188711

Darvant's Review of Azurée by Estée Lauder

Another masterwork from Estée Lauder, one of my favorite glorious perfume-houses. Azuree is a bold floral/aldehydic/musky leather-patchouli prominent (green) accord with an herbal-bitter dry foundation and a sort of waxy (yes, like aromatic burning candles, a la Clinique Aromatics Elixir) soul. The Aramis classic's feminine counterpart, finally brighter (muskier) and equally sophisticated (with a retro aldehydic/hesperidic mossy classically chypre architecture). I agree on that, if compared with White Linen, Pleasure or Alliage, Azuree is the more assertively complex and harder to wear of all. The initial aldehydic assault is heartbreaking and more than vagualy "stuffy", with a quickly "rising up" angular/crisp bergamot/patchouli, a "burning candles waxy vibe", a green/herbal angular presence of forest resins/dry woods/musks and a prominent victorian pungent jasmine. Amazing opening under my "neo-victorian" nose with the vivid myth of Windsor Castle's aristocratic ceremonies. Patchouli is by soon bold and kind of "Royal" a la Floris while jasmine is sort of "acid" and spicy (likewise in Aromatics Elixir I vividly notice an old-school deliberately "retro/grandma" kind of mystic/incensey/waxy background). Overall the floral presence follows this "massively retro" glorious decadent style and the aldehydes/bergamot/ylang-ylang's co-work enhances this dominant "fat" and exotic/spicy effect, ideally in the middle between Aramis Classic, Mitsouko, Aromatics Elixir and JHL. I have to say that anyway Azuree exudes a basically fresh and bright leather-vibe (despite its spicy/earthy/floral/aldehydic complexity). The leathery presence (refined and smooth) jumps up gradually bright and light (and going on along the journey more and more powerfully as for Aramis classic, just more florally, graciously and subtle) even in here supported by oakmoss, structural patchouli, musk, a tad of frankincense's austerity and a finally warmer/spicier ambergris-presence. The overall effect is still green, classically "chyprey", dusty and dry (un-sweet, woody). Another glorious pillar of old-style classicism in the same league as Cabochard, Aramis and further giants from a disappeared era. Projection is more than good on my skin, longevity is in the average.

  1. Darvant

    Basenotes Plus From London/Italy
    • Messages
      1,479
    • Reaction score
      27

Recent Reviews of Azurée by Estée Lauder

“I have worn Azuree for most of my life, right back to my late teens.…” Read More
Alityke
“I smelled Azuree for the first time recently: I have never been a great fan of Estee Lauder fragranc…” Read More
Infini
“Another masterwork from Estée Lauder, one of my favorite glorious perfume-houses. Azuree is a bold f…” Read More
Darvant
“Wow! The harshness of the initial aldehyde blast is nigh breathtaking and made me feel that this is…” Read More
rbaker

Recent Reviews by Darvant

Show more reviews by Darvant...
.

Whatever your taste in perfume, we've got you covered...

catalogue your collection, keep track of your perfume wish-list, log your daily fragrance wears, review your latest finds, seek out long-lost scented loves, keep track of the latest perfume news, find your new favourite fragrance, and discuss perfume with like-minded people from all over the world...

Top