Sandalo
Lorenzo Villoresi (1995)

With Sandalo, Villoresi achieved with near perfection a true sandalwood without too much to detract from its truest qualities. Be that as it way, I do want to point out that his mastery of aromatics to lift a base note is quite impressive, and his usage of lavender, rosewood, neroli and citrus in the opening here takes what could be a very bass-heavy composition and diffuses the sandalwood itself quite remarkably.

Fascinatingly enough, there is a dry woodiness that also somehow feels creamy and balmy, especially as Sandalo dries into its heart. No matter what sandalwood materials were used, whether Mysore, Australian or others, a multitude of synth bases or accords, it somehow all feels honest and real (if that really makes sense). I think many folks have this idea of how sandalwood should smell or "feel" and may be a bit taken aback by this representation. I've smelled the wood itself along with the oils. This is one of the closest representations I've smelled. Is that important? Well, that depends on the person, but I do quite favor some realism now and then, and it's delivered here with aplomb.

The dry down is accompanied with resinous elements, extending the heart of sandalwood into the base beautifully, with the feeling over time being meditative and the more unctuous elements alighting into a warm powdery "your skin but better" scent. Overall, it's a wonderful development for sure.

Villoresi is extraordinarily talented in my humble opinion, deserving of much more respect.

From a sample of the vintage, provided by a generous Basenoter : I get a massive hit of cumin in the opening, which is not listed in the notes. Afterwards, a creamy sandalwood - very good quality; the real thing - along with rosewood and rose, which last until the scent fades, which is all too soon. Delightful but fleeting.

Dry, bitter sandalwood, tastefully composed from seemingly immaculate ingredients. Perhaps a bit too subdued for its own good.

A tale of two scents.

The first one, to lift a phrase from another review, is almost too lovely for a man. Rosewood, rose, lavender, trace neroli, and sandalwood? 4-6hrs, perhaps. A few steps from perfect and by itself I doubt I'd wear it much, honestly.

The second one is a nutty, creamy, sun-kissed, 2nd-skin type sandalwood that remains with just a slight memory of the first. It lasts and lasts. Perfect.

I place Santal Noble and Santalum on the top shelf, Sandalo is close.

Reflection BY Lucian Freud 1985

Mixed feelings after multiple wears. There was one from the Gap years ago that was almost identical to this formulation, which is a weak one. This is way too herbal and not enough depth, the Sandalwood in here is sterile.

3 hours longevity, max. The trace that lingers on your clothes the day after is however outstanding so I might it buy it again.

The opening blast shouts wood, neroli and lavender, resulting in a wood impression that is more on the brighter side, but nonetheless it is an intense, serious start. The drydown introduces a pleasant rose note, mildly sweet and of medium intensity, blending in nicely with the wood.

Now about the wood. Initially is is somewhat nonspecific on my skin, but in the drydown the sandal declares itself. Like all good sandalwoods it is discrete, not intrusive and not easy to catch. It is not of the same unparalleled quality as in Creed's Bois de Santal, is less intense than in Chanel's Bois des Îsles (the original vintage formulation), is less vivid than in Egoïste's Cologne Concentrée and - maybe mercifully for the sandalophile - lacks the cedar that is so often added in (Tam Dao, Le Labo), but it is a very pleasant and convincing specimen made of a high quality ingredient.

The patchouli that arises in the base is unusually soft and mild, and together with a fairly subtle musk tone blends in gently, avoiding an overpowering of the sandalwood, whose delicate structure is often overlooked in fragrances and overwhelmed - see Original Santal.

This is a very good sandalwood and a nice autumn scent. The performance is outstanding, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a superb fourteen hours of longevity. 3.5/5.

Wood and incense. Mysterious and elegant.

My least favorite villoresi. Its linear and quite harsh. Very harsh 'burnt' smell I guess incense like but the burnt part not the fragrance part that gets too much after a while without the subtle sweetness in drydown of some of the other villoresis such as piper negrim.

Genre: Woods

Sandalo doesn't smell too much like sandalwood. Instead it presents an angular synthetic dry wood accord that's marred by harsh, sour off notes. The development is dominated by a bitter vetiver which rests upon a crude, aggressively chemical woody foundation. This is a loud fragrance with none of the suavity or depth I associate with sandalwood. Not one of Lorenzo Villoresi's best offerings, I'm afraid.

Lorenzo Villoresi is a glorious italian olfactory performer worldwide famous for the extreme balance and craftsmanship of his compositions which could may be for some to be not overly exalting (or too much classic) but will never result (to the honest passionates) such like off- putting, unbalanced or vile. It is impossible since Villoresi is a masterworker followed by many "beginner alchemists" as a real guru of the niche perfumery and since the implemented raw materials are always of the best quality (Patchouli, Sandalo, Musk, Spezie, Incensi, Piper Nigrum, Vetiver etc, are great interpretations of the main dealed themes). Well, Sandalo is a respectful interpretation of the main woody theme which appears (in its link with the notes of patchouli and vetiver) so distinguished, slightly aromatic/herbal (fresh lavender on the top), virile, finally ambery (dry spicy ambergris) and mossy-boise. There is a slightly bitter (dry toasted tobacco) type of earthy/spicy undertone with mossy/resinous nuances conjuring me a similar vibe I detect in Etro Saldalo (another gorgeous sandalwood dominant aroma). There is all around a gorgeous classic Elixir-vibe a la Aramis JHL (which is spicier) as well. The main note is properly woody (despite the soothing intervention from minimal hints of balsams), realistic, eau de cologne type (at least initially with hints of aqueous hesperides and fresh herbs) and barely floral (dry floral notes, probably geranium, rose and carnation). The note of rosewood is in my opinion evident and perfectly joined with hints of rose and sandalwood itself. The final outcome, over a couple of hours, appears decidedly stiff, "serious", dry, barely powdery and almost incensey (the ostensible vibe can just be aroused by dry woods, patchouli, and dry spices I suppose). Subtle spicy/floral refined sparks keep at distance to dance glittering in the air. Recommended to all the lovers of the realistic woody aromas.

A good, pleasant, cozy, aromatic sandalwood-vetiver scent, simple and honest, with cedarwood-like notes and a mellow "rounding" accord of something like cashmeran, which I personally like quite much. Classic masculine "eau de cologne" structure: amber-woods with a floral touch and an earthy-mossy counterpart. I also smell a hint of incense and tobacco, but that may be just a trick of my nose. Really pleasant, elegant, natural (at least a bit) and effortless, vibrant but relaxed. A bit delicate, but boldly persistent: also perhaps slightly "unpersonal", I mean without a defined personality, but perhaps its strenght is exactly in not having one – just being cozy and elegant, without being boring. A well-executed and versatile "crowdpleaser" and all-year, all-climates, all-outfits rounder. My review may not sound that enthusiastic, but instead (for what it's worth) I quite like this!

7,5/10