Replique is one of those scents where the quality and character of the scent is closely tied to the vintage. Today, I am lucky enough to be wearing (what I believe to be an early 80s) splash EDT by Parfums Raphael, with little discoloration and oxidation. The bottle is hourglass shaped and the box has an abstracted French flag.
The application opens with the a blast of vintage aldehydes, but once upon warm skin, it develops quickly. Replique is a heavy, classic chypre, weighted more with Lemon than Bergamot. In this way it reminds me of Adolfo II. The heart is primarily Lily and Jasmine, almost certainly an absolue. The heart is vegetal and waxy. Spices are perfectly balanced, because without them, the heart would be unbearably sweet, however they do not make a stand of their own. This is like an incredibly rich, honeyed dessert with spices and lemon rinds. Delectable! The base is primarily mossy and resinous, and for sure has authentic musk.
Sillage is big, and longevity insane (20 hours and going strong, what with all the fixatives in the base). Initial drydown retains a good dose of all the ingredients in the top and heart, for a couple of hours. Long term drydown is Powder over Ambergris. Really intense stuff! The green, soapy character reminds me a bit of Aromatics Elixir.
Replique (1944) was Raphael's first scent. In the course of 15 years he was to create just over a dozen (14 at my last count), most of which were sold only to European markets. Only his most popular, Replique and Plaisir (the latter a lighter version of the former) made it to the USA. The Raphael factory burned to the ground in 1959, taking with it almost all the formulas.
Luckily, Replique and Plaisir (in pure parfum and edt versions) proliferate on Ebay, so they are easily enjoyed. [Note that the current re-formulation of Replique bears no resemblance to the original, but is a thoroughly enjoyable scent on its own (Rose de Mai and French wildflowers.]
Replique is one of my five favorite scents of all time. It shares with Coty's L'Aimant that indefinable lift and nuttiness that make these two rather unique in my perfume journey. Replique is a lovely nutty, complex, floral chypre. If you love L'Aimant, you'll no doubt equally love Replique.
Top notes: Bergamot, Clary Sage, Coriander, Cardamom, Lemon, Neroli, Orange
Base notes: Amber, Civet, Leather, Oakmoss, Musk, Patchouli, Vetiver, Vanilla
One of the greatest and most original perfumes ever created.
First Edit: The more I live with the vintage Replique, the more aware I am of the rose and cinnamon, which are not listed in the note tree, but which are now for me at the heart of the scent. Superb chypre.
My mother was given a large bottle of Replique, by Raphael himself, in 1951, when she was in Paris and buying some clothes at the House of Raphael...
I have loved the fragrance and wore it into adulthood ...but, by the very early sixties, it had disappeard and I've found nothing like it since. Revlon came out with a perfume of the same name in the 1970's..but it bore no resemblence whatsoever to the original. I would pay anything to have it again... There are so many fragrances available now ...too many... and all too much alike. I don't see why the formula cannot be duplicated. I'd be willing to bet it would sell at over $500 an ounce!
This review is for the Long Lost Perfumes version of Replique. It's a very unique, leathery-mossy-green. It could easily be a contemporary niche scent from one of the quirkier houses. I absolutely love it, though I have a strong penchant for all perfumes green. I highly recommend this for fellow green-freaks!
During my childhood, I remember so many women (icluding my mom) wearing Replique. In 1959, my mom's friend, then a top Dior model in Paris, came to visit us in Milano. I was just a kid of 10 yrs old but I could remember my mom commenting on how much she liked her perfume. Well, she took a small piece of cloth and sprayed it with Replique. Mom immediately went to a profumeria to purchase it! She wore it for many years to follow. I can still smell the lovely fragrance in my mind to this very day. Too bad that fragrances follow the "present day trends" because original Replique was so lovely and sexy, too. I wish these beautiful "classics" can be relaunched in their original form. Today, designers and perfume houses don't have the creativity that existed years ago. It is the "end of an era".
Wow. What a surprise. I had never heard about this frag but saw a vintage bottle, still wrapped in cellophane, online and purchased it. When it arrived, i could see that the cellophane was quite old and brown but still amazingly intact. It was exciting to think that I was the first person to open this bottle and sniff. From the look of the graphics on the box I would guess it might be from the 50's. The scent began as I expected, dated but classic, very few modern scents open with this kind of drama. It is a bit pungent, but the citrus herb mix is balanced and provocative. Edwards calls this a mossy wood, and the wood appears in the drydown but very softly, cushioned by the other ingredients. The drydown is rich but subtle and somehow powerful. A very wonderful scent from beginning to end. I might recommend this for a man or a woman. I plan on dousing myself in it this evening and just enjoying.