Vitriol d'Oeillet 
Serge Lutens (2011)

Average Rating:  19 User Reviews

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Vitriol d'Oeillet by Serge Lutens

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About Vitriol d'Oeillet by Serge Lutens

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Serge Lutens
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Vitriol d'Oeillet is a shared scent launched in 2011 by Serge Lutens

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Reviews of Vitriol d'Oeillet by Serge Lutens

There are 19 reviews of Vitriol d'Oeillet by Serge Lutens.


A meditative mood runs through this like melting snow in a cool stream. A Sheldrake interpretation of carnation, imbued with his signature spice accord and flair for rich texture, Vitriol d'Oeillet blooms on my skin. I am reminded of the ephemerals of early Spring, the snowdrops, crocuses, scilla, hugging the ground with their melancholy hues, the first to burst into color before the winter thaw is complete.

In its heart, I am reminded of the scent of Easter lilies, sweet, almost fatty, voluptuous blooms, but from a few meters away, their ambience, while there are undertones of ylang ylang supporting this accord. Ylang Ylang also happens to be indispensable in any carnation accord, appearing in classic Poucher and Gattefosse bases. Here it's highlighted just enough to earn its own solo in the development.

After all the spices and florals fade, what is left is a calming violet-scent soap and smooth musk, leaving me somewhat transfixed. Quietly sublime.


I was packing up my perfume collection in preparation for moving house. For some reason I added a few difficult perfumes to the box 'in use' and the rest went into storage. Limited to a few perfumes and a couple that I bought during that period I was reminded that your brain adjusts to a perfume. I was transported to the side door, to entering the vast glasshouses of carnations and other flowers owned by my daughter's friend's family. Clove, as has been said, is dominant at the beginning. I walked around after application thinking of the TV ad 'Raid' fly spray. That's observation No 2. After that, as it settled, I got to thinking of Parfum Sacre (No 3)and other 60s fragrances. As it retreated I thought of YSL's Opium. The longevity on me was amazing. It's not for the faint hearted, just as well I'm an old campaigner.


Doesn't anyone else smell the onion?

Anyway, on me Vitriol is a rather nice clove/carnation mixed with dusty iris and frankincense. It reminds me of Serge's Encens et Lavande, but with the lavender replaced by carnation. It's a great combination, darkly pretty, evocative and almost "haunted" in its shadowed dustiness.

But Serge wouldn't be Serge without a trick up his sleeve, so there's also a wayward mix of cat pee blackcurrant and fennel that combines with the dusty incense to smell like old, drying onion skins. It's an interesting artsy undertone at first, but becomes a full-on stinky onion smell a few hours in which just ruins everything for me. Oh well. I appreciate that Vitriol is trying to do something different, but it's a no for me.



Begins with a strong floral accord suggestive of a modified carnation aroma. When the spices move in, they move to a clove ambiance with the sharpness of cayenne in the background. In spite of the robust spices, the accord retains much of its floral nature. I'm not sure how the two kinds of peppers fit into the composition – I do not smell them directly but they are integrated into the spice composition. Along with the spicy / floral heart notes, there camphor has risen in the background, and the floral / spice / camphor accord remains to the end of the fragrance – I don't experience the wood base.

Abstract? Yes, but… I would prefer it less nutmeg-metallic and more floral. But in all, this is a enjoyable fragrance – admirably constructed as Lutens' fragrances usually are and lightly fresh which is a rare performance for a Lutens' fragrance. A modest thumb's up.


The peppers are immediately evident, giving the scent the sharp, pungent aroma of oud. It's very dry. I am assuming the "woods" is the oud.

It takes a while for the floral notes of carnation and iris to surface, but they are immediately done in by the strong clove and nutmeg blanket.

Since carnation and clove are identical in scent, differing by strength and intensity, the carnation note being light, green, spicy and fresh, and the clove being powerful and dark, there is no contest when you put them side by side. The clove always overpowers the carnation.

An interesting experiment gone wrong, in my estimation. The balance is all wrong. None of the delicate notes are allowed to be buoyed up by the denser ones. Instead they are submerged and smothered.

One of the oddest scents I have ever experienced and a total failure.


A cool, intense violet; hints of powder and blueberry (a cool colored berry). Sweet. Even though it's cool there's a vanilla note in there. Little old lady wearing powder and violet perfume. Very interesting fragrance - there's something that almost itches the nose (the pepper?), slightly off-putting but unusual and fascinating. Dries down to soft, spicy powder - it warms up a touch but still on the cool side. Long lasting but in about 2 hours fades until only detectable on being very close to the wrist.

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