Darvant's Review of Gentleman Eau de Parfum Boisée by Givenchy

New Gentleman Boisé

Despite its final prominent synth peppery-cedary (and vaguely "gassy-leathery" a la Fan di Fendi Pour Homme) chemical woodiness (which is typical of dozens recent or relatively recent releases) I have to say to moderately appreciate this well combined Gentleman's "nutty-chocolatey-woody" night-time flanker focused on yummy patchouly (nothing rooty or earthy in here but a musky-cocoa centered oriental bombastic modern sweetish patch), seasoned woods, chocolatey semi-gourmand tones and soothing iris. Definitely a dark combination of notes aiming to perform in to glamour-chic urban dark territory. A night time fragrance imo, far batter suited for social down town after sunset events or romantic dinner. Manly and modern. Smooth (vaguely powdery) iris and musk provide a general musky floral aura counteracting the angular lingering vibe provided by woods, leafy geranium and spicy (not listed but slightly present imo) leather. In this case synth boisé scents a la Montale Aoud Musk, Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis, Nasomatto Black Afgano and Duro, Tiziana Terenzi Laudano Nero, Marc de la Morandiere Kozmic Oud, Bruno Acampora Nero, Carner Barcelona Cuirs, Orto Parisi Boccanera etc. jump more or less on mind with their intense musky woodiness and a part of their spicy/woodsy characteristics - in particular the final musky-oriental sandalwood's tone - (at same time ss ideally related to brand new chocolatey/musky creations a la Valentino Uomo, D&G The One edp or Ferragamo Uomo Signature). Connections with the new 2017 Gentleman's formula jump as well on mind in particular if we imagine the basic structure of the new Gentleman 2017 and replace the freshness provided by citrus, fruits and lavender with a darker musky/nutty-chocolatey/boisé spicier "olfactory basement" (overall with a subdued leather's presence). Lingering on the note's evolution itself the top notes are definitely fresh and spicy under my nose due to this combination of leafy geranium, coriander and pepper. This introduction does not depart energically from the Gentleman 2017's top stage (which is just fresher, more aromatic and probably fruitier). Iris and cocoa (in their stout semi-oriental soothing/darkening/sweetening connection supported by this musky patchouli) by soon encompass the fresher top notes (heating those up) and lead the aroma towards a darker more sweetish/semi-gourmand/oriental affair (quite woody but mellow, moderately sweet, chocolatey/nutty, barely ambery and musky). Along the way the woody-boisé spirit of the juice comes up along the development's long tale and this more angular synth sandalwood's tone emerges with its touch of intense (almost salty/burnt, vaguely pencil-shaving, barely leathery and definitely intense) harsh woodiness (the part which I less appreciate). This new Olivier Cresp/Nathalie Lorson's flanker is closer to the Eau de Parfum Gentleman's 2018 formula than to the 2017 new edt remake but while the 2018 Edp deflects finally towards a softer still musky but more vanillic field (tolu balsam and vanilla) the boisé more recent formula is more focused on woods and bitter cocoa (more restrained and finally less balmy) in to a more properly "harsher" virile way. Recommended to all those urban wolves of the metropolitan night with a decadent romantic intimate soul but all at once with a "disposable" social "dodgy clubs roaming for oriented" damn chic attitude.

  1. Darvant

    Basenotes Plus From London/Italy
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