It begins with smell of something you would eat in a summer day barbeque.
Pimiento, rhubarb, juniper, burnt meat.
But soon it develops into a smoky meaty medicinal scent.
I can understand why it is one of his most popular fragrance.
The smoky accord is similar to one in Amouage attar (Tribute I think).
Deadidol's extensive review, the first on this page, pretty much exhausts the subject of Red Leather.
Paul Kiler considers this his masterpiece, and although I will concur with him as to its success, I still hold out for his Gold Leather as his best.
In any case, this begins with a wallop of sharp, dark, medicinal, almost iodine, notes, but wait ten minutes and it has settled down to a very dark and intense, but very pleasant and unusual leather. I imagine this might be what early scented leather did smell like early in the perfuming stage.
I can't imagine a woman wearing it, unless she were also a biker, as it is very masculine, almost upsettingly so. This is for the macho man, sporting an acrid cigar and a neat glass of scotch.
Interesting to say the least and worth a try if the above appeals to you.
A hot, animalic fragrance that has far more to offer than what the name suggests Red Leather is deceptive in that it diverges from standard perfume interpretations of the subject, instead offering a hot, animalic, and stimulating ride with a polysemous charge that can be read differently from wearer to wearer. Without hesitation, the scent throws the first punch of sharp rhubarb and pink pepper, creating a visual image not of red, but of hot, vivid pink. While forceful, there's nothing abrasive or jarring about the way this opens, yet it's more than enough to grab and hold your attention throughout the initial stages. But the second you grow accustomed to the unusual pepper/rhubarb pairing, things become complicated as by now animalic notes have stepped in and are mingling with the hot pinks to produce a slight dirty, indolic effect. At this point, the scent begins to vacillate between invigorating and something else entirely. Saffron-type notes begin to appear and the overall coloration shifts from hot pink to a deeper and more seductive red. The rhubarb sharpness is still prominent, but retracts into the mix allowing the pink pepper to join forces with the other spices to reveal a rich, textured carnation base. The note transitions here are particularly clever in that they don't simply compliment one another passively, but actively make use of each another to shift from one phase into the next. And as the scent moves into its final stage, the color shift becomes notably more of a deep red/burgundy which, like Kiler's other fragrances, insinuates a narrative of movement that's represented here as an initial seduction followed by a capture. And this, perhaps is where the leather component might be best indexed. What sets this fragrance apart from other leather scents is that it's just not that leathery. Instead, it creates more of an aura of a personin leather rather than rendering a literal leather effect. The scent's moniker might even be said to produce an effect of longing within the wearer–a desire for leather, or more provocatively (and to trace the implicit narrative), a desire to be seduced and captured. From this perspective, the evanescence of the leather should not be read as a design flaw as the fragrance becomes especially arresting when approached from such a contextual standpoint, but it also raises the question of who might wear something like this and where might they wear it? It's unisex, but unconventionally so, as it would seem plausible that such a scent might work in different ways for different genders or orientations. There's a raunchiness to it that stems from the animalics and the saffron-like spices; yet it can just as easily be read as a fresh, invigorating fragrance–one that could plausibly be worn to a formal environment. And it's here that the name seems somewhat problematic in that "red leather" conjures up very specific images and associations, yet Red Leather itself is far more versatile than the associations it conjures. Furthermore, what leather notes are distinguishable are rendered so subtly and intriguingly, that a person looking for a standard leather fragrance might be disappointed to find that this one is considerably more intricate and interesting than the name would suggest. The leather note is certainly present, but is refracted through the the scent's other components. There's not much that this could be aligned to as the dominant notes that Kiler selected are fairly uncommon in contemporary compositions. Aedes de Venustas EdP has a similar (albeit brief) rhubarb opening, but that scent leans more on tomato leaf to get its effect whereas Red Leather deploys the rhubarb as bait as well as a mode of transition. Ultimately, this is a surprising perfume–one that would lend itself to a slew of scenarios and wearers, yet it's still quite particular in that it won't appeal to everybody. For those who like their freshness with some hot spice, this might be a strong contender. But for those who want a simple text-book leather scent, there are others available that might serve that need better. Red Leather's far more unusual and captivating than a stock leather fragrance, and it has an agenda that's all its own.Pros: Multi-faceted, invoking a slew of associations, Red Leather's function is highly contextualCons: The name somewhat belies the scope of what this scent is really about"