Pomellato Uomo
Sirpea (1990)

The search for diamonds in the rough compels me. Considering how unknown Pomellato Uomo is, my expectations were low. I was pleasantly surprised. It opens green and slightly fruity before flowers, woods, and leather take over. When the greenness from the opening subsides, the fruitiness does not, and this fruitiness combines with the amber in the base leading to a deep dry-down that is a touch sweeter than I'd want it to be. I did find it a tad cloying on hot days (25°C+). Pomellato Uomo is one of those fragrances that I initially liked very much, and then didn't reach for it often. A high quality aromatic nevertheless.

On my skin projection is low, and longevity is 4-5 hours max.

Masculinity Level: Vittorio Gassman as King Benny in Sleepers.

An obscurity even amongst those who have a fetish for bygone aromatic fougeres, Pomellato Uomo is one of the finest of its kind to reach my nose, with a woody and evergreen-like rosemary immediately greets me upon application, and an almost jammy fir accord follows immediately after. Also joining this chorus is a dreamy, rooty, herbal, accord. I spend a lot of time in the woods, taking in all its aromas, through fern-lined paths and the perimeter of meadows and their coarse, fragrant grasses. I am reminded of all of these smells, as if they were concentrated, distilled and bottled here.

There is this duet of jasmine and geranium in the heart leaning it in a floral direction, atypical of this style and adding further dimension. Flowers and conifers: I am in a wonderland. This is all underpinned by a spectacular leather accord and naturally, a generous helping of oakmoss. I also get somewhat emotional: I am reminded when taking in fragrances like Pomellato Uomo of what seemed to be a simpler past, there seemed more room to reflect and to be free from excessive distractions and stimuli. Of course, we know that this is that rosy intoxication called nostalgia bias. What does it really mean for things to be "simple"? This fragrance certainly isn't simple, and for that I am thankful.

Sadly, much like the attention commodity of today, this fragrance is scarce, but sample bottles do come up now and then. I'm grateful to have a friend to help me track down a bottle of this. It is one of my favorite fougeres of them all.

Brilliant classic fougere surprisingly modern still nowadays. Discontinued, i was lucky to find out an old blue-dark bottle on a bathroom shelve (nearby one of my friends' house) and secretly tested immediately it on my skin. I was bewilderd by a compelling dark musky/floral/patchouli with a touch of earthiness in the mossy, ambery and cedary background (great reminiscence about Gucci Nobile and Enrico Coveri Pour Homme). The initial metallic vibe is produced by the interaction of citrus, sharp floral notes and aromatic herbs. The soothing musk is the starring note to me and is combined with some floral notes as (i suppose) violets, iris, geranium and jasmine. I catch a more than vague resemblance with Narciso Rodriguez For Him but Pomellato Uomo is more complex, spicy, citrusy and botanic. Some green notes take part to the ceremony, may be a touch of mint, artemisia, juniper berries and lavender among the others. The juice is obscure and slightly spicy-orangy with a mossy/ambery and musky/woody dry down. I detect some vetiver in the base and probably a touch of leather (in this phase Coveri Pour Homme, Gucci Nobile and partially Givenchy Xeryus jump on mind for several of their characteristics). Really distinguished and masculine. Perfect for a night out in suit.