Way Off Scenter's Review of Gravitas pour Homme by Naughton & Wilson

(Genre: Fougere)

Whoever decided to christen this routine and unmistakably lightweight modern fougere “Gravitas” has either a problem with Latin or a very fine sense of humor. What I smell straight out of the bottle is a minor variation on the familiar post-Cool Water/Green Irish Tweed ambroxan-flavored fougere genre, distinguished by, if anything, a relatively large dose of “laundry detergent” white musk and a higher price point than most. Gravitas disappoints me, coming from the nose John Stephen, who once composed the much more memorable Citrus Paradisi, Neroli, and Cuba for Czech & Speake.

The fine, neo-Bauhaus oriented German manufacture Nomos once released, to commemorate the toppling of the Berlin wall in 1989 (incidentally, the year after Cool Water appeared), a limited-edition series of twenty watches, each one with its minimalist dial in a slightly different shade of gray. The sort of anonymous fougere Gravitas exemplifies reminds me of those watches: only distinguishable from one another if viewed together, and even then requiring a discerning eye.

Unlike the Nomos “Orion 1989” commemorative watch series, there appears to be no limit to these fragrances. In fact, I presume they will keep coming, in their various price brackets, until people get bored and stop buying them. For anyone who wants to pay this sort of price for a contemporary take on the classic fougere, I'd sooner recommend Dusita's Issara or Parfums MDCI's Le Barbier de Tanger.

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