Nina Ricci (1984)


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About Phileas by Nina Ricci

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Nina Ricci
Fragrance House

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

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Reviews of Phileas by Nina Ricci

I suppose if you mix bergamot, lemon and green notes with juniper, it could approximate to lime.

I say ‘approximate to lime’; and for that, dihydromyrcenol would come in handy, which Good Scents describes as : fresh, citrus, lime, floral, clean, cologne, and weedy.

It sounds like a general description of Phileas to me – minus the dry woods, evergreens and dark leather base.

But - wait a minute, Phileas appeared in 1984, did dihydro exist back then? Yes, a patent for ‘the preparation of dihydromyrcenol’ was granted at Houston Texas to the Shell Oil Company, in 1981. [Wikipedia]

‘An approximation to lime with woody, green, and mossy-leather notes’ Phileas could be good for those who are looking for a lime scent that sticks around longer than a Mayfly; but of course, if a lime cologne did go on for ages it might well feel a bit linear, and lack depth or complexity.

Which is basically what you’ve got here; a rather linear, lime smelling thing with evergreens and a woody-leather base; or if you like, a drawn out woody-lime cologne.
As always, put it on cloth to spin out the head notes.
Sep 22, 2021

Named for Phileas Fogg, the hero of Jules Verne's 1873 novel "Around the World in 80 Days" (played by David Niven in the classic 1956 film), the intent was to create a fragrance using ingredients from all six continents (since nothing much grows in Antarctica, only the other six were included.)

The ingredient list is complex, but the overall effect is classy and refined, and tends more toward the dry herbal than the sweet balsamic Orientals. There is something elegantly Victorian about it, yet modern as well. It might be the perfect fragrance for Steampunks, since it styles itself as a bridge between the antique and the modern.
Jun 4, 2019

Juniper, aldehydes, balsamic notes, pine needles, pungent dry green notes, a peculiar salty and almost metallic base, leather, geranium. Spicy old crackling leather, squeaky gears, antique herbs with a woody/rusty feel. The mossy/balsamic note is beautiful, fresh, not sticky neither resinous at all – rather vibrant, windy, dry. The base is unique as well, a sort of soapy feel but not in the usual "somptous iris chypre" meaning – more of a domestic, dry soap, for instance the Marseille soap or other cleaners. Then it emerges a gorgeous leather note with liquorice, patchouli and roasted coffe notes – again all really dry, earthy and straightforward. Earthy and herbal in a totally unique way, with a salty/rusty feel which is just perfect – and also, the perfect olfactory depiction of the cultural reference for this (a fictional Victorian explorer: herbs, leather, rust, it's all there). Not even that complex, just unique and one of a kind. Absolutely worth the purchase – which I am given to understand may be challenging: I keep my bottle safe - and really elegant.

Apr 25, 2014

Complexity with a fougère developmentThe top notes are citrus with bergamot, herbal green notes, and the bitterness of juniper berries, all drowned in large doses of aldehydes. Still, is is a very good mix. The drydown becomes first class: carnation, patchouli, vetiver and pine, a classic middle phase. That merges into a base with amber and some tobacco, but the most predominant feature of the second half is a classic, intense oakmoss - delicious! The quality of the components is exceptional, the blending superb, silage and projection very good, and the longevity is stellar - over ten hours. One of Nina Ricci's best!
Aug 12, 2013

A true masterpiece. An aromatic scent that evolves through the hours, showing a different vibe each time. two thumbs up aren't enough.
Apr 2, 2013

Yum! The previous reviewers have captured the 'essence' of Phileas quite well, and so I can't add much except this:

The only currently available fragrance that immediately came to mind when I smelled it the first time was Wrappings by Clinique... although it certainly resembled a few others upon reflection.

Something to add to your collection, if you can find it.

Jan 29, 2013

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