Voeu de Noël
Caron (1939)

Caron – Voeu de Noel (Rose de Noel) (1939)

This Noel goes by two different names, Voeu (Wish) and Rose, both with the same release date of 1939. It is not clear which came first or when the new name was selected, but no matter. I am therefore leaving this same review under the Basenotes entries of both scents for cross reference.

This is a rich and spicy scent, very reminiscent to my nose of Lanvin's 1934 Rumeur, which contained almost twenty oils, and since there is no tree listing on Basenotes for either of the two incarnations of this Noel, I will be selecting what resonates from Rumeur's similarity.

First and foremost are the carnation and clove notes, supported by dusty, barely sweet nutmeg and spicy cardamom. A very rich Bulgarian rose emerges, slightly softened by what I take to be jasmine and ylang. The base could contain any of the nine Rumeur notes; it's very hard to tell. (For the record, these consisted of patchouli, oak moss, vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, civet, tobacco, costus and leather.) Rumeur dried down to a thick, boozy, fruity punch of peach and plum, which this Noel does not.

Although this could work well for both men and women, it is more a scent to be savored alone than in society, in one's manor house, before the fireplace, one's spaniel at one's feet and one's good single malt scotch at one's elbow. It is at the same time spicy and comforting. Worthy of being sought out under either name. A Christmas wish come true.

A lilac with a lovely violet undertone greets me in the first moment, and soon develops a spiced cinnamon aroma that is testimony to the Christmas theme that the name of this creation alludes to. Cinnamon bun meets a bunch of flowers.

In the drydown a rose develops, a rich, slightly dark, smooth and velvety rose. Additional floral components appear with time, most notably hyacinth, intensive carnation and whiffs of oleander.

Towards the base the slightly sweetish spiciness reasserts itself, accentuated by hints of a very restrained oakmoss that just provides the right counterbalance to the sweetish spices. Through the second part of the development I get a soft and bright powderiness in the background.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a stupendous longevity of fifteen hours on my skin.

This scent for Christmas evenings is of amazing intensity and purity. It is composed of ingredients of the highest quality, with good texture, structured well and very skillfully blended.

One of Caron's finest. 4.25/5.

This is listed as discontinued, but I paid $20 for a .25 mL sample (ouch!)Am I sorry it was put out of production? Not really. The opening and first three hours wear like N'aimez que moi on me, i.e.: a deep, rich rose accord on a sumptuous chypre base. Now that I am in the four hour stretch this is getting sweet. I don't have the notes to reference, but I suspect jasmine is too blame here. I'm used to Caron's mellowing out and hitting that 'chord' which is unique to them, but this more floral-sweet, with the slightest ksis of spice. If this was still in production I probably wouldn't chase after it, but I know who would. Anyone who is tired of the limp, sipid florals that are offered today and yearns for something with more elegance. Also any rose/jasmine fans. Should you spend the money to try this? YES! Even though it's not a must-have for me, the quality is unequaled in today's perfumery.