I appreciate Atelier Cologne’s professionalism, only in a different direction – their skill in promoting an image and idea through design, marketing and PR. As to the substance at hand – the art of perfumery, I find the results with their “Sunny Citruses” line lacking. Here is what they do:
1. A powerful blast of fresh and very naturally resembling citrus(es).
2. Playing on the “naturality” notion.
3. Creating a story.
The first aspect is self-explanatory and characteristic to Atelier Cologne, so credit where credit is due. The third is inevitable for any Perfume house (and rightfully so), especially niche. It is the second that I have an issue with. As a lover of natural perfumery, I know what natural perfumes feel like, and how they behave, and it makes me very uncomfortable to witness such marketing tricks. They even put specific “%” of naturality to make it more believable… Really?
Be it as it may, there are exceptions in the “Sunny Citruses”. I do have an appreciation for “Orange Sanguine” as I explain in detail in my review of it, but that appreciation is more peculiar, it is predominantly conceptual. And I am glad I find another exception here with “Pomelo Paradis”. I say glad because, ultimately, I don’t want to be negative, but I cannot lie to myself or any possible readers, about how I feel. I do read reviews and know how a more stringent and in-depth review can be very helpful in comparison to the more lenient ones.
Back to the point. “Pomelo Paradis” opens as a very straightforward pomelo/grapefruit aroma. It is sweet, somewhat bitter and not overly complicated. A case of “less is more”. And of “what you see is what you get”. You shouldn’t look for anything more. I, for one, do not detect the vetiver and amber listed in the base notes.
In the second phase the pomelo smell is taken by a much more synthetic-metallic structure, which ultimately settles into a cloying but bearable sweet bubble. You can temporarily outwit that second synthetic phase by spraying more of the perfume in order to keep it running only on the pomelo note. Then again, this is will be a more expensive procedure (it was in this fashion that I finished my 1.2 ml sample in about an hour). Admittedly, the synthetic structure is not as formidable and aggressive and I think most will find it tolerable. It also doesn't seem to last too long. As for the final sweet bubble – relatively subdued and also tolerable; only be prepared to live with it for quite many hours. Overall – and despite the impression that might have been left from what I said above – “Pomelo Paradis” is a pleasant and nice aroma, true to its claim, and very amiable. Giving it a negative rating just feels too harsh, mean and unjustified. Yet, it is nothing special. But on a special price. Hence a neutral rating.
This is just horrible. The grapefruit hit up front is okay, even if a bit 'uncanny' in its impossibly unnatural brightness... but it rapidly degenerates into something that smells like boiled sweets. There is a sort of almond note at some point and something slightly musky, but really boiled sweets is it. For once I am begging for it to be over, not wanting it to last.
The opening blast is bright, fresh and hits the pomelo note very well, veering towards a rich grapefruit with a strong tangelo aroma.
The top notes evaporate after a couple of hours, and the drydown develops an orange blossom aroma, with a bit of blackberry thrown in very briefly, some black currant and with hints of a somewhat negligible rose and a somewhat perfunctory neroli on me.
In the base I see the addition of an amber not that is very restrained, together with some vaguely woodsy notion in the background.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.
The lovely top notes of this summery creation stand out for their realistic, albeit artificial, depiction of the citrus fruits, but the rest of this composition of a bit on the mediocre side and too nonspecific, but overall this scent is quite nice. 3.25/5.
This is a great fragrance! Pomelo Paradis smells just like you cut open a ruby red grapefruit and laid it over a fruit salad outside by the garden. It's juicy, natural, and completely fresh. The drydown takes an unexpected turn and rather than opting for a typical base of white musk and wood, Paradis incorporates a sweet amber accord that just gives it that soft, luscious sort of conclusion, which is definitely a welcome twist as far as I'm concerned. Projection is solid for the first hour or two, and close to the skin thereafter. Longevity seems about 6 hours. This is hands down the best grapefruit-centered fragrance I've experienced and possibly one of the best fruity fragrances as well. It also makes the room smell great after you apply it. Completely unisex, very uplifting, and totally upbeat, I'm recommending Pomelo Paradis as a blind buy to anybody who's looking for this type of scent. Thumbs up.