Rochas Femme (original) 
Rochas (1944)


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Marcel Rochas
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Reviews of Rochas Femme (original) by Rochas

There are 17 reviews of Rochas Femme (original) by Rochas.

Not exactly Egghead Weds Hourglass but not far from it; Peaches and Cream Floral meets Cumin Leather Chypre. The contrast is extreme, the balance precarious and perfect. This was only the third perfume by Roudnitska and already a first masterpiece.

Roudnitska wasn't content with turning out mere pretty perfume, he liked to use odd themes in his work, and in Femme the stone he threw into the pool was cumin.

Femme is a lactonic, pink fruity floral with a dark bitter underside, which gives it depths of expression that most fruity florals do not attempt. Because the dark base notes are held in check they never obscure the sumptuous beauty of Femme's peachy theme. But the contrast between the lovely pink top half and the underlying bitter darkness sets up a complicated dynamic that, like chiascuro in painting, actually serves to highlight the beauty of the composition.

The way these olfactory and emotional contrasts were handled by Roudnitska is quite brilliant. Because of this, and the fact that he did not shy away from complicated, or even conflicting elements in his work, Femme could be seen as the Godmother of Niche, as well as being one of the most beautiful perfumes of all time.

May 3, 2019

How to describe Femme? It is "fashionably skanky" The civet and cumin give an unwashed body smell as a foundation. Someone else mentioned "Tang drink mix powder" and it's true! There is a powdery/dusky artificial orange Tang smell. I usually despise anything 'peach' but it is subtle and unobtrusive. There is a floral jasmine note that balances the body odor fragrance. It is fashionable, formal, and daring.
Sep 14, 2017

A friend sent me a sample of the vintage PDT (1980s?) and all I can say is - wow. Sometimes I find vintage perfume to be a bit over-hyped, to be honest. I prefer not to live with the idea that the best in perfumery is behind us (or available at an extortionate price on eBay), and often try to get along with modern versions of the scent instead. But this is one of those instances when you put on a vintage and immediately begin to mourn its brutal reformulation. I tried the new version once in a shop and found it a bitter, woody fruit chypre, overloaded with cumin and obviously trying to come across as the less celebral sister of Mitsouko.

The vintage juice, on the other hand, is a deep, brilliant orange in color, almost announcing its radioactive power. It is superb. A rich, luridly-hued pile of peaches and peach skin, dusted in warming spice and set against a backdrop of lacquered woods and damp moss. There is a fair amount of cumin or civet in this, enough to set my hair ends at vibrate alert anyway, and certainly enough to imbue the perfume with a curvaceous sensuality. Yes, there is a kinship to the great Mitsouko, as all fruity/woody chypres must have, but Femme is slightly looser and sexier - and dare I say, perhaps even a bit easier to wear. Edited to add: the heavy cumin/civet, fruit, and moss actually remind me a lot of the first half of Jubilation 25, when it still behaves as a bitter, fruity chypre rather than its creamy oriental second act. But Femme is chypre all the way through.
Jan 14, 2015

The first of the so called (and badly named) "dirty" scents for women.

This simply means scents that imitate and enhance the natural body aromas from madame's nethermost regions.

It is strong and heavy, combining the cinnamon, cumin and coriander in an unforgettable way, bringing a new scent category into being.

This is not to be worn for casual flirting. The woman wearing this means business and is hoping for serious love-making. Definitely not an office scent unless the woman is a heartless tease. The male equivalent of this would be to my nose Ernesto Sebastiano's name scent.

Top notes: Peach, Plum, Bergamot, Lemon, Rosewood, Apricot, Cinnamon
Heart notes: Ylang, Jasmine, Rose de Mai, Clove, Orris, Coriander, Immortelle
Base notes: Musk, Amber, Oakmoss, Benzoin, Patchouli, Leather, Sandalwood, Civet, Sandalwood, Cumin.

Turin called it a "woody floral" - ??? and gave it three stars. Barbara Herman called it a "fruity chypre."

It was Mae West's signature scent. Need one say more. One of the greats.
Oct 12, 2014

Just received a vintage bottle of this masterpiece. I cannot really detect the different notes in the remaining drops at the bottom of the bottle, but I perceive a smell of old good well balanced scents. The kind of scents they used to create to give women a sense of luxury and elegance. The kind of scents are so difficult to buy today. Even the cardboard box speaks of elegance and luxury, with its lace design. Why oh why is it so rare such a meticolous care in details today?
Feb 11, 2014

I splurged on a vintage bottle of edt. From the bottle it smells like the most heavenly balsamic fruity amber nectar. On spritizing, there's a tonne of cinnamon which rapidly morphs into an amalgam of aldehydes and sweaty crotch! The crotch (cumin?) remains, but is joined by what really does smell like plum. Not a deep, plum jam as I'd imagined, but a fresh, juicy plum, on a sandalwood platter. I'm surprised that the juiciness has survived, but also relieved. It's starting to smell like a fresher version on Feminite du Bois, now... Very interesting, and very glad I took a punt on this one! :-)
May 14, 2013

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