Latest Perfume Reviews


Matsukita by Clive Christian

Smoky cedar topped with red apple, quickly drying down to a strong birch tar leather, joined by cashmeran's forest floor effects.

My best guess is that this is built on a frame of Iso E Super, because, walking around outside, I'm enveloped in smoky apple and wood, but smelled up close, I just smell suede and cashmeran - I always think of that sort of separation as a chemical trick of Iso E.

This lacks the rich, luxurious base and longevity I’d expect from a scent at this price point, which is a bit annoying, but the overall smell, as well as the cleverness of the apple/leather combination, still earns a thumbs up.

As an aside, this bears no relation to Crown Perfumery’s Matsukita - It smells like they just reused the name, not anything from the original classic formula.


Cristalle Eau Verte by Chanel

There's nothing sensual or mysterious about a fragrance like this. Cristalle Eau Verte ia a scent for an elegant, intellectual, far sighted minimalist. It gives you a very peaceful and relaxing feeling.

The perfume opens with an airy green note, which is a bit sharp combined with the citrus. However, the flowers soften the greenness just enough to make it a little easier on the nose. The green notes, the flowers and the cedar blend in to that energizing vibe of taking a walk in the woods just after it has rained and the sun is starting to shine again: optimistic and airy freshness and a sweet woody breath from the trees.

It's like amplifying the fact that you just took a long bath or shower and you emerged squeaky clean with a hint of soap trailing behind you. Cristalle Eau Verte is the fragrance you'd wear to the gym, ballet, fancing or yoga class.



Monsieur Lanvin by Lanvin

A true masterpiece who is standing the test of time. Even if the newest version is not quite as nice as the previous ones, it is still amazing. Monsieur Lanvin reeks of sensual pleasures and old-world elegance, yet is as brisk and bold as an autumn dawn, reminding us that classic perfumes needn't be treated like dusty museum pieces.

You can feel the connection to Eau Sauvage and Diorella which both play on the aromstic citrus theme and dirty/clean dichotomy. However clary sage and geranium add a floral tenderness to the opening salvo of bergamot, but there's no hedione to elevate and freshen the floral-citrus medley, as in Eau Sauvage. It is subdue and behaved in all it's glory, well intended and won't annoy, yet there are pulsion and animalistic things going under the cover

The result is the smell of clean sheet with the subtle musk of two people's bodies.It's a grown up fragrance for those younger at heart; Monsieur Lanvin is not a fragrance for youngsters who want to grow faster than what they truly can get away with. Very good performance.


Imperium by Electimuss

Spicy, dry, woody, vanilla. It’s much sweeter and more vanilla-focused than the comparisons to Aventus, closer instead to the realm occupied by Ani by Nishane. I originally thought this leaned masculine because of the dry citrus and woody notes, but it's so sweet and vanilla-heavy that anyone can wear this. It does smell impressively good.

There's also a prominent oud base note that is noticeable hours after the sweetness and vanilla start to fade. That's what really sets Imperium apart from some of the "smells-alike" compaisons.

Very good projection with minimal prays and lasts most of the day.


Revillon Pour Homme Haute Concentration / Super Concentrate by Révillon

From time to time, the stars line up and all goes well on Earth. One time when this happened was 1964; Aramis, Goldfinger and Hard Days Night all burst onto the stage that year. Another annus mirabilis was 1977: it saw the arrival of Star Wars and the first flight of Concorde, and that seminal Punk album The Clash that annoyed parents of teenagers across the land.

It was also not a bad year for perfume : Opium, Oscar, Monsieur Jovan, the original Valentino, and the original Ungaro were all launched; the last where Jacques Polge tried out a woody baseline that later appeared in Antaeus.

Reggae band Culture called their album of that year Two Sevens Clash, and indeed it was a time of upheaval. Along with weird looking Punks, the controversial advertising for Opium showed wasted-looking models lying around in drug dens.
It all seemed designed to put the Old Guard on notice, and sure enough, Elvis died that year, and later, in 1979, the moribund government of Britain was booted out by Margaret Thatcher.

And getting back to perfume, there's another one from '77 that we haven't talked about yet, Aramis Super Eau de Cologne, a beefed up version of the classic; apparently its the same - just more so...

Which brings me to Revillon pour Homme. The one I have is the Haute Concentration; again, it's apparently the same but stronger.
YSL did a Haute Concentration of their own 'Pour Homme' in 1981, but these are rare, and its funny that two should arrive in '77 like that...


The best way I'd describe the HC is like Pino Silvestre meets Aramis; a piny, ambery chypre in the style of Bernard Chant. A scent in the style of the early Seventies, it's nothing ground-breaking but a firm, assured type of masculine with quiet confidence; the kind of thing you don't find in Sephora any more.

Quel dommage - as they say in France.


Révillon pour Homme by Révillon

From time to time, the stars line up and all goes well on Earth. One time when this happened was 1964; Aramis, Goldfinger and Hard Days Night all burst onto the stage that year. Another annus mirabilis was 1977: it saw the arrival of Star Wars and the first flight of Concorde, and that seminal Punk album The Clash that annoyed parents of teenagers across the land.

It was also not a bad year for perfume : Opium, Oscar, Monsieur Jovan, the original Valentino, and the original Ungaro were all launched; the last where Jacques Polge tried out a woody baseline that later appeared in Antaeus.

Reggae band Culture called their album of that year Two Sevens Clash, and indeed it was a time of upheaval. Along with weird looking Punks, the controversial advertising for Opium showed wasted-looking models lying around in drug dens.
It all seemed designed to put the Old Guard on notice, and sure enough, Elvis died that year, and later, in 1979, the moribund government of Britain was booted out by Margaret Thatcher.

And getting back to perfume, there's another one from '77 that we haven't talked about yet, Aramis Super Eau de Cologne, a beefed up version of the classic; apparently its the same - just more so...

Which brings me to Revillon pour Homme. The one I have is the Haute Concentration; again, it's apparently the same but stronger.
YSL did a Haute Concentration of their own 'Pour Homme' in 1981, but these are rare, and its funny that two should arrive in '77 like that...


The best way I'd describe the HC is like Pino Silvestre meets Aramis; a piny, ambery chypre in the style of Bernard Chant. A scent in the style of the early Seventies, it's nothing ground-breaking but a firm, assured type of masculine with quiet confidence; the kind of thing you don't find in Sephora any more.

Quel dommage - as they say in France.


Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills

This is an incredibly beautiful and sensuous scent, but deeply personal. I imagine a woman with dark, long tresses and nutmeg brown eyes that flash with golden ylang sparks. She leaves men in her wake, the unintentional side effect of mixing elusive cool and silken, golden flowers and with a warm, vanilla mystery wrapped in velvet spices.

After the fresh, bitter aldehyde opening it spirals through fields of roses, ylang ylang and cherry. It's full of flowers. Then the sweetness becomes oriental, spicy and close to gingerbread, where carnations replace neatly obvious cloves notes. Dry down is intoxicately dry like rich ambery liqueur, a heavy drop full of aromatic oils. Woody like oak that gives buttery notes to chardonnay barrels.

Totally It smells like a "night out" perfume to begin with it's spicy top notes, but evolves into a cosy floral with some wine/aldehydic accords. Red is a bonus for those who can't tolerate powerful spice scents like the Youth Dew or Opium.


Grisette by Lubin

It was a great citrus floral, stronger than average sillage, so a bit much for work. Great daytime scent for spring/fall.


Moonlight by Auric Blends

Moonlight through the chicken wire, humming windowpane,
Lukewarm water gasping down a rusty drain
Big town's in need of mending, street lights make toothsome seams
Denim shadows shuffle in between the beams


Ocean Song by Auric Blends

A song I heard the ocean sing
A shining light in darkness deep
I prayed a prayer into the tide
And both they soothed me in my sleep


Fall by Criminal Elements

"I'm so glad I live in a world where there are Octobers."
- L.M. Montgomery


Rumpelstilzchen by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

“I will lay my hand upon the flow of time, if need be, that you shall have however much of it you seek.”


Please Scream Inside Your Heart by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

We used to sit and talk about primal scream
To exorcise our past was our adolescent dream
But now it's sink or swim since your memory fails...


Moon River by Huygens

And the rivers run deep
Like a quicksilver stream
With wings on your feet
Your day is longer than your year
I look up at the night sky
For a moment I can see
The rivers run deep
Your day is longer than your year
The lies they feed to me
Are as edible as mercury
The rivers run deep
Your day is longer than your year


Body Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

When Tom Ford took the creative direction of YSL, back in 1999, he helped the brand create some of the best fragrances in their catalog. This was his first men's fragrance and was composed by the great Annick Ménardo. Although is kinda forgotten despite the fact that it's still available to purchase. Everybody talks about the discontinued M7 and Rive Gauche pour homme (which are both great fragrances) but this is very under the radar and i don't know why.

This is a really interesting fragrance. Despite the name, it doesn't remind me of Kouros at all. In fact, it smells like sweet woods (benzoin mixed with cedar) but in a weird, almost alien-ish, yet warm-fresh and inviting. The eucalyptus note is noticeable in the opening and brings the green freshness facet to the fragrance mixed with a chinese incense type of a smell that quickly fades away to the sweet wood thing that will last a good 8h on skin. There's a liccorice kind of a smell mixed in the composition but not so strong as in others like Lolita Lempicka, created also by Annick Ménardo.

Despite the weirdness, this is very easy and confortably fragrance to wear specially in night outs or during fall and winter time. Annick Ménardo ussually utilises new synthetic components and mix them with classical bases and ingredients. And this one is a good example of it. Very new and weird smell but, at the same time, really well made and with a classical touch.

i recommend this one even in the newer formulation. Of course the vintage has better quality and has a more disctinct eucalyptus note but, it's still Body Kouros and it still performs and smell good.

A forgotten gem that is still available and pleasant to wear.

4/5 for the vintage
3/5 for the current formulation


L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Noir Ambré by Issey Miyake

WOW! WOW! WOW! Amazing juice. It is similar to a few others on the market (PDM Habdan and TF TV for sure) with just a slight difference with the vetiver. Overall I find it most similar to Korres Saffron Tobacco this is just sweeter. Really great and it is available on online sites. Get a bottle while you can people. Enjoy!


Puppy's Breath by Demeter Fragrance Library

Major disappointment. Nothing resembling Puppy's breath. Overly sweet and chemical, there's nothing organic about this. My experience with Demeter had been their concoctions smell like what they're named. This smells like nasty dime-store old lady funk perfume mixed with laundry products. It sticks to you for days and is artificial and synthetic chemicals. Burns my eyes, nose and throat. HORRID.


Boss Bastard by Aaron Terence Hughes

The opening is old-fashioned soapy-citrus. Very much like a classic bar of soap. Has this industrial-cleaning products smell and is slightly powdery. After that wears away a few minutes later, you’re left with a woody, honeyed, dry tobacco. It's linear at that point, never really deviating much from the honey tobacco.

Projection is decent and longevity is very good, lasting all day.


Tabac Vert by Rogue Perfumery

Pleasant slightly cloying most definitely unisex sweet bergamot rose carnation. Fairly linear.
If you like this but want to smell masculine then Tom Ford For Men is a masculine spicy version of this and far more enjoyable.

6.75/10


Ruby Rush by Paris Hilton

A review of Platinum Rush

This fragrance smells cheap and immature and like it's trying hard to be sexy, like something a high school kid would wear to the prom with his rented tux.

A confused jumble of scents. At first hit it's incredibly sharp and chemical. After the initial sting of sour chemical, there is a fade to a floral/soapy smell. I think it's the jasmine.

And then you get the woodsy/musky smell that just hangs around forever. It's like a generic dude smell. For me, this is one of those bug spray scents that I cannot tolerate for more than a few minutes.


Monsieur de Rauch by Rauch

Monsieur de Rauch shares more than half its DNA with Azzaro pour Homme; so you might – from a distance - mistake them one for the other. But get up close, or see them side by side, and it’s clear that de Rauch was a Neanderthal, and Azzaro is Homo Sapiens.

de Rauch is a rough-hewn woody citrus that lacks the anise and the smoothness you get from Azzaro. Interesting only for what it’s not.


The Golden Secret by Antonio Banderas

Ultra-sleazy young club vibe. The Golden Secret is not meant to be a professional scent. It is meant to be a fun/flirty/party scent. If your nose needs more "challenging" aroma's you this isn't for you.

The opening is bright and clean assortment of undulating sweetness, as if muddled in preparation of cocktail hour, and approaching dusk. Nutmeg and "spices" blend in seamlessly, and with an elongated opening, lifts fresh mint and verdant patchouli, achieving chest expanding effervescence. The leathery dry down is a bit strong and could give you a headache.

For the price It's not a bad scent. It's mass consumption and so common. Well, not all are blessed to be fortunate enough for high and designers or niche. There can be no complains about sillage and longevity. Unless, you hate it.


Bittersweet Symphony Liquid Music by House of Matriarch

Well I've never prayed, but tonight I'm on my knees
I need to hear some sounds that recognize the pain in me
I let the melody shine, let it cleanse my mind, I feel free now
But the airwaves are clean and there's nobody singing to me now


Dark Rum Perfume Oil by Malin + Goetz

“Only, in Haiti, I realized, is it possible to drink rum and haggle with a god.”

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