Vetiver Oriental 
Serge Lutens (2002)

Average Rating:  45 User Reviews

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Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens

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About Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens

People & Companies

Serge Lutens
Fragrance House
Serge Lutens
Creative Director

Vetiver Oriental is a shared scent launched in 2002 by Serge Lutens

Fragrance notes.

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

Reviews of Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens

There are 45 reviews of Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens.

This is one of those modern vetivers that doesn’t say ‘Vetiver’ and then adds a few curliqueues, it’s a sublimated vetiver, one that does not speak it’s name.

Creamy and white, it’s an icing-sugar Oriental, cool and lightly minted; with amber, heavy-hipped sandal and musk.

There are a few other bits and bobs as well, including labdanum, moss, and green sappy twigs; something fruity and metallic, and ‘chocolate’ ... white?

And so - depending on which side you focus on - Vétiver can be seen as a pale Oriental, or a green chypre (without the dark patchouli).

It makes me think (vaguely) of Ma Griffe, that jolly green chypre for girls - the first youth fragrance.
But VO isn’t jolly or youthful, there’s something amorphous about it - a hedging at this, a hinting at that... something unresolved.

Even though it doesn’t make the Power Play of his more lurid works, like Santal Majuscule or Ambre Sultan, this is still a typical Lutens - in the sense that it’s working away at his fetish, the Oriental.

Being a mixture of chypre, and then Oriental, it’s a bit nebulous - neither one thing nor the other.

Review of Palais bell jar:

Everything the pyramid says is here, is here. It comes down to how the balance works for you.

I'm finding this a lovely scent that thankfully doesn't plunge into Sheldrake's typical dense fruitiness. It does, however, flirt with gourmandishness via the combo of chocolate and amber. As gourmands are not my thing, I'd have preferred either/or, and given the "oriental" designation in the name, the chocolate seems more expendable. But, while the amber-sweetened chocolate is more present than I'd have wished, it's far from overwhelming. I'd rather have more vetiver in the mix, but it's certainly here, closely mated to the gaiac and musk in a dusky woody-grassy accord that's subtle and somewhat fascinating.

I don't think this is ever going to rise through the ranks to become a personal favorite of mine, but I can easily see how someone else would fall in love with it.

Vetiver Oriental opens with fresh sap enhanced by underlying slightly sharp, woody vetiver before quickly transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the vetiver remains sharp as it takes control, supported by moderately sweet, creamy powder-laced amber and slightly leathery labdanum rising from the base. During the late dry-down the vetiver recedes, leaving the amber and labdanum joining remnants of the woods through the finish. Projection is average and longevity good to very good at around 9-10 hours on skin.

I can't really say much about Vetiver Oriental except that it smells pleasant at all times but never really separates itself from some pretty stiff competition as vetiver compositions are seemingly a dime a dozen nowadays. The woody vetiver kind of reminds me of the vetiver heart somewhat hidden within the amazingly successful spiced Earl Grey tea focus of Coeur de Vetiver Sacre by L'Artisan, but while that composition uses the vetiver in an unexpected way, Vetiver Oriental seems rather unadventurous by comparison. I find it hard not to recommend sniffing Vetiver Oriental as it does smell good, but with so many others that are similar but more interesting it is equally hard to recommend a purchase. The bottom line is the $100 per 100ml bottle Vetiver Oriental smells polished and well-blended, but needs something else to distinguish itself from the ever growing pack, earning it a "good" to "very good" 3 to 3.5 stars out of 5 rating and a tepid recommendation to at least try for vetiver lovers.

The iris pallida and the sap top notes greet me at the beginning all right, but both are rather pallid on me, but apart from that they work together well on me

The vetiver that appears in the drydown is simple, bright, lacks any earthiness, and is rather insipid again. Touches of milk chocolate, white musks, and whiffs of neroli develop at this stage too, with a transient whiff of ginger noticeable too at times.

The base combines an ambery woodsiness (sandal, guaiac) with mossy greenness and a touch of spice, which is contributed by a labdanum note.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection, and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

An original concept of a scent for cooler spring days, but quite pale and anemic in most of its ingredients. It is a shame that the notes are not stronger and more vivid. It is not bad though. 2.75/5

A stylized vetiver that borders on the gourmand. It is almost Baroque, with many facets that point to an Orientalized vision. Greenish and woody, spicy but slightly sweet as well.
If a pronounced vetiver fragrance is what you want, this is not it. Rather the vetiver is coy and hinted.
Hidden. It is like going into a deep forest that darkens, with danger pulling you in.

Well made, coherent, and highly recommended! Especially for the cooler months.

Vetiver?? Where??

This should be called Cocoa Patchouli Oriental, because there's no vetiver here or anything even green about it.

At first I thought it doesn't smell bad, but after wearing it more, it's kind of a stinker. Not to mention I am not, nor will I ever be a fan of patchouli. Though I gave it the benefit of the doubt due to praise, and respect for the label Serge Lutens. I'm guessing the reason this is probably the cheapest Serge Lutens male fragrance out there is because nobody wants to wear it. It's a stinky, stanky, musty patchouli, there's no vetiver anywhere to be found, it's extremely strong and overpowering even in small doses, and there isn't anything to balance it out. It's super linear. Sap and iris?? Where? What are these notes, did someone pull them out of their ass?

Bottom line.. don't expect vetiver here. If you like
LIDGE, you may enjoy this. I will never let a prestigious brand like Serge Luten, Comme des Garcons, Creed, or anyone else ever influence my decision of a a fragrance, if it's bad I'm gonna let you know, and this one sucks!

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