Darvant's Review of Knowing by Estée Lauder

This is a great chypre, barely honeyed, magistrally "stuffy", clerkly, woodsy, animal and detergent at once in all its vintage opacity and subtle fruity-floral  sophistication.  Floral notes (rose-mimose in particular), oakmoss and a touch of animal and honeyed represent the key elements. Old school and classy for sure in the sliding land populated by complex fragrances joined by an invisible common edge as well as First, Eau de Soir, Diva, Magot, 24 Faubourg, Sweet Redemption, Aromatics Elixir, Aromatic Lime, Cabotine, krizia, l'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko and others. There is a green, sharply floral (iris?), waxy (?), animalic and mossy background, that reminds me something neutral and laundry (and the note of rose and mimosa give their contribute in order to cast this olfactory feel), together with a powerful bunch of mellow fruits, spices, hesperides, aromatic herbs, ylang-ylang, patchouli and rose-tuberose and woods. Some vetiver, spices and patchouli impress a well calibrated earthy-dusty vibe. Elegant, shadowy, slightly powdery,  cleverly potpourry but never cloying. Great longevity and good quality of smell.

  1. Darvant

    Basenotes Plus From London/Italy
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Brian Buchanan

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