jtd's Review of Le Cri / Le Cri de la Lumière by Parfum d'Empire

From the first sniff of Cri, you're drawn directly to the center of the perfume. Perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato even factors in the volitility of the alcohol burning off and uses it to segue into a lustrous accord with the olfactory dynamic of an eau de vie. The topnote is like the scent of Poire Williams brandy or Slivovitz, where the fruit is pressed so far into the alcohol that it is reduced to essentials. It's neither juicy nor sweet and has an incisive slant. My note from first sampling Cri de la Limière reads, “Super fruity but dry as fuck.” Not the loftiest of insights, but apt. The Poire Williams note is the perfect backdrop for a sleek iris note. Woody, rooty, cool to the touch. Matching iris to the desiccated fruit brings out the vegetal nature of ambrette.

Cri de la Lumière is a closely tailored perfume that holds to a tight dynamic range. Rather than broaden the composition the musk accord focuses it, though the perfume sidesteps the strictness that a minimalist approach can impart. The rosy, fruity facets of ambrette are balanced by a plastic quality that gives a deliberate synthiness to the perfume. The fruit appears embedded in clear lucite and the slightly peony-like berry/rose gives a transparent pink sheen to the perfume. The effect is perfectly calibrated and though subtle, is durable. The fruit gives Cri de la Lumière a stained-glass effect and despite the specificity of the fruit notes, the perfume reads as fairly abstract.

The perfume's woodier side reveals itself periodically like a bit of slip showing. Once I spotted it, I couldn't stop looking for it to reappear. This sort of diversion is a good example of how Corticchiato's perfumes engage the wearer. Whether in a forceful perfume like Tabac Tabou or a more watercolor one like Osmanthus Interdite his perfumes reward your attention with engaging olfactory shapes and transitions. The perfume plays subtly with the animalism found in musk ambrette. (Musk ambrette smells like a sweaty, imaginary fruit.) Of the various dimensions of the material, the animalic feature is among the most durable. Corticchiato doesn't hide the material's ‘skin' side but he does nest it fairly deep into the perfume, where is is a quiet foil to the plastic, acrylic details.

from scenthurdle.com

  1. jtd

    Super Member
    • Messages
    • Reaction score

Recent Reviews of Le Cri / Le Cri de la Lumière by Parfum d'Empire

“Le Cri, formerly known as Le Cri de la Lumière by Parfum d'Empire (2017), is a cold rose perfume bas…” Read More
Varanis Ridari
“The spookiest perfume: to me Le Cri de la Lumière smells like the mixture of wood, cold roses/flower…” Read More
“An enchantment, a sparkle of crystalline light, floral snowflakes that envelop you like a cashmere s…” Read More
“The opening is greeting me with two main features: a bright iris (Florentine per description), and a…” Read More

Recent Reviews by jtd

Show more reviews by jtd...

Whatever your taste in perfume, we've got you covered...

catalogue your collection, keep track of your perfume wish-list, log your daily fragrance wears, review your latest finds, seek out long-lost scented loves, keep track of the latest perfume news, find your new favourite fragrance, and discuss perfume with like-minded people from all over the world...