Vanille de Tahiti Eau de Parfum 
Perris Monte Carlo (2020)

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About Vanille de Tahiti Eau de Parfum by Perris Monte Carlo

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Perris Monte Carlo
Fragrance House

Gian Luca Perris:

I dreamed of giving voice to the soft scent of vanilla flower other than the sweetest aroma typical of vanilla most commonly used in perfumery. Thanks to the exclusive raw materials of excellence, like this vanilla tahintesis, I was finally able to realize my olfactory painting.

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Reviews of Vanille de Tahiti Eau de Parfum by Perris Monte Carlo

Perris Monte Carlo does a good job being a proper niche perfume house that offers both perceived quality that is a cut above, and subject-based scents that focus on individual materials. Some may see this as too "cut and dry" niche that riffs closely to similar outfits like Jo Malone, but the stylistic interpretations of various subjects like lavender, rose, oud, and other darling materials in the perfume world are fairly unique to Perris Monte Carlo, which makes them worthwhile. The best part is also the price, which is much closer to what niche perfumes used to be until brands like Clive Christian and Creed taught the rest of the niche market that being affluent enough to pay the price of an HD television to the price of gold per ounce was what being into niche perfume is really about, rather than enjoyment of an alternative to the mainstream. With Vanille de Tahiti (2020), Perris seeks to do something uncommon with the subject of vanilla: focus on the flower rather than the distilled ingredient often used in cooking or in perfumery. In this endeavor, I think Perris has succeeded, and I do like what I found here in Vanille de Tahiti.

The opening is soft and floral, as to be expected, with bergamot, musky ylang-ylang, and golden champaca magnolia. This golden floral opening doesn't immediately reward the wearer with anything resembling vanilla, but that's the fun of Vanille de Tahiti, as vanilla of the likes you might expect never actually materializes. Instead, the vanilla blossom which is claimed to be sourced from Tahiti is delicate and rather unrefined. You won't get thick sweetness or creamy confectionery vanilla like the vanillin stuffed into classics like Guerlain Shalimar (1925), but if I had to compare it, Vanille de Tahiti rather most resembles the flavor of vanilla bean ice cream or Jones Soda Co. vanilla cream soda, with just a touch of something resembling orange blossom in the mix. White musk, some form of creamy sandalwood proxy and a traditional spiced labdanum amber note finish this off, which reminds me a lot of mid-century feminine amber perfumes the likes of which Avon or Prince Matchabelli would sell, but it's nice. Wear time is over 10 hours and sillage throbs pretty constantly throughout, so using Vanille de Tahiti is a bit of a commitment unless you want to scrub and replace it later on. Best use is in spring, fall, or winter, as something casual with a semi-sweet candor. I think women will appreciate this more but anyone can really enjoy vanilla.

The price of about $195 for 100ml is right in that niche perfume sweet spot of sample first, but not in the realm of "I really need to hunt down a 95% full bottle at half-price on eBay" where aforementioned brands like Creed or Xerjoff tend to sit. In other words, this is reasonably priced at retail for something of this singular focus and quality. Yeah, nothing is 100% natural unless you're buying bedroom-made artisanal perfumes (or fighting scalpers to the punch on them I should say), but nothing in Vanille de Tahiti feels particularly synthetic to me, or at least the overall scent smells believable like designers used to in the 20th century. I guess it goes without saying that if you have an aversion to vanilla in perfume, this lighter and more floral take won't exactly change your mind, and if the cake frosting style you typically see is what you enjoy from a vanilla perfume, Vanille de Tahiti may not be in your ballpark of things to try either. But, all that stuff aside, if a reasonably high-quality floral vanilla fragrance that doesn't really smell like what anyone else is doing sounds like your cuppa, then get a carded sample from Perris Monte Carlo directly and go from there. Thumbs up.
Nov 5, 2020

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