Papillon Artisan Perfumes (2015)

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Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

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About Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

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Salome is a shared scent launched in 2015 by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

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Reviews of Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

There are 36 reviews of Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

A fantastic, giant jasmine… packed with so many great florals that unwind over an absolutely beastly base of moss, cumin, castoreum and hyrax.

Unique, motioning towards classic perfumery, while still singing in the very clear voice of Papillon’s style(stack this up next to Anubis and Hera to see what I mean).

Have to disagree with the review below. Nothing like Rochas Femme, really, though they both have a lot of cumin in their current form, so if you are sensitive to cumin, you might be missing the total absence of peach/prune/cinnamon that makes Femme Rochas so compelling.

If you need a classical composition to compare it to, I’d probably say Bal Al Versailles but even that is a bit of a stretch. This is a monster. But so beautiful.

Had this one been released at $50 by a businessman-owned Middle Eastern brand with an Arabic-ish name, I can already hear the voices shouting: "clone! clone! clone!". Yes... because this is what it is: a (slightly) creamier copy of Rochas Femme (the current Cresp reformulation, with a 100ml bottle going for $30 on ebay), with possibly an extra hint of hyrax.
But since it has been released by a woman-owned British brand with a French name with a nice indie (BS) story, priced at $200 for just 50ml (aka 'if it's expensive it must be niche'), I guess it's ok and we'll refrain from call it a clone, and will limit ourselves to say that it "shares some similarities"...

It's the 3rd fragrance of this house that I try, and the 3rd fragrance that "strongly reminds me" of some other fragrance. Roja Dove has made a specialty of making 'clones for rich people', so why not another brand afterall....
Hard pass for me.

Fragrance type: animalic floral/amber

While Salome is a very well-made fragrance--and quite animalic as it claims to be, I did not personally enjoy it all that much. The opening is citrus aired with a strong cumin note that quickly gives way to an indolic jasmine/amber accord. I imagine Salome as a combination of vintage Eau d'Hermes (dry cumin note) and Guerlain l'Heure Bleue (iris/amber note)--both giants in their own right.

Not bad. Surely many people will really like this. The dirtiness may be a bit hard to handle.

Salome is Herod's step-daughter. A archetypal femme fatale, a figuere of desire and doom, embracing her own destruction. She is one of the women who dance for Herod and Herodias at a birthday celebration for Herod, who doring "The dance of the seven veils" the scent of her body combines with her animalic&erotic perfume and intoxicates every man around her, and claiming as her reward the head of John the Baptist. An bloody end...this is hot sex in a bottle, the kind of sex after a night dancing and mingling with armpits after everyone's cologne mixes with a little sweet and honey and musk and amber. Animal fur,animal waste, sweaty human body. impulsive, brutal, rude, visceral, stanky, primitive, but also strange, erotically sweaty and ahhh, orgasmic in the retro style.

It start out harsh, but wait. Be patient, gives way to sweetness, the floral notes tone it down the slightest bit which ends up being a perfect balance. A bed of cernation and the most beautiful renaissance rose. There is leather here alongside the earthy, musty patchouli. There is also a slight smokey smell like a recently extinguished candle. As it dries down you get that post-coital sexy funk-still well structured though. This fragrance is an ode to musk, leather and sex. The dry down is full of art and depth. This strikes me as being the scent of a man but a woman could definitely wear it. If you don't like leathery musky animalic scents then this one is not for you because it gets right down to dirty, sweaty sex like animals in heat. The sillage is great and the longevity is insane.


Salome is a floral animalic chypre, which to my nose smells exactly like Lutens' Muscs Koublai Khan with a light jasmine/rose accord added in to lift it out of its skanky animalic depths.

In neither the Muscs nor Salome is a musk note mentioned, but they do have three notes in common: patchouli, castoreum and cumin. Muscs added ambergris and civet.

Salome has a deep birch tar note that slowly emerges, giving us the effect of Russian leather without the raw hide being treated. This is a very strong, smoky scent and not for the weak of heart, certainly not to everyone's taste. The jasmine/rose lightness does make it more endurable than the Muscs, but only just.

I liked the Lutens very much upon sampling and bought a full bottle, which took a while to use up, as I was reluctant to wear it out in public, keeping it only for private home use. It is not a go-to scent by any means, and one bottle was enough for a lifetime.

My spouse is aesthetically opposed to skank effects in perfume, so did not like Salome. He found it “not pretty, dark and murky, overwhelming, and unpleasant, strong.” He could only think of a person wearing it to a night of disco prowling, but only if definitely “on the make.”

I would like to give Salome a thumbs up, but since it is a copy of an already unique scent, I must give it a neutral rating.

Beautiful floral opening strong in jasmine mixed with musk. Sort of the same opening feel as Kiehls, but they depart pretty quickly. There is much more going on here, and at a much deeper level. The heart is a gorgeous birch tar castoreum leather feel, a bit smoky, and just really deep, and a bit dark, like a hazy dark tan color. Really something i have not run across much. It has a timeless beauty to it. It left an oil sheen where i applied it. Really just smells of high quality. Makes me want to check out other things they've done, that type of quality. Thumbs up.

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