Rose de Nuit 
Serge Lutens (1993)

Average Rating:  24 User Reviews

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Rose de Nuit by Serge Lutens

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About Rose de Nuit by Serge Lutens

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Serge Lutens
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Rose de Nuit is a shared scent launched in 1993 by Serge Lutens

Fragrance notes.

Reviews of Rose de Nuit by Serge Lutens

There are 24 reviews of Rose de Nuit by Serge Lutens.

The rose-y opening is lovely; a rich Turkish Rose, slightly dark and infused with lavender. After a while, a transient fruitiness is evident, mainly peach and apricot, but the rose is the dominant note. The latter expresses green grassy hints with an undertone of amber at times, with minimally indolic whiffs evident too.

Towards the ends the floral sweetness is complimented by bees wax - a surprising combination that works well. Additionally, a sandalwood impression is noticeable in the background, where it remains on me without playing any significant role. Closer to the finish white musks make an appearance too.

I get moderate sillage, adequate rejection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant rose-centred creation for spring days and evenings that develops some original moments, but is a bit generic towards the end when the rose is no longer present. 3.5/5

I adore this strange and strangely fascinating scent! Oddly enough, I have no interest in the more traditional (and bombastic) rose chypres with which it is often compared. Those scents tend to feel sharp to me, as if they have pointed claws and teeth. Thankfully Rose de Nuit is far less bombastic than Knowing or L'arte di Gucci and contains none of their unending spikiness, either. Instead, the Lutens seems leavened with something waxy and softening--almost as if you are smelling an ancient apricot rose through layers of muslin or a mummy's wrapping cloth. Plus, (and this is always a plus for me) RdN contains the same sort of animalic musk as MKK, and this almost furry/leathery note combined with the softly greasy beeswax keeps me intrigued from beginning to end.

I must have a bell jar.

A rich, dark rose soliflore.

I disagree with Tania Sanchez, who calls this a "rose chypre." It has been compared elsewhere in these reviews as being similar to true rose chypres, such as Coriandre, Perles de Lalique, etc., with their sharp, peppery green galbanums. I don't get that similarity at all.

There is amber supporting this dark rose, but the composition is not as complex as that of a chypre. To my nose, it is a straight-forward soliflore rose, very quiet and subdued, which is unusual for this house. I am used to Lutens as a power house, with strong oil concentrations, almost parfum strength, in their edp releases.

This is restrained and eminently wearable.

As a lover of animalic rose chypres, I had high hopes for this; I was already fantasizing about it becoming my mysterious and elegant signature scent, how I would pretend it was Nombre Noir. While it is beautiful, it is simply too quiet to be worth its $300 price tag. Perhaps if I could purchase it in Paris where Lutens bell jars are about $150 I would spring for it, but the import cost is obscene.
The reputed strangeness of Rose de Nuit is dependent on the wearer never having smelled an 80s rose chypre. If you are familiar with Montana, Coriandre, La Perla, La Nuit, Magie Noire, Paloma Picasso, Aromatics Elixir, Knowing, Aramis 900, even Agent Provocateur, Rose de Nuit will seem like a disappointingly quiet and short-lived version of those with an admittedly gorgeous silky texture and top-notch raw materials. If you are not, it will probably blow your mind as rose chypre accords did when I first smelled them. It is an exotic odor often termed "old lady" but framed with cool Lutens opulence and exclusivity that make it palatable and mysterious. It's like how someone who has never seen a truly out-there inscrutable art movie (Andrei Rublev, Persona, Melancholie der Engel) would have their minds blown by, say, It Follows. Rose chypres are shocking to modern noses because millennials, having grown up with no fragrance except the occasional calone or Iso E, simply can't comprehend someone choosing to smell like that.

Still, if I make my way to Paris, I may buy a bottle. The prospect of dumping it on copiously from a bell jar is appealing.

It is the opposite of a fresh rose, more of a musty (not, musky) rose, with a bit of sweet and woody notes thrown in.

It is interesting in the sense that this is a non-fresh rose but not a usual oud-rose or patchouli-rose combo. I kind of like it, but do not love it. It does not strike me as something I feel compelled to wear.

It is long lasting, but the projection is rather limited. Unisex.

Far from your average pretty rose soliflore, this rose has seen better days. Its beauty wanes in its twilight, the petals a little dry, withering around their edges, its scarlet hues noticeably darker with the inevitable decay. There is a certain element of darkness or intrigue about it, like a fading beauty flirting with danger. I can imagine why the mature fragrance wearers could appreciate this better than novice noses.

Earlier references to rose chypres are well-deserved for Rose de Nuit smells like a fallen rose on a bed of moss and dark earth. While I didn't enjoy the somewhat animalic opening its last few hours kept me enthralled. That it often evokes compelling stories is testament to the genius behind this composition.

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