Ryder 
Ex Idolo (2015)

Ryder goes on with a moderately sweet smoky amber and pipe tobacco-like accord. Moving to the early heart, the composition stays relatively linear, as moderately sweet smoky amber grows in strength, becoming sole star, with the supporting pipe tobacco taking on a slightly booze-laden cola aspect while adding a natural cedar wood undertone. During the late dry-down the amber all but vacates with its remnants turning relatively dry, as slightly powdery vanilla and faint jasmine join-in, over a dry, stark natural woody base. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at around 15 hours on skin.

Ex Idolo's first offering, Thirty-Three, was a surprisingly superb outing from relative rookie perfumer Matthew Zhuk. After being wowed enough by Mr. Zhuk's first composition, obviously his second, Ryder, merited a sniff tout de suite. Having given the new offering several full wearings on skin it is time to see how Mr. Zhuk fared on attempt two for his house. The short early answer is "OK"... Smoky amber seems to be all the rage nowadays, and it seems like only yesterday I was wowed with Tango by Masque and many others of lesser quality. Here, Mr. Zhuk pairs the smoky amber (that smells not unlike relatively sweet smoldering wood to a large degree) with a not quite believable supporting pipe tobacco accord that actually smells more like cola syrup (or at least as a significant component of the accord). More believable are the natural deep cedar-like woods, conjuring up the planks used at a tobacconist shop or maybe even a humidor. The whole thing has been done before, but the cola is something relatively new, and the execution by Zhuk is excellent. The problem, aside from the lack of innovation, is the smoky amber is just a bit too much. It initially impresses, but as time passes it gnaws away at your senses, wearing out its welcome in relative short order. The gentle powdery vanilla and vague woods in the base are a pleasant but mundane affair; welcome to a degree after the smoky amber onslaught, but ultimately meriting a shoulder shrug. The bottom line is the $185 per 50ml Ryder is the kind of composition that impresses early, but as time passes and on future wearings when one looks beyond the initial polish on further reflection really is nothing new, earning an above average 2.5 to 3 stars out of 5 and a neutral recommendation with a positive bias. If one is looking for a smoky amber composition, Tango by Masque is a superior offering outright, while also providing a bit better bang for the buck.