Saddlery leather unlike any other, Peau d'Espagne is a remarkable old world concoction that presents itself boldly and unapologetically—this my own personal reference leather, not any suederal- and safraleine-packed modern interpretation. This is the OG leather, as it were.
It opens with what I consider a sensory thrill evokes Santa Maria Novella's apothecary origins: it is fiercely phenolic, medicinal, somewhat iodine-like, encapsulated in powdery-spicy hawthorn and carnation that amplifies into the heart. I almost imagine that it's the aroma of a cobbler shop in the 19th century, complete with wafts from the polish; bitter, aromatic, herbal elements shape this sensation. As we enter further into the heart of Peau d'Espagne, we get more of a classic saddle soap accord accompanied by what really seems to be a genuine civet note that animates this stage in the development. The base is the most beautiful, dry, dusty, dark cedar imbued with birch tar smoke.
Georgious scent! The vinyl sound is guite strong after opening settling down, but also the smokines then equally growing. This scent is it's best when combined with other monestrial scents like penhaligon's santorial (1:1), or with Tom Ford tuscan leather (1:1). I believe this cologne is one of the best leather scent, unfortunately it is hidden above the airport tax-free lounges!
It is a decent fragrance in the same ballpark as Givenchy Gentleman. Both are dusty, patchouli based leathers. Peau d'espagne also has added herbs for a pungent and strong opening. It is an Italian take on Peau d'espagne theme and smells quite natural.
However, I don't consider it in the same league as Knize Ten.