Voleur de Roses
L'Artisan Parfumeur (1993)

Much more a patchouli scent with rose undertones than a rose scent, per se, Voleur de Roses is a study in those notes in perfumery that are not meant to be conventionally beautiful, but rather an exposition in those completely devoid of pullucidity. These are the visceral scents: loam, mulch, mustiness, decaying wood, haunting cellars and catacombs, shaded with a tender rose and plum wine.

You are greeted with the damascone-heavy rose, but it swiftly gets overshadowed (stolen by the thief?) by a dank patchouli. The thief patchouli has this kicking and squirming rose in an oversized knapsack, and the wafts appear and recede, as the scene darkens and this abduction of the rose, while unsettling, almost exalts this damp, camphorous patchouli in a manner I haven't really encountered elsewhere. It's almost as if I found the kind of patchouli I've been looking for while I on the mission for rose, with no cacao elements, with only this wistful plum sweetness hovering over the damp, sullen forest understory.

This is no unwearable miasma though; it is ever captivating and addictive to my nose. It is definitely an occasion fragrance, not for everyday wear. This wouldn't fly at a celebratory, fun occasion. It is far too elegiac, to be worn at times of quiet reflection, to be worn for oneself and among the right company, who can appreciate such off-center creations: more for fans of Munch than Monet.

Dangerously addictive and complicated. She is sultry and mysterious. Draped in a deep blood red, backless, low cut dress with a dark red lip and sky-high heels. She captures a full blossomed dark roses bud. She may seem delicate like a rose, but look closer and you can see just how destructive she can get; her thorns will rip your flesh if you pose a threat to her. She walks toward the darkness as the midnight ink swallows her whole, only her sensual scent trail remains.

A velvety rose, as spiritual as it's sensual. Dark, deep, earthy, provocative, luscious, oriental and opulent. This thing starts of as a huge bomb on me of roses, plum, then the most incredible thing happens, it turns into the most earthy&dark scent of strong patchouli with a hint of incense. It smells feminine to me, but i could see how it could be unisex/masculine if your skin amplifies the earthy notes. This is a perfume for the evening. An intimate spent alone with your partner. The sillage is moderate to strong and longevity is good on my skin.

Fizzy. Buzzy. Deep floral. Old-fashioned, Victorian bouquet. Resinous, pronounced patchouli. Fairly linear for awhile. Becomes a gentler floral. Softens to a powdery rose, for me. Becomes dainty after time, barely discernable.

This is kind of gross. Smells like sourness and cumin/oud/b.o.
Really no roses at all. It's oddly compelling, but it doesn't stink purty at all. All of these rosy, glowing reviews are... not the truth for me.

Voleur de Roses.

Floral woods.

Rose and patchouli have gone hand in hand in perfumery since many decades ago. Voleur de Roses is a rose-patchouli, but unique in an overcrowded niche. There is a haunting melancholic quality to it, helped with a rose that's fresh, moist, dark and plummy - paired with an earthy, damp patchouli. Part of it hints at soil, but it is rather abstract. This is a perfume that tells a story. Someone came and took away the roses in bloom, just after the summer showers. All that's left are a few petals in the ground. Voleur de Roses - what a perfect name.

Like several other L'Artisans, I find Voleur de Roses to be a subdued fragrance. It has average duration on skin of about five hours, but sillage is rather muted after the first thirty minutes or so. Still, I'm still willing to ignore this in consideration of how charming and memorable Voleur de Roses is. Among other rose-patchoulis, Voleur de Roses smells vaguely similar to Czech & Speake's No 88, though the latter is more brooding, gothic and opulent. Voleur de Roses is elusive, and therein lies part of its attraction. Once the roses leave after about an hour, the dry down is a sublime floral-woods, faint and delicate.

Voleur de Roses is lovely to wear on rainy summer days. Unfortunately it might leave you before you'd want it to, but you'd long for it and want to go back to it. There are gazillions of rose-patchoulis on the market, but Voleur de Roses remains a rare specimen.

3.5/5