Trussardi is another old Italian leather maker-turned-designer just like Gucci and has throughout the years diversified into ready-to-wear clothing, jeans and perfumes. By 1970 Nicola Trussardi had taken over the family operation started by his grandfather Dante in 1911, with the company still family owned and administrated as of the date of this review, and chose to launch the perfume arm in the 1980. Trussardi Uomo (1983) came to be a few years later, penned by a young Beatrice Piquet who is perhaps best known to guys as the nose behind both Jil Sander Sun Men (2002) and the stellar L'Instant de Guerlain Homme (2004). Perfumes for all genders were knee-deep in "powerhouse" mode by the mid 1980's, and Trussardi Uomo was no exception, being positively stuffed to the collar with tons of blended potency, to the point this can actually make you nose blind if given too large a dose all at once, something typically reserved for modern-day "beastmode" fragrances. Trussardi Uomo is an oriental chypre at its core, and crosses lines with many other such perfumes of the time period, making it a bit redundant to the collector seeking variety from the time period, but a must-have for those addicted to all things potent from the 80's. Trussardi Uomo sits in the middle of a Satanic pentagram of 80's might, or put in a less-scary way, predicts branching themes that would follow it into the later years of the decade by combining them into one fragrance before each of them technically existed. That's quite a feat I'd say, even if it may not have been on purpose.
The opening is an aldehydic blast of citrus, majoram, spices, and sage rounded with sweet lavender. Before too long, we get a deep carnation note which will automatically date this for guys born just before the 21st century and associating such smells with their dads or grandads, but it's the primary heart note of Trussardi Uomo. A honeyed benzoin geranium and rose note similar to the later Boss/Boss Number One (1985) shows up at this stage, but Trussardi Uomo doesn't go the full animalic route with civet, instead choosing to saddle a tobacco note with a bit of castoreum leather into the base. Here we see patchouli in a minor role supporting the honeyed benzoin for resinous smoothness, while oakmoss and labdanum give us the chypre effect and a slight dot of vetiver add in some smoke to buttress the tobacco vibe in the heart. From here on out it becomes a boxing match between the dandy floral elements which remind me of the later Salvador Dali pour Homme (1987) and the macho man tobacco incense smokey leather elements which recall a bit of Roger & Gallet Open (1985). The floral aspects mixing with the tobacco also recall the end-of-decade Montana Parfum d'Homme (1989), which is a huge compliment, while the resinous patchouli feeling could draw a parallel to Giorgio Beverly Hills for Men (1984). Wear time is all day for something this powerful, and projection isn't even something to worry about. Instead, worry about how far away people have to stand in order to avoid smelling you. Best use is honestly an 80's night at your local club, since this is clubber strength, and in cooler months where the chill air can take some of the edge off the wall of smell this provides.
Such a strutting example of 80's wrecking-ball perfumery must certainly be discontinued right? Yup, say no more, as this has been put to pasture since 2011 when the stuff was re-orchestrated completely and re-released in a different bottle. The old Trussardi Uomo bottle was designed by Nicola Trussardi himself, and has crocodile leather vibes that today would be politically insensitive since it's basically flaunting the exploitation of the environment in the name of high fashion, but the bottle is really the least of your worries. Finding this may be difficult, and who knows what it will likely cost, but only the hardcore collector looking to create a museum of their wardrobe really need waste the time or copious coin on a bottle, since Trussardi Uomo really just smells like a suicide slushie of all the popular 80's flavors they already own combined into one. The neat thing about Trussardi Uomo is it came before a lot of the stuff that it smells like, so Beatrice Piquet was either a genius or had a happy accident with stuffing so many wonderfully baroque things into this pretty little black bottle. Selective Beauty would pick up the rights to produce Trussardi fragrances into the 90's (onetime owners of the Claude Montana license), and they'd really pimp the living Hell out of the name with a multitudinous miasma of mediocre masculine releases (Batman), so this is still the only men's scent that really gets any talk. What makes it worse is most of these lackluster things except the newest ones are also discontinued and sell for way too much money online, giving Trussardi a "house of unicorns" vibe similar to Jean Patou and Balenciaga. Thumbs up.
A powerhouse Italian men's cologne that is a timewarp to the heart of the 1980's. It lies in the aromatic spicy family of fragrances.
What makes my bottle feel special is that I had recently purchased the vintage version from an Italian vendor online for a decent price! :-) This comes with the gold greyhound logo and gold bottle cap on a beautiful leather-covered bottle. It's like unearthing a perfectly frozen person preserved for the past 30 plus years!
Trussardi Uomo (original) starts with a loud citrus and spice hit, very reminiscent of Polo (green) by Ralph Lauren, of Havana by Aramis (though a bit simpler and less chaotic) and of Quorum by Puig (albeit cleaner and better formulated). It is bright, bold and brash, hearkening to the decade of excess from which it originated. This initial brightness tells you immediately that Trussardi Uomo is about business, unashamed and ready to go toe to toe with its peers in whatever setting (i.e. evening formal or casual or party scenarios).
Over time, Trussardi Uomo settles into a mellower, still quite aromatic spicy, character where subtle notes of leather and tobacco start to appear. Jasmine mixes with oakmoss, nutmeg and pimento to continue the thick spicy sensation present in uber amounts on the opening. The base seeps in with a medium strength incense interplaying with a slight smoothing sensation of patchouli and sandalwood. Cedar is nested deeply in there to prolong Trussardi Uomo's sensational brashness.
As a 40-something scent collector, I see myself sporting Trussardi Uomo (original) once in a blue moon for evening outings where I want to communicate an old-school, bold aura among others of near-age. Given its heritage, I cannot see millenials and beyond automatically enjoying this cologne unless they have a nostalgic spirit that can willingly accomodate and appreciate such a wild ride (they're out there!).
I haven't tried the reformulated version, and I will withhold judgment until I try it and assess it on its own merits (versus "aw, this is not like the original, and I don't like it for that reason alone").
Bravo, Trussardi, for having created the 1983 legend!
Some word association with Trussardi Uomo: bold, dirty, raunchy, and sex.
This is definitely an '80s fragrance and if you're a younger guy, you run the risk of drawing too much attention to yourself. There's a lot of testosterone behind this fragrance, so if you're even a little self-conscious, you're going to come across like a try hard. This cologne is probably safer for the 40+ crowd. However, it's far from an "old man" fragrance. It's not like Brut, Grey Flannel, or even Kouros. Trussardi Uomo reeks of virility.
The spray goes on thick, and you'll either be a Don Juan or a Disco Stu. As the top notes fade, the raunchiness kicks in. Then it gets a little dirty about an hour or two in. For me this is a bit of a rough patch, and it begins to remind of current Polo green's dry down, or even Preferred Stock's. This is when the dirtiness becomes most pronounced, but unlike the other colognes I mentioned, there's other pleasant notes to keep things afloat. When it gets to it's final dry down stage the dirtiness leaves and you're rewarded with this this really smooth-yet-strong, sexy scent.
This is probably one of thee best final dry down stages I've yet to experience in a men's fragrance. It even smells more refreshing than its top notes, when usually the reverse is true.
I've been wearing this now for 9 hours now and I can still smell it on my wrist and it's great!
This is a classic, and an '80s masterpiece. But remember, there's no middle ground wearing this. You either succeed or fail with it.
The opening of Trussardi Uomo immediately reminds me of Van Cleef and Arpels pour Homme, but within minutes it joins the group I find similar smelling of Salvador Dali pour Homme, Montana Parfum d'Homme and/or Montana pour Homme, and Francesco Smalto pour Homme. From this group, I think I may only like the Smalto more than this one. The Trusssardi is a strong entry.