Varanis Ridari's Review of First Eau de Parfum by Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels First (1976) is the aptly-named debut perfume for the house, and second composition released by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena of eventual Cartier and Hermès fame. Ellena stayed within the lines of convention with First, as he hadn't yet devised his hallmark transparent citric style at this early stage, but ended up making a landmark aldehyde floral chypre which put VC&A on the map perfume-wise. There are a lot of similarities between First and classic mature perfumes like Jean Patou Joy (1930) and Lanvin Arpège (1927), but First shows an exercise in blending that is arguably a cut above even some of the biggest "dames" of all time like Chanel No. 5 (1921) or Guerlain Mitsouko (1919) and the reason is in the dry down. Van Cleef & Arpels First does what other aldehyde florals in this category fail to do: Showcase a consistent accord from start to finish. In the modern age people might complain this is being linear since we're used to aromachemicals accomplishing a certain banal sameness from beginning to end, but First still allows progression through layers like any good classic perfume but with a beating heart that continues the entire way.

The opening of Van Cleef & Arpels First features the prerequisite aldehydes and bergamot for the style, but a smooth three-fold raspberry/blackcurrant/peach fruit keeps the aldehydes from being too sharp, a lesson learned from the sunny tomboy drugstore chypre Revlon Charlie (1973), but applied to a higher-budget perfume. The rose and jasmine sit somewhere between Chanel No. 5 and Jean Patou 1000 (1973), but there is a bit of tuberose like that of Jean Patou Joy mixed with a clean white floral bouquet of narcissus, lily of the valley and iris, keeping the indoles in check. The impeccable balance and blending continues into the base with just the right amount of civet stirred into a creamy foundation of musk, sandalwood, tonka, and oakmoss, with dry pangs of vetiver to once again keep the overall accord from being too rich or heavy. The end result is a familiar golden floral glow like other perfumes of the same ilk, but without any seams showing. The voluminous aldehyde push of No. 5 is controlled, the fleshy simplicity of Joy reigned in, the raunchy animalic undertone of Arpège buried in creamy clean. First is a one-stop-shop for the aldehydic floral, and one fans of the time-tested genre will likely wear as a signature in all seasons.

The generalist perfume as we know it in the 21st century didn't exist when Van Cleef & Arpels First emerged on the market, because guys and gals just wore wherever whenever, but if there was ever a generalist in the aldehydic floral genre, I'd nominate Van Cleef & Arpels First to that title. This stuff is just fantastically diffuse, never heavy, but always full, like the transparency of Jean-Claude Ellena's later perfumes but without such apologetic sillage. There is strength and delicacy in Van Cleef & Arpels First that few other florals duplicate without fancy chemical tricks or a loss of complexity. The style is woefully out of fashion especially in a post-IFRA perfume industry that seeks to outlaw all natural ingredients in the name of patented chemicals that firms can use to wrest control away from the houses who hire them, but a person of any gender who appreciates friendly and radiant perfume with a definite old-time "perfumey" air about it will love Van Cleef & Arpels First. This is simply one of the best in the genre I have smelled, and the "First" anyone should sample from the category. Thumbs up!

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