Reviews of Premier Figuier by L'Artisan Parfumeur

The best natural fig interpretation that I've ever smelled (tried about 8 so far), the first hour feels like plucking a fig leaf, and crushing it in your hand. You can definitely get the fig leaf milky sap and greenness of the leaf. This lasts for about an hour, and then it progressively turns sweeter and more woody.

Honestly, I'd say the the introduction of wood and toffee sweetness makes me perceive it as stronger after it dries down, compared to the opening. At the same time, it's by no means overly sweet or aggressively woody, it's superbly balanced and soft.

Gender agnostic. Reminds me of some kind of iced tea, but I can't quite pinpoint it specifically. Makes me a bit hungry. One of my absolute favourites. Still projects very well 5 hours into wearing it. It's a fig tree in a bottle. I would even say that it is very reasonably priced for what it does, compared to what you get with other niche brands. 10/10.
10th June 2023
The smell of fig trees under a blazing sun.

It's realistic, but this kind of literal smell is a retrograde step.
It harks back to the simple naturalism of pre-synthetic perfumery, and the days when perfumers could only copy natural smells and not interpret them.

Fig makes a good parfum d'ambience but it's a bit boring as a fine fragrance.
6th June 2022

Alchymia. Perfumare. Magnum Opus.

I can't help but think that Olivia Giacobetti named this composition "Premier" Figuier either consciously being aware, or subconsciously feeling that this a first attempt and take on the fig theme, perhaps even a draft, with Philosykos completing the process.

Be it as it may, on my skin this scent quickly develops into a light and pleasant fruity aroma with predominant peach vibration. Interesting enough, the first inhales of the fragrance, while being close to the fig, already hint towards what will follow.

As mentioned by others, on my skin this perfume also shows more feminine characteristics. But this is not the reason why I can't fully stand behind it with a positive rating. The reason is that the fig just disappears shortly after the opening, and the perfume is transformed into an elegant and innocent peach scent which, however, is nothing remarkable.

That being said, respect goes to Olivia Giacobetti's sincerity and boldness for this honest and direct take on the fig theme.

I don't hold longevity and sillage as key factors in a perfume, the former assessing the perfume quantitatively, and the latter – by its external impact. My perception and communication with perfumes are based mainly on the quality of the essence and the way it affects me internally. If you are interested in the longevity and sillage aspects of "Premier Figuier", please kindly refer to other reviews.

L'Artisan Parfumeur, Premier Figuier:
Composition: 6/10
Complexity: 4/10
Development: 4/10
Naturality: 6/10
7th September 2021
Musty, milky, and greenly vegetal-fruit on opening. It quickly developed into an artificial sandalwood fragrance, overpowering the verdant and jammy, deep fig. It's still there, just muted next to some aged flowers and almond powder. If the titular note would stay present throughout and have a backbone, I'd like it more.

This has been lauded as one the most loved figgy fragrances...I'm simply not feeling the hype and will leave the superlatives to those who are in love. Longevity is so so, about 3 hours. Sillage was moderate.
24th September 2020
Singularly focused on evoking its subject matter, Premier Figuier offers up a green, earthy, bitter, salty, sour take on fig that becomes increasingly milky as it sits on skin--which is to say, a very realistic take on a fig tree--without the ornamentation the fig note is so often buried under to make it less polarizing.

Premier Figuier is refreshing and subdued and intricate, with discreet presence and limited longevity (five hours or so).
14th September 2019
A fairly unimpressive fig, and I would have given it a neutral score but I detected a particular sour milk note which I recognised as one of the very few perfumery ingredient smells that I detest. There is a strange dusty matting (almost jute like) note in the dry down which shouldn't be there either.

After a less than inspiring opening, a rather disappointing end. Shame.
3rd September 2019
A gorgeous figtree, obviously, with all its milkyness, fruitiness, bitterness, sweetness and greenness. But a figtree anyway.
19th April 2019
A generally nice scent, and the sandalwood drydown lasts a long time without becoming overwhelming (as sandalwood can on my skin). The initial burst of fig is lovely. However, you can get pretty much the same scent from Pacifica's Mediterranean Fig for a fraction of the cost.
16th August 2016
The woody-milky-earthy tones at play here make me think of a prettier version of genmaicha. Not the kind of scent I'd sport but this is an undeniably well-represented fig.
4th January 2016
This has the same cool, leafy fig as Philosykos in the opening, but is somewhat less woody. It develops & fades more quickly too, becoming sweeter, creamier & fruitier within the hour, & reaching the coconutty stage around three hours in. It fades almost to nothing after five hours.
This is a lovely fragrance, but its lack of tenacity frustrates me, & for this reason I much prefer the Diptyque.
8th July 2015
Darvant in his/her review on this page describes the stages of Premier Figuier perfectly. The dry pungent opening, the creamy coconut middle, the nutty milky dry down.

Supposedly this deserved its name as being the first scent to primarily focus on fig notes. As such, it is an admirable original. Unique and totally likable.

Turin gives it 4 stars - it deserves 5 - and thinks Miss Moneypenny's daughter might wear this well.

A perfect scent for summer wear, especially towards cocktail time on the terrace above the beckoning ocean. Whenever I wear it, I think of Bermuda.

The Lili Bermuda scent company could do well to initiate a fig scent of their own. Until then, this will do nicely.

Highly recommended and respected for luscious originality.
26th June 2014
I was surprised by how green Premier Figuier is! I expected something fruity and thus sweet, but (at least on my skin) this is rather vegetal, even chlorophyllic. It is figgy of course, but more leafy than fruity. The drydown is dry and woody. Like many L'Artisans, a wonderful mood scent. It puts a smile on my face.
5th March 2014
Form the word 'go' I get fig, a fruity fig with a greenish undertone in the drydown. Later a dried fruit note is present with a whiff of coconut on my skin, but the fig plays the main rôle. Adequate silage and projection with just about three hours of longevity. Not a great development on my skin and somewhat unexciting, but a nice first phase for the fig's quality.
11th January 2014
A Few Figs from Thistles So, caveat: I have absolutely no idea what a fig tree smells like, let alone a fig leaf. I live in New York. I've been lucky enough to vacation in the south of France, but I was 12 years old then and busier locking down my first kiss from a cute French boy (score!) than roaming around smelling fig trees. I regret nothing! Still, I wonder if the whole "fig leaf" thing is a bit of poetic license; my assumption has always been that one takes the milky almost sickly sweet scent of ripe figs and balances it with green and woody notes. Again, this is because I have no earthly idea what a fig leaf actually smells like. All of you who live in Mediterranean countries: I am supremely jealous. But I sampled L'Artisan's take on the scent hoping to get some insight on the subject. After all, if it's good enough to cover up Adam and Eve's "interesting parts," it's good enough to wear, amiright? The scent opens strong, very sweet, and a bit synthetic. The Hubs said I smelled like organic chemistry lab on ester-day. That's a nerdy way of saying I smelled like a fruit bomb. It's fair to say I don't wear many fragrances with fruit notes in them, so fair enough. What makes this a great summer scent is the creamy coconut that pervades. From my reading, fig leaves have an inherent coconut note, which seems geographically strange, but explains why the accord works so well here. Coconut always hits a happy place in my brain because I love the beach and Banana Boat suntan oil, but here it and could amp the sweet up into cloying territory. And it does, but just barely, and mercifully, briefly. But once the Fruit Loops die down (for me, at about 5 minutes), there's a woody floral accord that emerges that buries the sweetness and makes the fragrance a true joy. The coconut continues, but transforms from sweet to woody and creamy. I'll admit, from other reviewers, I expected something a little greener, which to my mind translates into "more sophisticated." The green is there, but it's a whisper on me, and takes its time making its way to the stage. But as it dries down, it really does start to feel less like something that could've started life in a pink plastic bottle. I've heard tell this is unisex; it seems a bit too sweet for that kind of duty to me. But on someone where the green is more green and the fruit is less ripe, I can believe it. I love that this last for a while, especially in its creamy, figgy, nutty coconut territory, because its there where I feel like the scent graces my skin like silk. Something must get musky in there, because I get I bit melty as this thing dries down. Then again, I may just be thinking about classical statues and paintings, chastened only by an artfully placed leaf. Pros: Worth the dry-down waitCons: Gosh, figs do smell sweet, don't they?"
22nd July 2013
Interesting that this fragrance is flagged as feminine here while it's actually included in the male sample selection offered by the house. And I know we always say that gender for a fragrance is not that relevant really.. but guys, it takes a woman with quite a thick skin to wear this for the first couple of hours when this fig exerts its most intoxicating power..not that a man would be necessarily able to pull this off any better, by the way...After that, I could see how the softer drydown suits a woman better than a man..

Gender discussions aside though, I'm not fully convinced..the opening is just too strong to be worn by anyone in my view..while the finale leaves you wanting more..a better balance, that's what I guess this fragrance is lacking.

Still, the many facets of fig it explores make it an interesting scent, worth giving it a try at least.
28th January 2013
Not a stream of words to toss about it and the fig based fragrances around; Premier Figuier starts vegetal and barely aromatic with a blooming up earthy fig note, than in a second stage the rooty-grassy figgy aroma starts to become more milky, sticky (with its notable galbanum) and exotic with hints of ambery coconut, balsams, almonds (or may be is just the olfactory  feel coming from the coconut) and woods (probably sandalwood and cedarwood). In this final phase the smell is milky-lymphatic , pleasantly nutty and a bit acid. The juice projects out in a linear way its aroma till the end and despite its creaminess preserves hints of citrusy "umidity" and cloudy muskiness. A tasty, averagely creamy and finally unrealistic fig prominent fragrance neither close  to the sharper and greener (slightly boozy) Heeley Figuier nor to the musky-ethereal  Ferragamo Pour Homme or Ninfeo Mio. Extremely balanced as proper to the Olivia Giacobetti's wonderful creations.
25th June 2012
I have worn this fragrance for such a long time that I find quite difficult describing it. It's just a part of me, the scent that sometimes my skin assumes- apparently by its own will!- in summer… I realize that such a description could be of no use at all for other readers, so I'll try to do something better. Imagine a little object: it has the shape of a fig, maybe with a cut in the skin, hinting to some milk and juice leaking out, suggesting the deep pink moist flesh of the fruit, but it's made out of creamy sandalwood, rounded by traces of ligneous and polished sweetness of almonds and coconuts. It radiates an intensity, a kind of urging warmth, evoking hot summer days drenched in sunshine. A beautiful and inspiring fragrance, very easy-going and with a decent lasting power.
24th June 2012
Premier figuier opens with a burst of joyful impressions that come together all at once. It is sunny, bright and juicy. Green and fresh, it manages to be somehow dry while also being sweet. The first note that striked me was coconut, but that is when the fragrance is dabbed. Otherwise, when sprayed, the crushed fig leaves become prominent. Then you get lime, fig and sandalwood. It also has a sunscreen note that I find quite appealing.

Compared with philosykos, I see PF as being warmer, fruitier and I would describe it as more friendly. While Philosykos is an impersonal and objective fig, PF has a spontaneity that the former lacks. Maybe this comes precisely from the fact that, being Giacobetti's first, it perhaps has been composed with less skill, but with greater abandon.

Tip: Sprayed on clothes, I get a decent longevity, but practically no sillage.
10th August 2011
This scent actually lasts quite a long time on my skin! I find it strangely appealing and especially appreciate the drydown.I love the smell of figs and detect an almond note in here somewhere (or maybe its the coconut.) Anyway, I would wear this in the summer months with pleasure and feel it is a beautifully constructed scent with quality ingredients.
23rd June 2010
Straight away a warm ,rounded fragrance ,almost almost gourmand in deliciousness but not sweet. Whole ripe sweet figgy fruit ,hints of green-the almond coconut comes through with the fig from the start.Hints of dried furit just help this lovely scent along its way.Slightly smokey too,gorgoeus sandalwood drydown just enhances this fig experience.
26th May 2010
In this bottle, we're meant to find an entire fig tree-- leaves, fruit, bark, sap. Instead, I find something much more suburban-- the scent of privet hedges in summer. Glossy dark leaves, white blossoms humming with bees, a sickly, sap-green fragrance that only sweetens after several bitter minutes. Rather than be disappointed at the absence of promised exoticism, I am charmed at discovering a cherished smell from childhood. Does it translate well on skin? Absolutely. This perfume allows the wearer to carry summer with them everywhere, at all times of the year.
30th January 2010
PREMIER FIGUIER starts off verdant but gets subtly vegetal with a creamy and nutty undertone along its development. Not a bad option for summer for this is a unisexually appealing scent with an an air of casual nonchalance about it. The only problem I have with it is its poor sillage. Although this is something I've come to expect from L'Artisan Parfumeur I still wish it projects just a little bit further.
6th November 2009
This is a youthful, cheery, sappy-green sort of scent. It has a very green fig, leafy opening. This quickly is followed by some good wood and bark notes. The coconut adds a creamy, tropical aspect to the scent. This settles into a creamy woody scent, with continued hints of green fig and a developing lovely sandalwood note. It is only slightly sweet, so it is suitable as a unisex scent.
17th August 2009
I had already fallen in love with figs before I came to this classic - my becnmark was the equally satisfying Miller Harris Figue Amere. Figs do well on me - this one in is creamy and vigorous at the same time. Figgy from the start with a nice green overtone and hint of citrus over woods...wonderful dry down and respectable longevity if a bit short on sillage.
4th July 2009