Ummagumma
Fzotic (Bruno Fazzolari) (2017)

Basically a more wearable version of Tobacco Oud with cacao instead of the "oud" accord. And just like Tobacco Oud, this one is mostly labdanum, benzoin, and incense while Tobacco is mostly a circulating nuisance in the background. Not really an original concept, but then again, not many can recreate Ford's interpretation of Tobacco. This one, however, makes an excellent contender and is overall well done.

The opening is a very heavy resinous perfumey smell that I didn't ove, but the dry down is a gorgeous incense blend. Frankincense and Myrrh are very prevalent in their resin forms, with a wood backing and the tiniest hint of the dread aroma chemical Screamwood (also sometimes called Ambertonic or Amberwood. It smells like rubbing alcohol to me.) Overall, a great rich, heavy incense vibe.

Superior patchouli, with plenty of action in the transitions to keep it very interesting. It all "flows" perfectly from Top to Base, over the course of many hours.

More resin-y than most in this general area, so you may want to sample first. But if you're a fan of Le Lebo's Patchouli 24, then you may not need to sample. This is superior in every way, in my opinion. And I'm a big fan of Patch 24.

9.5/10 for me, 1.0/10 for my wife, an eternal tragedy....

Opens with a short-lived blast of "Christmas candle" that suggests a spiced gourmand, but really this settles into a woody, sticky blend of tobacco and incense. Gorgeous stuff, really.

Of the two FZOTIC offerings I've sampled (Vetiverissimo, Ummagumma), both seem to me to be reimaginings of classic mainstream frags.

In my mind, Fazzolari is not only reinterpreting these, but "doing them right," through a combination of expert mixing and use of ingredients of a strikingly superior quality to the original.

I was surprised not to see Bvlgari Black mentioned here, as Ummagumma is the ideal self of Bvlgari Black -- the tonka note is both more intense here (vegetal, flanked by the vanilla as opposed to ) and better balanced (the chocolate is dry as a bone, which along with the woods, saffron, and incense, corrects Black's cloying sweetness).

The effect is an unmistakeable "Bvlgari Black accord." You'll probably trick those around you into thinking you're wearing Black, except you'll smell better than that, and Ummagumma performs much better.

Performance: 6/10
Sillage: 4/10
Composition: 9/10

I smell mostly sweet, boozy wood, not the gourmand I'd expect from the chocolate. I like it - it goes on boozy, like immortelle dusted with cinnamon and flanked with citrus. The chocolate combines with a coffee note to smell roasted and woody.

Given time, the woods and incense from the base come into focus and add complexity and depth.

I like the balance here. This could have been an immortelle bomb or a gourmand mess, but it comes out perfect. Thumbs up.