One of Those (2013)

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Sulphur by One of Those

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About Sulphur by One of Those

People & Companies

One of Those
Fragrance House
Original House

Sulphur is a shared scent launched in 2013 by One of Those

Fragrance notes.

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

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Reviews of Sulphur by One of Those

There are 6 reviews of Sulphur by One of Those.

Somehow a classic woody-metallic masculine with hints of wool cloth, mothballs, CdG Synthetic series leftovers and the general smell of a chemistry classroom., the latter being the keystone that keeps everything balanced.
Unfortunately I'm not so nostalgic or enthusiastic about school chemistry. Surprisingly so, as my father used to be a chemistry teacher. But it doesn't work even as a memory scent; it's too grey. It's the general smell in the middle of all the cabinets; for a concept like this I'd really prefer the moment when you are much closer to the dangerous stuff.

This one tricked me. The top notes appear to be engaging, and there's quite an animalic whack that leads you to believe that this is going to be somewhat of a fun, risky ride. But really, it's just a lousy stab at cranking up iso butyl quinoline (a weird, pickled leather chemical) and getting away with it. This sort of abrasive herbal / citric / castoreum opening has been done better in Kinski, and after just a few minutes, Sulphur settles down into a relatively screechy and linear crisp citrusy thing that's really not that far removed from department store flanker stuff (just a tad grungier). Granted, it's working on mainstream appeal from the angle of artistic perfumery rather than mediocre industrial beauty product, but it's still nothing special. The worst part though, is what it becomes.

The vivid opening that gets your attention strikes me as a way to distract from what lies beneath. It's hard to distinguish the individual components, but the main chord here seems to be a lysol-esque pine against Febreeze citrus against something anonymously woody. When mixed together, this reads as a shrill, inoffensive “fresh” effect that's neither screamingly artificial, nor is it something recognizable in nature. It's quite loud at first, and gave me a bit of a headache, but then it tamed down somewhat just kind of buzzed. Imagine taking a fluorescent yellow marker to your skin–that image is sort of what this smelled like for me. The Kinski aspect is omnipresent, and if you've ever worn Kinski, you might find yourself scratching your head as to why they cited it so closely (although it's not a copy). But the sad thing about this scent is that after just a couple of hours, it all starts to fall apart and reveals a very pronounced and obvious Iso E Super that sticks around for the rest of the day.

While it's understandable that a scent like this–structured upon what are essentially shrill, thin notes–would require Iso E for backing, good taste would dictate that at least an attempt to veil the Iso E would be advisable. But it's left wide open–as if considered as a positive contribution. And this is why Sulphur feels dishonest to me: not only is it lifting from a preexisting idea (Kinski), it's doing it really poorly. It tells you it's one thing upfront, and then once it's got you hooked, it takes off running, leaving behind something entirely different. It's not *awful* by any means (and it's not nearly as bad as Blood Concept–but the cheesy gimmick and the lousy use of "quirky" aromachemicals certainly push it perilously close to that line), but for this price point, this scent should offer much more than what it does. To me, this one's a bit of a hack job.

Sulphur opens opens with a fresh slightly tart grapefruit and mild peppery angelica tandem before transitioning to its early heart. During the early heart the grapefruit and angelica remain briefly before giving way to a growing leathery castoreum and latex rubber-like costus starring tandem with cinnamon spice acting as key support. During the late dry-down a very natural smelling cedar takes over the focal role, mixing with remnants of the cinnamon, castoreum and costus that all remain, now in support. Projection is very good and longevity excellent to outstanding at over 12 hours on skin.

Sulphur is one of those scents that first impressions can prove quite deceptive. When first sprayed on paper for an early read all that stood out was "burnt tire rubber" and that was not a good sign. Indeed, even early when sprayed on skin as one sniffs their wrist up close to evaluate the composition it still comes off in similar fashion. It would be easy to see many dismissing the composition if that is the way the fragrance is solely evaluated. Where Sulphur begins to win the wearer over is in its sillage. When smelled from the scent trail perspective the nuances of the composition are revealed. What comes off as tire rubber up close, shows as smoky latex-like costus in the sillage flanked by dry hardcore leathery castoreum. That is surely a step in the right direction, but what really won *this* reviewer over was the cinnamon that completely makes the composition even though it never is the focus. The cinnamon balances the "bite" of the rubbery facets with additional support from some well-concealed ingredient in the heart adding just the slightest amount of sweetness to the mix. The dry-down is also quite pleasant smelling; as cedar is utilized quite well, melding perfectly with the sulfur-like asphalt remnants from the early heart. The bottom line is Sulphur is not the kind of composition that is super-easily likable, but if one gives this 3.5 star out of 5 "very good" rated composition a chance it may very well win you over. Recommended.

I must admit to being a sucker for a novel concept and this one seemed to be very intriguing!

It took me a few wears to 'get it'. When testing we may try hard to make comparisons to what has come before or fit a new scent into a particular genre or category. This proved impossible. I was just about to give up on this one and then realised I don't need to put it into any pre-existing category. Sulphur tends to transcend categorisation in such a simple way, it smells neither traditional nor modern, neither conventional nor challenging. It is what it is. The scent seems to be very true to the brief - quite an elemental smell; familiar and novel in equal measure.

I think this is one scent it is possible to review without mentioning a single note - this is because the notes aren't there to smell like themselves, they have been used as vehicles to deliver a certain feeling and atmosphere. This is an alchemy where the final result is far greater than a sum of its parts. A complex scent that seems so simple / elementary.

The opening is true to type. Thick, gaseous, stifling. The rich - almost boozy opening intoxicates the senses. It never quite feel like you're wearing the scent, it is as if you're surrounded by a dense gas. The smell novel yet somehow familiar.

The density soon clears and again, true to type, the smell is quite elementary: earthy and mineralic. Bringing to mind slightly the mineral/flinty feel of TDH, but where TDH is finely polished this is more raw and unadulterated. The overall feel is clean. Not in a citrus or soapy way, but, clean as in uncontaminated and sterile. The smell is like going in to a remote cave of rock that was formed by volcanic processes thousands of years ago with a smouldering of subterranean activity suggesting continuity with the distant past. Not a new smell just a smell that always was. This is clean but in a dark and unconventional way like the feeling after using coal-tar soap.

In sum - a fragrance that is very true to its conceptual brief. Novel but somehow reassuringly familiar. The apparent simplicity a result of complex alchemy. It may take a few samples to 'get it' or rather, not to worry about not getting it and enjoying it just for what it is. I like it a lot - just don't believe i'd wear it often. A great scent for people that don't want to be obviously wearing a scent. Edgy. Postmodern. If this is what Sulphur smells like I'd love to smell this houses take on Krypton or Plutonium

Sulphur did not disappoint my overanxious expectations for the new releases from a brand i'm utterly in love for. This is a spicy/aromatic fragrance somehow dark and mineral. Inhaling this decidedly interesting potion i'm in a second smitten by its resemblance with a bunch of aromas I perceive in a while inside as muffled in the olfactory memory without being able to root those up immediately outside. Few time later those olfactory conjurations emerge and i can shout....yes.....Ungaro III and Jacques Zolty by Jaques Zolty for a bunch of their nuances (frankly i detect also some Ulrich Lang's trace, some classic Marte Battistoni's spark and the Wall Street Bond's mineral, aqueous and herbal initial vibe). The UIII's nuances emerge in the dark barely floral (somewhat rosey) spiciness, in the classic chypre approach (cedarwood, vetiver, oakmoss) and in the aromatic/citric (somewhat bitter-citric in here a la Mr Marvellous Byredo or Bond New York Oud because of its initial fizziness), slightly boozy (gin type), presence (lavender, citrus, etc) while the Zolty's feel is aroused by the mineral (typically "Nu_besque"), slightly sulphureous, resinous (cypress resins) and almost minty vibe (apart the swirling musky, slightly dusty and woody feel plus the ambergris presence). Anyway UIII and Zolty are basically different in "personality" and evolution while Sulphur expresses surely an its own personal characterizing performance with a powerfully pungent, peppery, salty and spicy (strong cinnamon, black pepper, black angelica or cloves etc.) vibe sliding towards a sort of deep weird animalic/aromatic/leathery temperament (somewhat aromatic, cinnamon oriented and with an ambergris plain feel). This basic substance is almost strident, somewhat prickly, dusty, gasseous, mineral and weirdly leathery (or better rubbery), i would also underline a sort of musky/animalic undertone provided by costus, a succeeding ambergris and castoreum for sure. I like the "wet-air" feel that i smell in the animalic slightly rubbery and peppery muskiness. The note of grapefruit is mastering along the arid (thirsty, bitter and harsh) top notes and furthermore (at least in part) along the whole trip. The intense spiciness is stout for long, (just) barely receding along the dry down which is mossy/leathery and woody (i don't see just a sheer vetiver presence but mostly patchouli and cedarwood), slightly tamed (soothed) by hints of resinous balsams but still spicy/rosey and slightly aqueous/boozy (gin tonic type) because of the influencing note of grapefruit (it seems almost to detect the lavender/vodka/floral UIII's spiciness despite in here this feel is spicier, sharper, misty, possibly darker, not realisticaly boozy, far less floral and far more pungent). I detect the spicy, woody, floral and resinous Carbon's foundation but Sulphur is less floral/powdery and more aromatic/piquant to me. Yes, i catch throughout the Nu_be's typically restrained, hyperbaric and chilling out dose of "molecular/inebriating/anaesthetic holiness" with weird plastic, smoky, gingery and peppery/incensey "nuclear" sparks (and trust me friends if i write that in these waves i detect a sort of Basala's ghostly presence in the atmosphere, just a spark, a whisper and nothing else, a presence which is anyway more prominent in Mercury). I also see (mainly along the top notes, when the substance is still utterly dry) a CDG's peaceful conceptual "ambience" but the Nu_be's atmosphere is finally less aqueous/incensey (less rarefied or translucent) and more typically chaotic, mineral and piquant. Hypnotic mysticism frankly far more dark than yellow, probably more hellish and narcotic than quietly assertive. Another wonderful experimental stout Nu_be for us.
P.S= I've tested Kinski lately after Sulphur, effectively I see the connection but while Sulphur leans over the sharp citric/rubbery/sulphureous side Kinski performs (in an equally avantgarde way) a sort of denser (cannabis/moss) ozonic, floral and animalic olfactory weirdness with a sort of classic/stuffy chypre background (which coexists with the hyper modern approach). Sulphur is sharper, more angular and animalic in a different way while Kinski is sticky/spicy in a sweeter, slightly dissonant and mossier way. The Kinski patchouli is bolder and brasher while Sulphur is more elegant, introvert and moody.

My expectations on Sulphur were pretty high so I approached this fragrance with some trepidation...

The first thing that comes to mind is Kinski...and then, to a MUCH lesser extent, Chypre Palatin.

Nose tingling opening with a blast of angelica and grapefruit. The sulphuric vibe is definitely there. Sort of salty, pungent and unquestionably yellow in the chromatic scale. Costus and castoreum take over right away with their unmistakeable, warm musky, leathery / animalic, wet-hair presence. There's a *green thing* going on that made me immediately think about vetiver but it could honestly be a sort of sinergy between other elements to create this effect because it almost dissipates within the fragrance evolution. In this phase I think of Kinski. Kinski is definitely more centered around vetiver, bolder and more straight forward whereas Sulphur belongs more to the Comme Des Garcons type of aesthetic. It's unquestionably there and while it doesn't scream, it definitely strikes. The drydown is smoother, simple but very refined and extremely well blended. Cinnamon, resins and smooth woody notes bring the fragrance to a slightly more oriental territory while an unquestionable vetiver note remarks its presence in full force. Very pleasing, slightly twisted, sort of safer than the opening / middle phase but so enjoyable...

If I were to sum it up in a bunch of words, my impression is that it could be sort of an office-friendly version of Kinski. As much as it might sound disappointing, that's exactly the opposite. There's a sense of restraint to Sulphur (and to most of the other Nu_be deliveries) which I find incredibly compelling and successful. I can see myself wearing this on a regular basis. In this context, this will probably appeal more to Comme Des Garcons fans than, say, to those who are looking for a unapologetic and straight forward composition. Just lovely.

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