Vitriol d'Oeillet 
Serge Lutens (2011)

Average Rating:  18 User Reviews

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Reviews of Vitriol d'Oeillet by Serge Lutens

There are 18 reviews of Vitriol d'Oeillet by Serge Lutens.

I was packing up my perfume collection in preparation for moving house. For some reason I added a few difficult perfumes to the box 'in use' and the rest went into storage. Limited to a few perfumes and a couple that I bought during that period I was reminded that your brain adjusts to a perfume. I was transported to the side door, to entering the vast glasshouses of carnations and other flowers owned by my daughter's friend's family. Clove, as has been said, is dominant at the beginning. I walked around after application thinking of the TV ad 'Raid' fly spray. That's observation No 2. After that, as it settled, I got to thinking of Parfum Sacre (No 3)and other 60s fragrances. As it retreated I thought of YSL's Opium. The longevity on me was amazing. It's not for the faint hearted, just as well I'm an old campaigner.
Oct 7, 2021

Doesn't anyone else smell the onion?

Anyway, on me Vitriol is a rather nice clove/carnation mixed with dusty iris and frankincense. It reminds me of Serge's Encens et Lavande, but with the lavender replaced by carnation. It's a great combination, darkly pretty, evocative and almost "haunted" in its shadowed dustiness.

But Serge wouldn't be Serge without a trick up his sleeve, so there's also a wayward mix of cat pee blackcurrant and fennel that combines with the dusty incense to smell like old, drying onion skins. It's an interesting artsy undertone at first, but becomes a full-on stinky onion smell a few hours in which just ruins everything for me. Oh well. I appreciate that Vitriol is trying to do something different, but it's a no for me.
Jan 24, 2019

Begins with a strong floral accord suggestive of a modified carnation aroma. When the spices move in, they move to a clove ambiance with the sharpness of cayenne in the background. In spite of the robust spices, the accord retains much of its floral nature. I'm not sure how the two kinds of peppers fit into the composition – I do not smell them directly but they are integrated into the spice composition. Along with the spicy / floral heart notes, there camphor has risen in the background, and the floral / spice / camphor accord remains to the end of the fragrance – I don't experience the wood base.

Abstract? Yes, but… I would prefer it less nutmeg-metallic and more floral. But in all, this is a enjoyable fragrance – admirably constructed as Lutens' fragrances usually are and lightly fresh which is a rare performance for a Lutens' fragrance. A modest thumb's up.
Aug 22, 2016

The peppers are immediately evident, giving the scent the sharp, pungent aroma of oud. It's very dry. I am assuming the "woods" is the oud.

It takes a while for the floral notes of carnation and iris to surface, but they are immediately done in by the strong clove and nutmeg blanket.

Since carnation and clove are identical in scent, differing by strength and intensity, the carnation note being light, green, spicy and fresh, and the clove being powerful and dark, there is no contest when you put them side by side. The clove always overpowers the carnation.

An interesting experiment gone wrong, in my estimation. The balance is all wrong. None of the delicate notes are allowed to be buoyed up by the denser ones. Instead they are submerged and smothered.

One of the oddest scents I have ever experienced and a total failure.
Apr 6, 2016

A cool, intense violet; hints of powder and blueberry (a cool colored berry). Sweet. Even though it's cool there's a vanilla note in there. Little old lady wearing powder and violet perfume. Very interesting fragrance - there's something that almost itches the nose (the pepper?), slightly off-putting but unusual and fascinating. Dries down to soft, spicy powder - it warms up a touch but still on the cool side. Long lasting but in about 2 hours fades until only detectable on being very close to the wrist.
Mar 16, 2016

A mild thumbs up. Nothing problematic here. A light, wispy scent. Rather pleasant, and certainly nothing like the odd name suggests. Indeed, a better name would be "Rose en argent" -- (rose in silver) -- for that is what the scent suggests. The iris and carnation notes blend to create a light rose note. The scent is dry and airy. Peppery spices are subdued but keep things dry. There are light and breezy hints of wood, and an airy note which sometimes suggests mint and other times freshly-cut paper. This light style is unusual for traditional Serge Lutens, perhaps part of the nouvelle vague of that house.
Dec 15, 2015

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