here we go again...another entry in the rose-oud world...i feel like i smelled a gazillion of these in the last few years....still, it's nice to smell an entry like this that smells of quality blending and ingredients...slightly spicy/woody rose and oud combo...do prefer this one over a lot of others i've sampled...decent projection and longevity...in my opinion, a unisex fragrance...good stuff...enjoy...
The opening is pretty much the whole story: Rose, saffron, and oud Although it certainly doesnt win any awards for creativity, it is a quality accord that is almost painfully beautiful in a By Killian sort of way... Not a surprise. This one is perhaps as well done as any rose-saffron-oud fragrances Ive smelled The quality of the combined accord is excellent, but I have difficulty discovering the quality of the individual notes. A problem I have is that Ive smelled so many of this combination of notes that Ive become jaded I find nothing special here to separate it from the rest of its ilk. And yet it is an admirably presented fragrance.
Not much changes from that first sniff there some are variations in the development as Rose Oud continues, but they to not call to be pointed out. The entire run of the fragrance is a beautifully assembled, balanced accord of quality rose, saffron, and (artificial) oud. Its sillage performance is easily adjustable; its wearablity is remarkable; and its longevity is more than adequate.
Rose, oud, saffron, gaiac wood, cardamom yes, its the typical line-up for your average rose-oud fragrance. Ill excuse you if youre not getting too excited I know I wasnt. But I find myself haunted by my sample of By Kilian Rose Oud, long after its gone, and Ill tell you why. Its one of the easiest rose-oud fragrances to wear, as well as the most serenely beautiful. It has none of the exciting harshness of the oud accord used in most other Western oud fragrances, and is all the better for it. Think of the most beautiful supermodel youve ever laid eyes on - but one who nonetheless fails to either move you or turn you on - and thats Rose Oud by Kilian.
The secret to the success of Rose Oud is this: all the major elements (the rose, the oud, the gaiac wood, and the saffron) do not possess a strong character of their own but instead melt together to form a small black velvet pocket into which you find your hand fits perfectly.
So the green, slightly sour wet rose at the start gains a dulcet depth from the subtle oud, growing sweeter, jammier, and fuller as time goes on. The oud provides the dark backdrop without muscling its way into the composition in that bullying way oud tends to have. The saffron casts only a fine patina of sweet gold dust rather than its usual iodine-y leather scream. Its a very subtle, smooth fragrance - almost ephemeral. When I think the show has ended, eight hours on, I am surprised to find that golden, almost pudding-like saffron emerge on my skin, and a pleasantly sour tinge of oud.
Calice Becker knows her roses. Boy, she knows her roses, and Rose Oud is a rose done right. The eventual jamminess and wetness of the rose here mimics the pulpy lushness of the flower at the start of Liaisons Dangereuses (also by Calice Becker), but without that peach shampoo thing that Liaisons Dangereuses slithers into towards the end.
The oud, by the way, is synthetic but has the virtue of not smelling like it, so carefully woven into the fabric of the fragrance has it been. Yet more proof that it is more the skill of the perfumer (and to be fair, the art direction, for which we can thank Kilian Hennessey himself) than the raw materials that matters in terms of the final result.
Rose Oud is a beautiful, delicate piece of work whose subtleties could easily go unnoticed if you werent paying attention. It is by far one of my favorite rose-oud fragrances, and despite the cost, I have a feeling that I will own a (refill) bottle of this someday, even if I have to sell off some of my (many) other oud fragrances to afford it. I have finally reached the stage where I am content to do away with five or six inferior bottles of perfume to get my hands on just one bottle of something that satisfies and pleases from every angle.
Rose Oud may not be the most exciting or unusual rose oud on the market many think it is pretty but mundane but I think its one of the best-smelling rose-ouds around, perhaps only bettered by Tom Fords wonderful Noir de Noir or Guerlains Rose Nacree du Desert.
A rose, woodsy, very synthetic and dominant, opens up this scent very forcefully, a rose that is fleshy, fairly bright in character and soon is admixed with a wood that has very synthetic oud characteristics, although the rose always remains in the foreground throughout. This rose-oud dyad takes on a slightly harsh edge at times.
I really get this core duet for the total duration of this product's development, and in spite of occasional intercalating bursts of a fairly unstable and unexciting saffron - this is not Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Sultan Safran - and occasional phases where cardamom or guaïac offer some relief, this is in essence a very linear creation.
It's main forte is the splendid performance, with strong sillage, excellent projection and a stupendous longevity of twelve hours on my skin.
Admittedly the current tsunami of oud fragrances - with or without rose - mean that I am in danger of developing oud fatigue syndrome, but standing back and trying to be fair on this By Kilan creation I would place in just on the borderline between neutral and positive, with the outstanding perfomance pushing it just across the line by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.