Reviews of Private Collection Jasmine White Moss 
Estée Lauder (2009)

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Private Collection Jasmine White Moss by Estée Lauder

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Reviews of Private Collection Jasmine White Moss by Estée Lauder

There are 15 reviews of Private Collection Jasmine White Moss by Estée Lauder.

Jasmine greets me from the beginning, a bright, slim and elegant jasmine that consists of two components: firstly, a typical jasmine flower impression, bright, sunny and friendly and with just a touch of sweetness.

Secondly, there is another undertone accompanying the jasmine: a woodsy grassy undertone, a bit tangy and crisp, as if the jasmine leaves and stems are also giving off their aroma. This blends in well with the flowery side of this combination.

The later phases of this scent are less convincing, with overly synthetic wood and wannabe-moss impressions taking over. The beginning is the best part of it all.

The performance is not bad, with moderate sillage, adequaye projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A good spring fragrance for jasmine lovers, alas spoilt a bit by the drydown hat is too generic and synthetic. 2.75/5.

My daughter's wedding loomed. 'What perfume will you wear" I asked. Her face turned inside out "It has to be something that nobody else is wearing, what do you have?" I had a little something that I thought might work, all thanks to a very sophisticated but supremely approachable SA at Nieman Marcus Alamoana Centre. Because it was her nuptial perfume of choice I handed my gorgeous sample to my daughter, who instantly fell in love with Tom Ford's Champaca Absolute. It met the criteria too. Aha! Not the subject of this review, you ask, what are you blithering on about? The bride is the star of the show, but what does the Mother of the Bride wear? What says 'I know enough about perfume to get this mix right' ? I racked my brains and decided that Cristalle could translate that mixture of joy and understated elegance, but hell, Cristalle wouldn't last past the first hour. Jasmin White Moss isn't a clone when compared wrist to wrist, but let's face it, the Queen is dead, Long live the Queen; Cristalle is barely supported by Chanel as all the marketing energy has gone into the Exclusifs and a certain Pitt stop. The wedding is next week. Thank you Aerin Lauder, thank you Estee, for this perfume's conception. I think there's a trace of 'Beautiful' in it, but perhaps I'm brainwashed. Whatever White Moss Mist is, I'm a believer and I love it. Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue.

l'm surprised & delighted to have found a chypre that it seems l can wear! Galbanum is usually a difficult note for me, but here it is done with a light hand, & along with a nice, dry oakmoss it gives an elegant crispness to the top notes. ln the heart is a very pretty, clean jasmine, which projects & lasts for several hours before softly fading. Very refreshing on a summer's day.
This fragrance deserves it's place alongside the other two in the Private Collection series, which l also love, & l would seriously consider a bottle of this.
lf, like me, you find most of the classic chypres too challenging, give this modern version a shot, you might just love it too.

I give this high marks for an original jasmine fragrance becuase it starts out drier than any other jasmine frangrance I have ever smelled. I would rate it higher if the dryness stayed throughout the fragrance. It starts with a strong grassy, salty accord that offers a counterpoint to any floral sweetness. The grassy note is my favorite part of this fragrance. It is an extremely clean vetiver that smells like dried grass, which is beautiful. As for oakmoss, it may use a certain percentage of the real ingredient (which I always think smells a bit like salted popcorn) but most of the moss note consists of a technologically-rafted accord that is stronger and drier than the real thing. As this part fades away, a more traditional jasmine fragrance emerges, one that is creamy and fuity, almost cool and aquatic because it involves a
lovely melon aroma. By itself, this part of the development offers a sweet, pleasant, abstract jasmine. I would like to see the dry part hang onto the wet part longer because that trick elevated this fragrance to a unique take on jasmine.

This scent has a very retro style that may not be for everyone, but i think it fully represents what the good old days of E.L. were and it takes a lot of confidence to release a scent like this in the current market. This is a very green chypre very saturated floral with heady , rich white flowers and if used sparingly, it is a very nice elegant and chic scent, it has a base of moss and woods. The top smells very much like galbanum, similar to the top of YSL's Y, but where Y remains green throughout the drydown, this one changes from green to jasmine-ylang to white moss. It's good, but can be cloying.

An extremely boring, aggressively, synthetically "fresh" green/white floral that assaults my nose.

Private Collection Jasmine White Moss is like Cristalle with fangs and talons. I found it very disappointing. There are two impressions I get from PCJWM, other than its being an obvious nod to Cristalle. One is the smell of acetone. You know, fingernail polish remover. The other impression I get is a good measure of helional, which here smells discordant. Helional, by the way, is the impression of aluminum tinged milk. If JWM doesn't contain helional, then it contains something very close to it. JWM is much too rough for my tastes. My advice is to go for Cristalle, the real deal.

Uhmm... all round, no. Not enough. Yes it's fresh at first, but soon the vaguely sweet and musty drydown already mentioned creeps to the fore. And stays there. This smells really familiar, but the drydown reveals the (sadly) modern nature of this scent. I don't care if it DOES outperform Cristalle and Eau Sauvage in longevity, as this has nothing but that fact to say for itself, I'll stick to the classics when I want refreshing crispness. And for jasmine I'm sure the same applies; been done better.

I first whiffed Jasmine White Moss when it first came out and wasn't that into it, so I put my sample away and sorta forgot about it. I just dug it out the other day and I'm glad I did! Wow! Not sure why I didn't like this the first time I sampled it, but it goes to show that you can *never* dismiss a fragrance after a single sampling. If I dismissed scents after an intial bad-impression I would have so many of my favorites... you just can't judge something the first time you try it.To really understand JWM you need to be familiar with some of the vintage Estee Lauder fragrance on which JWM is obviously paying hommage to. Private Collection, White Linen, Aliage, and Azuree are vintage Lauder chypres and I detect hints of all of them in JWM. In classic 60s/70s chypre fashion there are restrained citrus notes, subtle white florals, a slug of galbanum, and a subtle mossy/woody background. I love oakmoss and mourn its disappearance from modern perfumery, so for me to appreciate whatever is creating the mossy notes is a big statement. This is pretty much the only modern chypre that actually smells like a chypre - in fact I'd swear there's real oakmoss in here. Each one of the classic Lauder chypres I mentioned has one unique note or accord that distinguishes it (i.e. Aliage's peach, Azuree's leather, etc.). Lauder continues this tradition with the gorgeous jasmine note that overlays the floral chypre structure. The jasmine note is rich, sweet and downright beauitiful, and the mossy/woody background balances the jasmine perfectly.In response to Asha's excellent review, I absolutely see the similarity with Chanel Cristalle EdT and would go so far as to say that JWM is a sweeter, modern version of Cristalle. If you're either not a fan of, or not familiar with, classic floral chypres then you're likely not going to either understand, appreciate, or enjoy Jasmine White Moss. This will likely only appeal to more sophisticated and experienced noses. It's most definitely wearable by guys but would be beautifully feminine on a lady. I'm going to explore buying myself a bottle. JWM is a HUGE success - as a modern chypre and as a fragrance in general.

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White MossThe banning of oakmoss as an ingredient is creating some interesting by-products as perfumers try to compose chypres without using the out of favor ingredient. This is leading to a renaissance of chypres being composed as the creativity of these artists is being challenged. One of the latest and best examples of this trend is the third release in the Estee Lauder Private Collection, Jasmine White Moss. This 2009 release is, according to the press materials, a co-creation of Estee Lauder who had been working on this in the 80's and it was re-discovered and finished by her granddaughter Aerin Lauder. I think this explains the feel of Jasmine White Moss as a cross between a strong floral 80's scent and a cleaner more modern 21st century creation. The top of this does go on with a huge floral bang reminiscent of that 80's style. What is nice is where one of those 80's powerhouses would have kept you encircled in that floral cloud; Jasmine White Moss allows the sun to shine in a bit and break up the floral fog. What shines in is what is called in the notes, White Moss Mist. I'm not sure if I know what that is but to my nose it smells like clean fresh oakmoss right out of the package. What that means is this accord has the ability to add some of the depth of oakmoss without some of the funkier aspects that go along with it. It feels like those elements have been left behind in the chemistry behind composing a replacement for it. That doesn't make it smell bad it makes it smell different like a fresh version of oakmoss and in Jasmine White moss it creates a brightness in the heart which I find captivating. Jasmine White Moss stays firmly floral and white moss for most of its development. I get some patchouli and vetiver very late in the drydown but this scent is very much what it says on the bottle. Jasmine White Moss has above average longevity and above average projection. They say necessity is the mother of invention, in this case it looks like Estee Lauder might have been the grandmother of invention for Aerin Lauder and the invention they created is quite beautiful.

Not the best judge as all these oakmoss (or "oakmoss," I guess) centric fragrances smell really alike to me. The jasmine doesn't really register except maybe at the open, after which all I could do was compare it unfavorably to No. 19.Worth a try, but probably not worth the price point. The detailing on the bottle is also not as good as the photos make it out to be.

I've read a lot of reviews of Jasmine White Moss on the net and quite often it seems criticized for what it is not rather than evaluated for what it is. In today's world it's not a chypre with real oakmoss, it's not Cristalle or Miss Dior or any of a number of other perfumes, it's not a French perfume by a great French perfumer, it's not a vintage perfume, it's not an indolic jasmine scent. What it is is a citrusy, green, floral, aldehydic "modern chypre" with a lot of zest and considerably more sophistication than other mainstream perfumes on the market today, with a tip of the hat to some French chypres of the late '60s and '70s. The latter vibe is something I thought I'd never smell again in a new perfume. I doubt we'll be having many if any classic chypres coming down the pike any more, and natural jasmine is meeting a similar fate to oakmoss. Given the reality, I'm delighted to be able to enjoy a perfume of today that has some of the elements of the zesty, woody variety of chypre (as opposed to the more smooth Mitsouko variety) translated into a very uplifting and enjoyable scent that I consider among the best of today's offerings.

The top notes are rather bright, aldehydic, and citrussy, backed by a vaguely "fresh" accord that persists through the fragrance. In the heart and base it takes on a certain sweet mustiness; not quite floral, and certainly not natural, with a sharp, soapy, chlorinated edge. I've tried this three times now, actively trying to like it - or at least smell what the previous reviewers smelled - to no avail.If this is the moss of the future, then count me out of the chypre genre. It's not even a case of authentic versus synthetic... It's like being fed packing peanuts as opposed to the real thing. As for jasmine, it's simply not there. An utter failure.

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss EDPNotes: Black Currant Bud Absolute, Galbanum Absolute, Bergamot Absolute, Aerin's Jasmine Sambac Absolute, Estée's Ylang Ylang Absolute, Estée's Jasmine Absolute, Violet, Orange Flower Absolute, Orris, Patchouli Heart Absolute, Vetiver Absolute, White Moss Mist Absolute (an Estée Lauder exclusive) (From the Estee Lauder web site)The notes list is a green floral chypre lover's dream, and this fragrance truly delivers. The top notes start with bright citrus and galbanum, a combination of stem and fruit. The citrus is not especially juicy, rather, it gives a fresh, sunny effect. The galbanum is not overly bitter or strong, and has somewhat of a grassy smell. There is a urinous edge to the top notes, probably from the black currant bud. It does not offend, though, and ends up being more of a support note to evoke the softly indolic florals to come. Soon after application, a Diorella-like overripe melon note emerges. The meaty quality of the melon note is quite a bit more subdued than in Diorella, and is also not nearly as deep. Along with the overripe melon, a beautiful star jasmine comes forth. I am not sure I have ever smelled a Jasmine fragrance that truly captures the scent of the blossoms from a living star jasmine plant, so I find this quality extremely enticing. Star jasmine has a heavenly odor, and to capture it in a fragrance that can be enjoyed even when the blossoms are out of season is impressive.The mid notes carry the overripe fruit and jasmine, and are joined by some moss and powder. This is a lovely direction for the fragrance to take as the powder note brings a little bit of sweetness to the already ethereal greens and white florals. I imagine there must be some vanilla here, although it is not listed. The Jasmine stays heady but fresh, and never takes on a rotten tone as some jasmine absolutes do. The drydown is not overly herbal, in fact, I can't really discern any vetiver per se. To my nose, the base seems to be about orris, subtle moss, vanilla and maybe some light resins such as benzoin. Projection is moderate, and longevity is good--a liberal morning application lasted well into the afternoon, and the scent lasted 24 hours on paper. This fragrance is a must try for fans of Chanel Cristalle, Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps d'une Fete, L de Lubin, Dior Eau Sauvage and already mentioned, Diorella. While it does not capture my heart in the same way that Le Temps d'une Fete or Diorella does, I find that JWM outperforms Cristalle EDT/EDP and Eau Sauvage for longevity. Compositionally it develops with grace and ease, unlike the re-release of L de Lubin.

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