Risque (Parfum) opens with a slightly sweet citrus spiked airy rose and slightly powdery ylang-ylang tandem before moving quickly to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the ylang-ylang takes the fore with the citrus and rose quickly receding, as it is joined by co-starring white floral jasmine. Later in the heart progression the jasmine and ylang-ylang remain but slightly diminish, allowing a lush hyacinth floral accord to join the others, taking the lead in and out for about an hour with a subtle white musk undertone resembling high quality detergent in support. During the late dry-down the floral aspects dissipate as the composition turns significantly woody through the use of cedar and ever so slightly sweet through the relatively sanitized patchouli, ambery labdanum and faint hints of underlying cinnamon peeping in and out through the finish. Projection is excellent to near outstanding and longevity is outstanding at well over 15 hours on skin.
Wow, what a pleasant surprise! With a name such as "Risque" I expected something super-daring and challenging to wear but Risque Parfum (or "Creation R" as it is called in the States) is anything but. Instead of a challenging composition the wearer instead gets one of the finest and most pleasant smelling floral concoctions I have encountered. The initial ylang-ylang and rose floral tandem is absolutely sublime and super-high quality. The florals seem to just float in the air with significant projection and sillage but never overpower. Speaking of florals, the hyacinth that joins the party later-on in the composition's mid-section has got to be the best integration of that note I have sniffed to date, and the result is absolutely outstanding. If there is any relative weakness to the composition ("relative" being the operative word) it would have to be the late dry-down, where things get a bit more subtle and restrained. At the end of the day even Risque (Parfum) at its worst is better than 99% of compositions at their best. As an aside, while I rarely mention stereotypical "masculinity" and "femininity" in my perfume reviews as I believe all compositions can be worn by anyone, I dare say that Risque (Parfum) would truly smell absolutely striking on a lady in particular. Coming full circle, I return to saying this stuff is absolutely brilliant! The bottom line is the $480 per 50ml bottle Risque (Parfum) is a near reference quality airy floral concoction that may have a name that is unfortunate, but the composition itself is unquestionably brilliant, earning a "near masterpiece" to "masterpiece" rating of 4.5 to 5 stars out of 5 and an extremely strong recommendation to all, women in particular. Start saving up your funds for this costly one!