This is another crudely masked silicone rendition by the house of Frederic Malle. Posh and plastic. And straight to the point.
I find such concoctions not only an olfactory violation, but also an insult to a person's intelligence. Their structural and conceptual design is cheap and simple:
1. The emotional trigger. Obviously supposed to inundate your balanced assessment of the perfume and manipulate you into an emotional buy.
2. A flattening that passes easily as complexity due to the initial dulling of your senses. It also tricks you into expecting that something new might lie ahead. This never happens, of course.
3. The disclosure of the synthetic skeleton that has kept the whole thing underneath.
4. An arrogantly high price to fool you into believing you are getting something worthy.
Certainly, many houses rely on similar gimmicks, but it seems to have become a prominent mark of niche houses that would target a more naïve audience. Or snobbish.
I don't think I have come across any other house that puts so much effort into hiding that underlying synthetic skeleton. Usually this is detectable from the beginning.
All of the editions of Frederic Malle that I have tried, share this common idea and design. Even their higher-level ones, like Promise. However, Rose & Cuir is remarkable in its direct and shameless parading. And considering the price tag, this is short of being a scam.
Perfumes like this are suited more to silicone-based brains, not carbon based. Then again, I can't help but wonder, why a silicone-based brain would even appreciate perfumes or any aesthetic interaction for that matter.
And here is a hint for all lovers of more natural essences: if the perfume affects only your nose and frontal lobe, but cannot penetrate deeper into the brain and lower into the lungs so that you could also breathe the aromas, not only smell them this is a sure sign of attempted or ensuing synthetic entrapment.
The opening blast is a fresh-ish green grassy and herbal affair with a fresh and slightly fruity transient blackcurrant undertone. A hint of bitterness and some white peppers comes and go at times.
With the intensity of the components gradually weakening over time, some florals are deciding to make an appearance. A geranium, hints of an orange blossom, and a medium-dark rose impression. On occasionas a vetiver contributes to the mix and brightens it up; it is a vetiver without any significantly earthy or woody component.
A bit further into the drydown, and nonspecific woodsiness appeared with a smidgen of a cedar evident occasionally. This is intermingled with a good dose of isobutyl quinoline, which attempts to conjure up a suede-like leathery impression - not very successfully as far as I am concerned when smelling this chemical pseudo-suede. This all coalesces into a slightly sweetish laboratory emanation.
I get moderate sillage, good projection especially at the beginning, and nine hours of longevity on my skin.
A A scent for spring or for cooler summer day, with a starting phase that is quite original. Most of the the rest, alas, is a bit pallid for some stretches of time, and fairly generic. Overall 2.75/5
My review is of the EDP that I received in the mail a month ago from a major department store. It is the 7ml mini that is part of Frederic Malle's Roses: A Collection edition.
This is new-car smell. With roses. I think I would have named this Cuir & Rose instead of the other way 'round, because the leather is much stronger than the flower note-- this is absolutely positively not a floral, in spite of the name.
I can tell it's a well-crafted fragrance but I don't know if there's enough depth or roundedness here for me.
It's dawning on me that this is much more masculine than I expected. A man who might not otherwise wear a rose-scented fragrance could be quite happy with Rose & Cuir.
After about fifteen minutes the roses (and that bit of dark fruit, the description says blackcurrant, so it must be that, but there's something like rum or brandy here too) are all but gone. And then I smell cedar, strong but soft. It's a bit like Feminite du Bois in a white suede jacket.
And although I didn't detect it, when I asked my 18 year-old son to use one word to describe this fragrance he said, "Grass."
Rose & Cuir is for someone, but not me. I would be very happy to smell it on someone else, though.