Positive Reviews of Une Rose Chyprée 
Tauer (2009)


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Une Rose Chyprée by Tauer

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Reviews of Une Rose Chyprée by Tauer

I'm surprised that some people seem to think the rose is lost in this one. It's not at all, it just comes on after the initial burst of dark pinewoods, citrus and spice - it is very much like I'd imagine a Middle Eastern forest to smell. It stays dark and then the rose comes on very strong and oily. Finally, this starts to merge into a deep green patchouli accord. It's really quite amazing but this is one that ultimately I think I'd like to smell on a woman more than on me.

Cardinal and Nun by Egon Schiele 1912

Two of the most important things I have learned from reading (our very own) Jtd Jtd's magnificent articles on the rose chypre genre on Scent Hurdle are as follows:

1. Rose chypres are like snowflakes. Although the basic DNA is the same for each, the genetic variations from one to another are infinite in their potential number, thus ensuring that no two are exactly alike. This happy truth is down to both the infinite variations in tone that we perceive as being ‘rosy' and the unlimited number of ways in which one can move the three legs of the chypre stool (bergamot, labdanum, and moss) around. The sheer range of possible combinations is mind-boggling and reminds one of those films where the bank robbers are horrified to find a safe with a five-number combination lock, whereupon a narrator or a character will helpfully remind us that there are two billion different possible combinations.

2. The traditional affiliation between the rose and patchouli has ensured that the rose chypre genre has survived and thrived better in this oakmoss-free, post-IFRA world better than other types of chypre.

Testing Une Rose Chypree by Tauer has helped me crystallize a few thoughts of my own. First of all, although the number of combinations between the different tones of rose and the different positioning of the main chypre accords means that while Une Rose Chypree does technically fit into the category of chypre (seeing as it contains bergamot, labdanum, and moss), it does not feel or smell like a chypre to me. That makes me think that a perfume can meet all the technical preconditions for being classified as a chypre and still not actually smell like a chypre. To me, the chypre accord is an undefinable but completely recognizable accord, like a heat signature imprinted into the fabric of the fragrance. It is an abstraction, sure, but it is as unmistakable when you come across it as feeling around in the dark and suddenly coming across the face of a loved one. Ah, there you are, my love. I would have known you anywhere.

Une Rose Chypree, therefore, contains oakmoss, but lacks the mossy bitterness that gives true chypres their backbone. Ironically, a fragrance like Chanel's 31 Rue Cambon does not contain any moss at all, but still somehow manages to identify itself clearly, unmistakably, as a chypre. Therefore, we have come to a puzzling proposition: some nu-chypres smell more like chypres than true chypres with all three chypre legs correct and present.

Une Rose Chypree smells like a spicy oriental, almost a spice-soliflor (yes, we are making up terms now, and why not?) and is comfortably in the same family as Coco and Noir Epices by Malle. It is a citrus-rose pomander fragrance, resinous and dark, perfect for drawing your loved ones in for a kiss under the Christmas tree.

I've always had a bit of difficulty with the top notes of Une Rose Chypree, because it felt to me that any rose is subsumed completely by the pungent spices, herbs, and lemon. But once I let go of my idea of Une Rose Chypree as a chypre and started to think of it as a spice/pomander fragrance, to my surprise, I started to appreciate it more.

The opening is thick with hot cinnamon and clove, hot-spicy with bay leaves, and throat-catchingly green with geranium. But it is also strangely fizzy and sherbet-y, in that Andy Tauer way, ensuring that the dark spiciness is shot through with some light. Cinnamon and lemon fight it out with a nascent rose, and the rose loses. In fact, I only smell a general rosiness later on, in the heart notes, and even then I can only perceive it in the sillage and not on the skin. No matter. I have started to enjoy this for what it is, rather than worrying about where all the chypre pieces are fitting in. The far drydown is characterized by a resinous, almost bitter labdanum accord. All in all, this is a seductive, dark, intriguing fragrance that I enjoy quite a lot. Once I've let go of my preconceptions of this as a chypre.

Genre: Chypre

The name had me expecting a floral chypre with a rose heart, but that's not exactly what I'm smelling here. Instead, Une Rose Chyprée is a dark, sweet, and spicy floral-oriental with an especially deep, jammy rose note at its core. It reminds me very much of Nahéma, of Amouage's two rose-based Lyric scents, and by dint of conspicuous cinnamon (and clove?) notes, of Frederic Malle's Noir Epices as well. I'll take the perfumer's word for it that the basenotes include the chypre staples oakmoss and labdanum, but what I smell in there is mostly smoky vanillic amber.

Whether you consider Une Rose Chyprée a chypre or an oriental is of little account. What matters is the scent's smoldering, crepuscular beauty. The attempt to describe its qualities sends me scurrying after new words for “dark.” Yet for all its profundity, there is a paradoxical clarity to Une Rose Chyprée's structure. (A quality it again shares with Noir Epices.) In olfactory character it brings to mind the tolling of a deep, deep bell, or the entrancing velvety blue glow of the evening sky just before it goes completely black. I wouldn't wear it during the day, and certainly not in hot weather, but I think I'd have to pay attention to any woman wearing this scent in my presence. Une Rose Chyprée joins L'Air du Desert Marocain among my favorites from the Tauer line.

„Heavenly Roses, from the past.”
What a wonderful surprise this turned out to be! These are roses. Dark, heavily scented roses, from another era. Not the fragile dewy English Garden type rose, but more of a robust and sturdy type rose, that grew in gardens in far away places. Roses that have definite personality. Now, imagine a bunch of these gorgeous roses combined in a lovely bouquet with the highly scented mini carnation...a carnation that is scented like cinnamon), combined with some beautiful vanilla scented orchids. The greenery for this lovely bouquet would be clementine orange leaves, with a few bayleafs for added decoration. This is a flower bouquet made with love. Just like this superb fragrance, from the Tauer line. I was hesitant at first, to test this, as I wasn't really impressed with his other rose fragrance (Une Rose Vermeille). Which to my nose was more of a rosewater sweet fruity fragrance. But this is a different breed of rose! The dry down is simply wonderful...soft, yet distinct. It's almost like a lovely tune, playing in the background. The lasting power is great, and it has a very nice sillage..not overpowering, but again, very distinct and attractive. This is a real winner for me, and hope to be able to get a FB very soon! Thank you Mr. Tauer, for a glimpse into the past!

Dark, rich, and warm The first time I wore this, I seemed to pick out a huge amount of cinnamon, which distracted me from the rose notes. So I set the sample aside for a few days and today I'm trying it again.Excellent, warm, spicy opening with touches of citrus. Compelling. The heart notes unfolded rather quickly--almost alongside the head notes--and the rose is lovely and dark, very sensual. Any rose lover would swoon over these rose notes. The basenotes, a heady, resinous mixture of labdanum, oak moss, patchouli and vetiver, are rich and warm. I would call this a 2-stage development, not 3, because the opening and heart notes intermingle so quickly. This fragrance is warm and inviting (but also possesses a touch of "darkness" that makes it more interesting, like a slightly dangerous femme fatale) and is unlike any other rose fragrances I own. Sillage very good, longevity over 10 hours.What a perfume; here is another one for my wish list. I think any chypre lover would adore this.UPDATE: After several more wearings, I have to add that the cinnamon note IS strong, and if that note is a problem for you, better sample before purchase. Pros: Spicy rose, great longevityCons: Cinnamon note might be too strong for some body chemistries"

mmmmmmmhhhhhhh! Andy Tauer's scents just keep surprising me again and again. Une Rose Chypree is the 3rd rose I got from Andy. And again, it renders me speechless with surprise and admiration! It is sooooooo elegant and fresh without the "old-lady smell" a lot of rose fragrances now a days offer.
Sillage is not as strong as Une Rose Vermeille or Le Maroc Pour Elle but still very noticeable.
Tenacity is also a little bit weaker. The scent still stays vibrant on my skin for about 6 hours.
This is really recommendable :-)

Wow, is this stuff strong!

A beautiful floral (a very green rose) once one gets past the rather unpleasant spice top notes. This is a true scent for the brave and is guaranteed to get you noticed. Longevity and sillage are major in this one! As the drydown begins, the floral aspect starts to tone down, and I can see this as a unisex.

I would classify this as a chypre and not an oriental.

The oriental aspect of this is not evident to me and one must wait for the drydown--and it is very subtle.

A nice fragrance, but DO use in small doses as the sillage can be overwhelming for both you and bystanders. Apply with care.

The ghosts of all the old, bewitching Guerlains are to be found in Une Rose Chyprée, a pitch-perfect manifestation of pure sensuality. My initial reaction to it was to let out a gasp of astonishment and exclaim, "I don't think I've got enough noses with which to smell this." Yes, in simplistic terms, it's a rose, but then, a rose is a rose is a rose... Earthy and sparkling, this is a substance of gilt-edged richness, which also accomplishes the feat of remaining unabashedly unisex throughout its development.

Lovely lovely rose fragrance on a chypre base but seems oriental too. Romantic , beautiful rose. Quite tenacious. Deep gold colored liquid. Begins greenish rose, perhaps some geranium ,quite chypre like to start.Progresses quie a lot - vanilla is evident and a little incensey.

Glittering sherbet Nahéma-ish rose (it's the bergamot as does it) caters to my weakness for sparkle. Has a clementine edge so twinkly it will probably turn out in the end to be a Horrid Paedophile or maybe a daytime TV presenter or both. Very fey and all the better for that, it is regrettably overtaken by dough in mid-career but that's often the way with svelte youngsters and is only a passing phase here. A rose in kid gloves powdered with dress-maker's chalk, I really must stop reading Lorca. The dry-down is more through warm berries/cola than chypre, moves on into sweetened, frail woods and incense (a shade of Sequoia, say, or even the sugars of CdG2), what the impeccable Vibert calls “mostly smoky vanillic amber”.

Well, I've had to revise this review sooner than expected...! A few more wearings have given me an altogether different impression than I first had.The top notes are a rather heavy, opaque citrus-geranium-rose, the accord reminding me strongly of palmarosa. There is something dark and oriental that seems to weigh down the top. The citrus notes are not of the effervescent cologne variety, and a head-to-toe darkness defines the fragrance. In the drydown, a rich naturalistic rose and geranium seem to merge with the smoky, syrupy amber note some have dubbed the "Tauerade", together with a spicy side that lingers on the edge of identification There is some moss in the base, but its not really detectable as an individual presence, rather it's a matte background on which the fragrance is layered on top of. Those familiar with the older Caron and Guerlain parfums will recognize the "feel". That being said, this is as much an oriental as a chypre, if not more.On my skin, this acts very much like a parfum - great longevity; weak sillage. In fact, a little too weak for me, as it stays a skin scent after the first few hours.Chypre Rose is easily my favorite Tauer creation, and I think its also his most complex and interesting fragrance to date. I see a steady evolution from the rather simple and brash Le Maroc, to the subtler and more well rounded Incense Rose, to this, a very refined and multifaceted treatment of the note.

I tried this yesterday, and I'm smitten. This is a comfort scent for sure. It is a gourmand to me, but not in the usual sense. You wouldn't actually want to EAT this, but it does make me think of chai, or vanilla steamers. Main notes are cinnamon, vanilla, and rose, incense base. Rose is almost in the background, despite the name. This is a fall/winter scent, I think, and yet I was very happy to be wearing it on a 90 degree day in July. I felt like someone had slipped me a feel-good drug, and I wanted to share it with everyone I came in contact with. I wanted to thrust my wrists under the noses of passersby, as it seemed selfish to hoard it. Wonderful stuff. Lasting power, great of course, although not as tenacious as LADDM. Amount of sillage, just right I think. Projects a wonderful sense of well-being. Lovely aura. In fact, it was the aura I enjoyed the most--I just kept smelling this gorgeous scent all around me, didn't feel the need to huff off my wrists.

Une Rose Chypree is gorgeous, and very difficult to describe.There is so much going on that it is hard to capture, and yet the sum total of the olfactory experience is a serene study in elegance.The only way I can think of to effectively describe Une Rose Chypree is to imagine a bunch of roses surrounded by other things that impact on them. The roses are always at centre stage, but each rose has taken on some of the characteristics of whatever nestles alongside it outside of the bunch of roses.The first rose one encounters has cinnamon and bay nestled beside it, and it is a spicy rose. This smell is addictive.After this comes a lush, juicy rose that has been in contact with the Clementine and the rest of the citrus. I would like to bite this rose to see how moist it is.Following this is a smouldering rose, which is both hot and green from coming into contact with the geranium.These three roses make up the top of the fragrance, but none of them disappear as the fragrance develops.These first three roses have a sort of translucence about them, which makes it easy for them to mingle and meld in endless permutations.Below these roses are far deeper and darker roses: there is an earthy rose that has been in contact with the patchouli and oak moss, a leathery rose that comes and goes, and a heartbreakingly beautiful honeyed rose that has absorbed lots of vanilla along with a little bit of everything else.The translucent roses play together with the deeper and darker roses in perfect harmony, and the way they relate to each other changes with temperature and time.You have to try this one!

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