown is based on dried grass in its core. Hay absolute and bran absolute are mentioned in the scent pyramid, but the hay is in the foreground on me. Then I get the eponymous narcissus, finally, and, quite unexpectedly, it remains in the background for a while, before becoming stronger after a while.
The base develop a smooth suede-kike leather, followed by an usually mild and soft patchouli. Towards the end it becomes much sweeter as a result of a large dose of white musks flooding the whole in the final stages.
I goer strong sillage, excellent projection, and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
A very good first phase in this spring scent is followed but a good drydown, but the base does not keep up this standard, as it lacks vividness and is a bit too generic. The performance is good. 3/5
For my birthday, I splurged on some pricey Roja decants.
Diaghilev is the best of them. I can sort of see it as similar to Mitsouko but feels a lot richer than the version of Mitsouko I tried. Not loud, but potent. Odd sort of longevity that recurs long after you thought it was played out.
It's a wonderful scent and I'm glad a have a small decant but would never spring for a full bottle of this, even if the price were much lower. Doesn't really suit me, but I'll milk this decant to the end.
It's elegant and would make a great compliment to a dressy evening for sure.
I've never been a good notes analyst and nothing springs out for me as dominant.
Clever, well crafted chypre that does smell pricey.
It's reminiscent of firesides and old,old stories,as much as it is candle light and cigar,older boots still,crossed on a table as a kick butt babe reclines in a velvet seat,contemplating the breaking storm outside.this is not for people who don't like strong woody fragrances and live ir die by fruity gourmand florals.
Beautifully peppery yet gently curvy wood with enough zing in the incense to keep things moving along nicely for hours.i can almost see a dark cloak forming around me when i spritz it.a rather dark amber and a musty cellar base walks this from the church into the graveyard,yet a soft-fabric sensuality is still ruffling the edges. It's dark,rich,smoky and gothic.the performance is very good.
Zoologist Civet (2016) had all the makings of something horny and horrible, or horribly good, depending on how you want to look at it. Either way, I expected a shock to the nose and an entertaining ride. Well, that's pretty much the opposite of what En Voyage Parfums perfumer Shelly Waddington delivered in Civet, which ends up not being a whole lot about the note of civet at all. Now make no mistake, this does contain civet, or at least the synthetic civetone replacement molecule, but there is so much else going on here that really this could have been called "Zoologist Chypre" and have been more apt. For the most part, Civet tries to follow the Guerlain Mitsouko (1919) school of chyrpe design, being more floral than green, but adding significantly more fruit to the mix to make this feel a tad more modern. I use the term "modern" pretty loosely, because this is a chypre, and there is really nothing modern in a taste sense about the genre. The base has all the prerequisite mossiness, muskiness, and aromatic leathery tones that at one point in history could be attributed to De lare's famous "Mousse de Saxe" base, but now is conjured only in memory by synthetic proxy due to IFRA. The slightly urinous warmth of the civet starring note itself does finally emerge after the fragrance settles, but with so much fruit and floral prettiness on top, you won't be looking for it. Considering the overall obtuse nature of Zoologist compositions in general, and the brand being known for tossing out and remaking its own fragrances when they aren't well-received enough, I'm not surprised.
The opening is a blast of citruses and spice, replacing what would otherwise be seen as the dated aldehyde opening of chypres past. The sweet tangerine, orange, and lemon play well with the black pepper and tarragon, bringing us easily into the fruity-floral core that defines most of Zoologist Civet. Tuberose, frangipani, and carnation form the heart, and here is the biggest reason I ultimately feel indifferent about it. I'm not the biggest fan of peachy, fleshy tuberose, nor am I the biggest lover of sweet frangipani either, so with both overdosed as they are here in Zoologist Civet, I struggle to overcome the apricot nightmare they create in my mind. This is one osmanthus note short of making me run to scrub however, and they do gradually soften with the carnation, backed by hyacinth and musky ylang-ylang, although it's not enough to save it for me. The claimed wisps of coffee are also noticeable here, which adds yet another gourmand facet in addition to the fruit blast which I am not super okay with, even though the rest of the base is nice. Patchouli, birch tar, oakmoss, labdanum, and the rest of the classic chypre vibe is here, recreating some of the Mousse de Saxe beauty that merges with the latecoming civetone to bring a slight urine quality to the finish. Notes of fresh cedar polish it off, and the far dry down I actually enjoy. Performance is stellar, and use where/when you want, because the affable nature of the arrangement really does belie the musky growl underneath, although it stops shy of being a modern day red light fragrance.
Problem for me personally, is it's not really worth waiting for the far dry down while putting up with all that tuberose, frangipani, and swirling sweet citrus notes which dominate for the first four hours or so of this fragrance. This is strictly a taste thing on my part, as I really do not like sickly-sweet fruity florals, "fruitchouli" orientals, or candy fruit ethyl maltol gourmands. What Zoologist Civet effectively does, at least in my mind, is mix this very popular modern style with the form factor of a classic early 20th century chypre, then tosses some cat pee on top to justify the name of the perfume. For lovers of far feminine-leaning perfumes, this might just be a perfect blend of new and old, bringing all the youth bounce and sweetness of a modern day designer women's fragrance, with the gravitas and come-hither allure of a classic chypre once worn by mature take-charge women who knew what they wanted and didn't ask for it. I can really appreciate this vibe, as it's something we need to see more of (and not just in expensive niche land), it's just not something I could particularly enjoy wearing. I tend to like my bold women's chypres full of butch leather and smoke, or resplendent yellow florals filled with blooming aldehydes, real Bette Davis or Catherine Hepburn stuff. By comparison, Zoologist Civet is more like Joan Rivers, who was in a perpetual state of cosmetic revision her whole life, in that it feels so face-lifted as to be more about its own revision than about what originally lied under it all. Still, if you like fruity sweet animalic chypres, this is of a rare breed not to be missed, and samples are easy to come by. I'm just not a fan of the style presented, but can appreciate the work put in by Waddington herself. Neutral
“It was a pleasure to burn.
It was a special pleasure to see things eaten, to see things blackened and changed. With the brass nozzle in his fists, with this great python spitting its venomous kerosene upon the world, the blood pounded in his head, and his hands were the hands of some amazing conductor playing all the symphonies of blazing and burning to bring down the tatters and charcoal ruins of history."
- Ray Bradbury
Absolutely stunning. Fruity florals and dirty, earthy green. Like walking through a forgotten place, the ancient stone structures with moss growing from the dusty cracks, and experiencing the scent of time itself.
"The entire city is burning
You can see the flames like the inside of a mad jukebox
Lost boys stalk the streets with those jungle markings on their chests
Barbarians prowl in shadows, their heads rocking with rodents
Motorcycles reproduce in nocturnal alleys groaning with greasy pleasure
And they've blown up the YWCA like a giant balloon
And sent it out to sea full of screaming, lovely, lonely girls"
- Jim Steinman
A walk through the late autumn evening. Streetlights illuminate the wet pavement, the puddles casting monochrome reflections of the season. Wool coat, leather buckles, ingrained with the scent of tobacco and time itself. The smoke of burning leaves hangs in the air, as a remembrance to the dying season. Your breathe dances in the air like autumn fog. It's going to be winter soon.
Azzaro Wanted by Night is a very appealing masculine scent with a good performance. It opens with a warm tobacco and leather opening but there are fruity notes in there that make the opening intriguing, sexy and inviting. This is the wow factor for me, the sort of opening that reminds me why I love collecting mens fragrances. As the fragrance settles on the skin it becomes a bit more spicy as the cinnamon and incense notes begin to play more, the tobacco is still prominent and there is something slightly peppery in there. The dry down becomes less fruity and more woody, there are the persistent tobacco, leather and incense notes but the main notes I detect in the dry down are vanilla and lavender. Wanted by Night is a fragrance that I think is a great date night fragrance and well suited as an autumn and winter fragrance. It works well when going out at night and dressed up but it also works dressed more casually having pizza and drinks with friends. So it is somewhat versatile but really shines as an evening/nighttime fragrance. I believe that both younger and more mature men can enjoy this scent. On my skin I get around 6 hours of wear from Wanted by Night and the projection is good. Overall I really enjoy this fragrance, it's one of the favourites in my collection. Well blended with an enjoyable scent trajectory with good masculine and sexy vibes.
Leonard Pour Homme, a great leather oakmoss chypre - an aromatic overture with citrus and lavender sets the stage for a woody leather note, a resinous cistus and ambergris, the subtle warmth of castoreum and the deep resonance of oakmoss, that practically “shimmers” on the skin. It is intoxicating and I find myself savouring the effect.
Pretty sure there’s tobacco in there too - either tobacco leaf or an accord - but can’t find it listed anywhere.
An elegant leather-oakmoss that, to my mind, is in the same class and category as Hermès Bel Ami.
If you like Bel Ami, you will like this.