Tweed
Fine Fragrances & Cosmetics (1924)

Like Shalimar, Chanel No.22 and other greats, the composition of Vintage Tweed is so pure and exact, it renders the fiction of perfume invisible and makes it feel not as a wear but as an identity that you take over or decide to cohabitate. This beleaguered scent has been through a variety of reformulations.

At first spray I get the aldehyde and bergamot. People who are not into smelling vintage perfumes or interested in experiencing aldehydes can pass waves arm out window. The gorgeous opening followed closely by a powerful interplay of exquisite floral absolutes comprising Rose, Jasmine, ylang ylang, geranium. All of these elements rest on a supporting base of cool Vetyver, Sandalwood, benzoin, and oakmoss. Tweed's most striking feature is its huge vintage oakmoss note, that addictive, crepuscular basenote that doesn't smell like anything else found on the market today.

It simply makes you feel sexy, you feel classy, like you are wearing a black sleeveless dress, showing enough cleavage to inspire a friend to join you in a passionate rendezvous. It's not a jeans and t-shirt fragrance. I can picture the screen goddesses of the golden era of Hollywood... The likes of, Ava Gardner, Rita Hayworth wearing this. If your into Cabochard - this middle ground grassy classic is for you.

Feminine? Pfft!
Genderless to my nose.
Boozy Oriental with Woody Chypre overtones.
It's Floral heart Jasmine, Ylang and Blossom is blended so perfectly into a remarkable resinous base that at times it has me forgetting it's structured as Chypre. Moss, Dusty Patch, Vetiver and Bergamot and the resulting Savon are the tell.
Wood? Oh yes! Sandalwood butters it all and draws it back to to a spicy Oriental.
I, absolutely, Love, this scent.
The depth and dimension of overall accord rings the little bells of pleasure in my brain.
I will own this soon.

From a Lanier Nip that I expect is the Lentheric.

I am a complete novice at this, please keep that in mind. I wanted to explore vintage scents, so I started by reading basenotes member reviews, which are so beautifully written, just wonderful. So many distinct voices, all delicious.

I loved the Tweed reviews, and then I found online a beautiful 4 oz. pinch waist bottle of Vintage Tweed Cologne by Lenthéric, almost full to the brim. I took a chance, bought it, and lucky me ... as after the first overwhelming hit of alcohol, it calmed down and I found myself lifting my wrist over and over to catch the scent, which to me is beautiful.

My bottle is quite old, and I don't know what the cologne was like young, but it was quite strong at first, not subtle, very sweet, and sharp, though it calmed down almost immediately. I got a peppery spice, a fading bit of celery, then cedar and cinnamon, and lady-like sachet scent over all, then suddenly it's an open cabin doorway, with a cedar fire inside, outside, it's just rained, and through the door, the forest reaches out of the dusk toward a figure sitting by the fire, drying rain washed hair. It's all that. I can't believe this is my first experience with this treasure.

I would love Tweed on a man, it's a'Woodland God/Goddess' scent.

Lenthéric : Prim aldehydic muguet-rosy green chypre.

***

A delightful opening where cinnamon blends beautifully with bergamot and geranium - simple beauty! The traditional drydown - jasmine, lavender and ylang-ylang is also very well done. Vanilla and patchouli provide a good finale of this symphony of a scent.

It is all quite classic in the choice of constituent notes but it is well blended, convincing in its structure, with good sillage and projection. The longevity on my skin stands at
an extraordinary twelve hours. 3.5/5

A bright, very powdery, somewhat sweet fougere. Feminine in design.
Cheerful, not profound. Quietly satisfying if you like this style (rather grandmotherly).
Nothing to offend here.