Reviews of Tubéreuse Criminelle 
Serge Lutens (1998)

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Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens

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Reviews of Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens

There are 48 reviews of Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens.


The first 15-20 minutes are dominated by a vigorous camphor note which makes for a bold opening, but after that the tuberose takes the lead. It's not a basic tuberose soliflore as it has much going on besides it and it's what makes it stand from the crowd. The menthol note, which also balances the sweetness, runs right next to the tuberose the whole time as a supporter together with the spices, the jasmine and other stuff that I can't pinpoint but work so well together. I think it's quite complex for a tuberose scent and it's masterfully blended.


is a 2-stage perfume. The first stage almost burns the nostrils, in the foreground it feels like a burning incense , as if it were gasoline. a great smell because it is blended with flowers, cloves and styrax. a smell of flowered asphalt. fantastic. in my opinion, the camphor is also present in a massive way. all this makes it a masculine, dark, gothic perfume. amazing. vote 10/10 the ugly part comes after half an hour when the scent unfortunately turns into a very feminine tuberous strong.I would buy it equally, but I must first smell une voix noir and de profundis and then decide what to buy.vote 8/10.



will follow another 2 reviews !!!


As others have said, Tubereuse Criminelle opens with a surprising mentholated accord - but I find it hypnotic instead of off-putting, which is surprising because I don't generally like minty scents. I feel pulled by the opening, wanting to see where it leads.

As TR develops, the lovely tuberose and jasmine make their appearance (though the menthol or wintergreen undertone persists, in a muted but steady way). The floral notes are neither sweet nor overwhelming, surprisingly gentle for a fragrance with such a formidable reputation.

Alas, TR has minimal longevity and sillage for me - it's pretty much gone in four hours. But I love it while it lasts, and this has become one of my favorite tuberose fragrances.


A refreshing blast of wintergreen - those pink Canada mints we seniors used to eat as children. Slowly the tuberose emerges from the minty mist, but it is a subdued tuberose, a quiet tuberose, although up to now I hadn't thought that was possible. The jasmine seems to restrain the beast and rein it in.

It floats over musk and vanilla with a hint of nutmeg for the remainder of the dry down. Although Turin found this to be the Ethel Merman of scents, I do not. I love tuberose and find this to be refreshingly tame, one a guy could actually get away with wearing in public.

A surprise for me and a welcome one.


This little creation opens with a most lovely wintergreen atop the white floral bouquet. Alas, my favorite part of TC recedes to the backstage within ten minutes in order to clear the stage for the obvious starlet. While not being particularly fond of tuberose itself I will readily admit that this is a well-made fragrance which exemplifies the facets of the natural plant; it's just a little bit like showing your favorite band's B-sides to someone who has only ever heard their radio singles.


After trying just about every tuberose perfume out there searching for the one that most represents what the living flower smells like in the evening as the fragrance intensifies and this one truly does. I read over and over all the comments about the camphor and gasoline or wintergreen opening but I do not fully agree with the harsh criticism. I will say that for the first 10-15 minutes there are some intense opening notes that are intense but I love how they create a huge sensation and then as it dries down the tuberose emerges and soon you have a tuberose that is a warm, creamy, heavy tuberose that is very true to the living flower. Yes, there is a camphor-wintergreen salicylate note, but this is an important significant part of the scent profile of natural tuberose and is one of the things that makes it so distinctly different from the fragrance of gardenia, jasmine, and all the other heady white flowers. This perfume lasts a nice long time and the sillage is just right. Like all Serge Lutens perfumes it is a perfect fragrance for both women and men as it is simply a soliflore and not a sickly sweet white floral nightmare. Together with S.L. Fleurs de Cironnier, much of my summer fragrance needs are covered.


TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE is a boldly creative triumph of ingenuity that could only come from SERGE LUTENS.it is the scent of a modern woman who apprecites the elegance of style of the past,for a modern heiress who knows how to play with her sensual aroma.an masterpiece that combines strenght and character. sophisticated,spicy, voluptuous,floral, powerful,confident, gorgeous,glamorous, contagious and unique.

A strong and luxurious bouquet of jasmine,tuberose and orange blossom is warmed with nutmeg and clove, held captivate in a deep and sophisticated blend of vanilla and musk,that makes a fragrance of seduction and evokes rigour and passion.the scent unveils a new facet of tuberose erotic decadence. anyway if you are looking for something different,this perfume don't disappoint you.


Genre: Floral

The opening so often described as "gasoline" or "rubber" seems to me a strong dose of eucalyptus, wintergreen, camphor, or menthol. It's cool, sharp, and bracing, like a good slap in the face with a frosty mitten. Pairing these sinus-clearing top notes with the voluptuous sweetness of tuberose is a stroke of genius - perhaps even the cleverest thing Sheldrake has done.

On its own or in combination with other white flowers, tuberose can be positively oppressive. Cut it with clear camphor, and it's outright refreshing. Unisex, too, as far as I'm concerned. Tubéreuse Criminelle wears closer to the skin than some other tuberose scents, with moderate sillage and projection. It lasts a solid six hours on my skin, with a creamy vanillic drydown. The persistent cool menthol notes make this the first tuberose scent I turn to in hot weather.

Tubéreuse Criminelle is not the same kind of room-filling diva as Fracas, nor does it share the soft, unearthly luminosity of Carnal Flower. It is very much its own animal. It's surely not for everyone, and it probably takes some nerve to wear, but if you can get into its peculiar groove the rewards are rich.


Pharmaceutical floral for alpha males!


Tuberose - lots of thoseThe opening is a bit sharp, nigh tyre-rubbery with orange blossom, but soon the almighty, dark and foggy tuberose takes over, only a little bit brightened up by glimpses of a nice hyacinth shining through. Clove and nutmeg give it death and spice, and styrax and a dark musk a certain smokiness. Great silage and projection, with a criminally good longevity of over eight hours. One of Mr Sheldrake's most convincing offences.


A blast of contradiction to my nose and my thoughts Well when I first came to Tuberose Criminelle I was just shocked by the contrasts of its opening, the camphor and nutmeg and someking of "frosted" orange blossom is just superb and this disorienting and a-la-coturier touch basically is a carrier to the super comfortable heart of tubereuse and jasmine which is what I would call cute and nice and cocooning. What I love the most about Tubereuse criminelle is that you really can't relate this to all those others tubereuse out there, especially to Fracas, this is a totally different take that manage to almost risks to betray its name because it makes you forget for a while about the tubereuse and the fragrance, and just takes you deep into the concept behind it. This is like a Zaha Adid architecture, is not about the building, is about the concept. Great intellectual effort Serge and Sheldrake. Pros: Great "cultural" effort behind this project, a super modern take on tubereuse even after almost 15 years from its launchCons: Somehow even if it's a pretty noticeable fragrance,Low longevity: it lasts from three to four hours which is not what you expect from your tuberose


I love the opening blast of wintergreen which then settles into a fab tuberose. I'm not a fan of rose perfumes and although knowing tuberose was different, had avoided it up till now! I'm in love! Interesting so is my 5 year old daughter who declares it's her favourite!
Good perfume - and good staying power


The Tubereuse Criminelle starts off with a blast of winter green and then turns rather sweet before it winds down to the core scent which is similar to Fleurs d'Oranger by Serge Lutens. I love FdO so this is good news for me, though I would have hoped that TC would be more unique. It has good projection and lasts long.

I prefer wearing the freshness of FdO when moving around in the city and then save the sweetness of TC for evenings at home where I sit in my tropical garden sipping coffee, surrounded by treejasmine, frangipani and champaca trees.





l get the "petrochemical" opening described by so many others here, but to my nose it's not quite gasoline, or rubber, or disinfectant, or menthol, but strongly wintergreen. lt's also not as overpowering as l was expecting. This subsides over the first thirty minutes, & it settles into a pretty white floral with just a hint of a dark undercurrent. ln the heart l get lily, jasmine & orange blossom, but no tuberose at all! There's something cold about this fragrance; not the "florist's fridge" coolness of Carnal Flower, but something else... lt also lacks the brash seductiveness that l love about Fracas. l expected a Big White Floral on steroids, but this is a rather quiet fragrance, & like other Lutens l've tried, severely lacking in projection. Three hours in it fades to a sweetish, slightly leafy vanilla skin scent, & six hours after application it's barely detectable.
l'm happy l got to try this, but for me it doesn't come close to my favourite tuberoses that l've already mentioned here. My search for "my" tuberose is already complete.


I like this insane, really it's not criminal this is just insanity in a bottle. But a little bit of crazy keeps things fun and interesting. The same applied to the treatment of Tuberose. In general I like tuberose and what various perfumers do with it. But, sometimes you get a bit bored of the buttery quality that tuberose scents can have. It all becomes more of the same.

This tuberose doesn't become buttery and think it has to do with the shock to your sense opening. The menthol freshes the whole thing up and prevents the tuberose to become that nice buttery fragrance that you find so often. No it stays cold, distant and ethereal.


Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens - I own and enjoy this composition which mirrors a phoenix, the tuberose, rising out of a flood of camphoraceous petrol, to reveal its dark and sensuous qualities, magically subduing those that care to inhale.


first contact- menthol, toilet bowl cleaner, fake flowers- cannot get my nose far enough away from my wrists
after 10 min- lilacs and tuberose on me, smells like a very strong yankee candle version of those scents
after 30 min- creamier, deeper, much nicer (although my spouse liked it better at 10 min)
after 1 hr- starting to get a bit shrill. Not sure how to describe this. Maybe I'm just getting sick of it.
after 3 hrs- excellent longevity, still very much a presence, but more green and likable now. If it started and ended like this I'd get a whole bottle.

Agree with everyone else the opening is strong, almost headache inducing for me, but the mellow version that follows is wearable by anyone who likes Tuberose. This will never be one of my favorites, but I'll indulge in the sample now and again just to revisit the scent.


As much as I love challenging fragrances, it took me several tests to completely get Tubereuse Criminelle. The first time I tried it (on paper) I immediately dismissed it as it was too camphoraceous, too thick and even a tad too loud. I decided it was not for me but, while visiting a major department store a few monthes later, I got a mouillette from an SA and, again, it immediately striked as too mentholated to my taste. The third and final time I got in contact with Tbereuse Criminelle was during a visit at Palais Royal in Paris where, after a purchase, I got a bunch of assorted Lutens samples including this one. When I got back home, I decided to give TC a test on skin and, with my suprise, something finally clicked.

Yes, the fragrance is still pretty thick and loud but there's something perversely fascinating in it. The opening mentholated accord is paired to a rubbery note and an overall vibe of turned flowers. There's something extremely wrong with Tubereuse Criminelle. So wrong to cross the border of mere ugliness and go far beyond towards something completely compelling. The fragrance slowly takes form and morphes into a magnificent floral concoction where tuberose is surely the main star but it's very well blended with other florals to create an extremely elegant composition. Surely not for everybody and still one of those fragrances that need to be properly tested before coming with a final virdict but, with some passion and patience, you will discover one of the closest thing to a masterpiece.

If we could compare fragrances to music, Tubereuse Criminelle would definitely be the most distant thing from pop-music.

Together with ISM and MKK, at the top of my favorite Lutens.


This is certainly a divisive fragrance, but I'm happy enough to be on my side of the divide because it means I'm not likely to meet another woman wearing it. I LOVE it: I love the opening blast that repulses so many, I love the unfolding of it, and I love its surprisingly whispery drydown. The beginning is wintergreen on me: Sweet, dark, icy. . Then the tuberose really unleashes its seductive glory, and I'm reliving tropical nights. Truly unique for a fragrance is that it's cold and hot at the same time.


One of the strangest openings out there...


Thumbs up AFTER a start of pure Pepto-Bismol. Is what follows worth that being sucker punched up front with a whole load of what-the-hell? Yes, albeit an odd introduction on the order of Petruchio meets Kate, leaving you to wonder just who was tamed after all?

But, oh, that after all. Buttered tropical flowers. To me this phase is a dead ringer for Tuvaché Jungle Gardenia, so I'll put up with that perverse start to get there, relieved to find what I want for once in a fragrance still in production.


Much has been said already about the opening of Tubereuse Criminelle.
In my view there are two ways to interpret the opening of TC. There is something of camphor, menthol, wintergreen, eucalyptus. I have seen it said that it smells like Dettol or TCP. I think that it is closest to Germolene. If you are familiar with Germolene you are with me, if not, stick with a disinfectant smell.

Or is it.....is it really? There is another way to interpret this extraordinary opening. Have you ever had a pot of hyacinth bulbs in your house, or in your garden, a vase of longiflora lillies maybe, some jasmine? Have you ever smelled them when they are at their most redolent? I once had a pot of tiny narcissi which filled a whole room with a heady, almost overwhelming, fragrance. At their most fragrant stage these flowers are approaching the boundary of what could be considered to be pleasantly floral. On the breeze they are intoxicatingly lovely. Close up they are pungent and challenging. We can read the opening of Tubereuse Criminelle in this way. It is very clever.

Sugandaraja describes it as having "a lively cooling sharpness". Yes, that is what I experience, not gasoline or rubber. The first time I smelled it I almost recoiled in surprise. Very soon, I came to crave it.

I know that many of you will be thinking Indoles, why hasn't she mentioned indoles? Well, I have, but just not by name. I don't like the association of indoles and feces. There is no fecal aspect to this fragrance. When the flowers come they are stunning. They are not pretty flowers. A friend of mine swears that at night, longiflora lillies, cut and in vases, turn their heads and spit. Yes, these flowers are of that ilk. Intoxicating, narcotic, but not stodgy or overbearing like some Tuberose fragrances are. They are cut with that cooling menthol effect. The mid development and the drydown are very closely intermingled. I have never smelled a real Tuberose. I can only tell you that TC smells something like a hyper realistic bouquet of hyacinth, jasmine, lily, gardenia, perhaps even a little carnation, with some ultraviolet light thrown in. But then, finally, as if they have spent themselves, a somehow appropriate, softer, creamier, floral and vanillic ending brings the show to a much quieter close.


After waiting two weeks for a partial bell jar from TPC, I just got it today. I had a set of the wax testers from SL and was quite surprised at the difference. At the first blast of wintergreen, I thought there must be some mistake. I'd heard about the rubber tire, but this was a poke in the nose. Ten minutes later and I am in love. It is ethereal. This is much nicer than Carnal Flower. I just ordered Cuir Mauresque (not from TPC- I'm too old to wait that long again) based on the wax samples and I hope that there isn't a similar shock at opening. I think the wax samples lose the lighter, more volatile aspects of a perfume but are true for the dry down.

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