Reviews of Private Collection - Querelle by Parfumerie Generale

Querelle begins with a refined citrus accord with a touch of spices, and a nod to many aromatic fragrances from the '70s and the '80s. The resinous character is soon evident from the myrrh, which is laced with a mossy undertone. I get a hint of incense, and hardly any vetiver, though there is an airy quality to it akin to vetiver compositions. The nuanced accord driven by myrrh and incense forms the back bone of the composition, and there is little further transformation over time.
My gripe with Querelle is that it is exceedingly soft on my skin beyond the first hour or so, and wears as an eau de toilette. Its duration on skin is also barely adequate. Otherwise it is a fine scent, more handsome than beautiful, rather conservative and well executed. Anyone interested in something more substantial should try L'Homme Sage by Divine. Though, to enjoy the latter, one has to like saffron, which I do not.
3/5 (neutral)

I'm considering buying a bottle, and my friend was so taken with my response to it she wanted to blind-buy as well. I went hiking 11km in this, in 98F heat, and it was still on me by the end. I would highly recommend this.
ADVERTISEMENT

I would have expected something transgressive, or at least animalic, from a scent named after Genet's dark novel of masochistic lust, homosexual rape, blackmail, and murder, but that's not what Querelle delivers. Granted, Querelle projects some of the hyper-masculine swagger embodied in Genet's characters, but it smells to me more of a gentleman's club than of a gay leather bar or a brothel full of randy sailors. I realize that the scent itself is more important than the label, but with such a loaded name, I just can't help wishing for a provocative scent something along the lines of Muscs Koublaï Khan, Oud Cuir d'Arabie, Kouros, or even Pierre Guillaume's own Intrigant Patchouli.
Instead, Querelle presents a bundle of bitter aromatic notes and sweet bergamot over a mossy base in a highly traditional spicy fougère accord. It's the same in-your-face, macho, 70s and 80s vibe you get in Yatagan, Azzaro pour Homme, or Balenciaga's Portos. (In fact, Querelle's scent pyramid overlaps very heavily with Azzaro's!) It's an appealing formula, since few scents of this sort are composed nowadays, but I don't feel that Pierre Guillaume has brought anything new to the table with Querelle. If you like this kind of scent, you can get Azzaro, or the even more daring Yatagan for less than a quarter of Querelle's niche market price.


This is a very creative fragrance, using note combinations that are unusual and cerebral, in that my mind is usually trying to tease apart the notes when I wear it. It can never quite assimilate the combination of caraway with the other notes, so it is a dynamic fragrance on me. It shifts from incensy to chypre to bitter to grassy, all in dark tones, but caraway is driving this train.
This has a real timeless quality about it with its own character, which I like. Though I don't wear it all the time, when I'm in the mood for it, it's excellent.

It goes on kind of harsh, almost like a chemical smell. But it softens and warms up, and the spices come out a bit. There is something almost salty about it. Most of the fragrances I really enjoy have some kind of sweetness in them, but there is nothing sweet about this. It makes me think of rye bread, or is that just the power of suggestion of the caraway listed in the notes?
After a while it lightens up a lot, and becomes this dry, grassy, somewhat airy scent that I enjoy. I wouldn't call it soapy or even clean, really. Maybe a little metallic, though? I don't even know how to describe this. It's like someone took a traditional men's fragrance and made it sort of abstract. It could almost pass for normal until you pay closer attention.

Here the cinnamon followed by a light incense note appears giving to this particular fragrance, a very nice mysterious vibe, as if the incense was not on my skin, but surrounding me in the environment.
Through time, the base shows up leaving a slightly heavy incense aroma, but again, not something overdone, making me think about L'air du Desert Marocain a little bit.









