Oud perfumes are the new orientals. Like their early 20th century predecessors, their fantasy/reality ratio is sky-high. They are less overtly culturally offensive, but in terms of authenticity, they are just as much a bill of goods.
Francis Kurkdjian avoided the pitfall of attempting to mimic Arabic style. Instead, he treated oud like any other centerpiece note in western traditional perfumery. His Oud has some of the characteristic scent of oud materials, particularly the band-aid note, but the setting is unexpected. Rather than pairing oud with rose, syrup or smoke, Kurkdjian made a sort of woody-floral with a soft oud note. (Though the brand's list of notes doesn't include florals.)
Kurkdjian approaches oud as a material rather than a genre. He seems to have given it the same scrutiny he might ambroxan or rosewood, breaking it down into its constituent notes and evaluating the olfactory dynamics, seeing how it interacts with other materials. Some of oud's traits are underscored, others are played down. By treating it to classical western perfume analysis and technique, Kurkdjian assimilated oud.
In skipping the Arabian fantasy, he avoids the stereotypes of the material. Of the hundreds of oud perfumes to hit the market in the past 5-10 years, not many stray from a narrow interpretation of the material. Kurkdjian took a measured approach and demonstrated his signature talent for composing a perfume that is somewhat unusual but not at all strange. It smells deliciously of shoe polish + lipstick + floor wax. It is cool to the touch and reserved. Kurkdjian aligned oud with patchouli, a material with some similar characteristics, to create a new style of woody-floral perfume. Oud and patchouli are both woody materials that range from pitchy highs to durable, resinous bass ranges. Patchouli's camphorous chill matches oud's rubber band-aid note and both share a dusty, woody feel. They don't smell alike, but the behave similarly.
Classical perfumery has always had a loving appreciation of off' notes. The most effective materials of traditional perfumery tended to have a stark, asymmetric beauty at their core. Modulating them created a well-proportioned aesthetic that captured the interest and the imagination. Oud is well suited for a similar use–it is idiosyncratic and quintessentially jolie-laide. Kurkdjian didn't disguise oud, but he did make it his own and proposed a new, western style of oud perfume.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud is a romantic and saturnine "silent" musky oud's rendition with a central rose/patchouli saffrony accord and a general musky-honeyed silkiness surrounding all the elements. Super smooth chic velvet. This juice is never watery, wild, fizzy or provocative but exactly the opposite (smooth, hyper classy, velvety, silky, incensey-resinous and sophisticated). Yes, basically "barbaric" elements as oudh, patchouli, cedar and also saffron are (by a sleight of hand) in here alchemically combined in to an exquisite, finally honeyed and perfectly balanced piece of musky refinement. The final cedar is honeyed to die for. Not a complex or multifaceted fragrance but surely a dreamy graceful scent for us. A divinely soapy-languid "pure soul of oud".
Not bad. This is not too earthy (a positive thing IMO)and it will catch some attention. I didn't think too highly of this one initially, until I received a few compliments .A decent rose and patchouli note with a touch of saffron was added to this one. Well played. 8.5/10
A superb and distinguished fragrance; that captivates and allure, even the most discriminating of taste.OUD MAISON is one of the best oud scent indeed that when you walk into a room with it,you are sure to get everyones attention because you know that not other people will oud scent as great as you.just two sprays can boost your confidence.a artistic mix of opulent oud and the most gorgeous saffron by a genius FRANCIS KURKDJIAN.sophisticated, masterpiece, classy,gorgeous,expensive, special and charismatic.
The oud,saffron and patchouli are dominant to my nose.here oud is not as too overpowering as a lot of oud scents for me.the dry down develops soft yet distinctive and i could smell myself all day with it on.in fact when the perfume has reached it's final stage,and it is starting to fade away for good,it leaves an subtle,yet indelible trail behind.great on a cold and snowy evening use for everyone who wants to stand out in a crowd.if you want to feel something different, you should try this one.
This is by far the smoothest and most delicate oud perfume I've ever laid my nose on. I recognize several Kurkdijan trademarks here - the exquisite refinement brought to bear on sometimes barbaric materials (oud and patchouli), the taut balance he exercises between light and dark notes, and the meltingly soft and sweet base he likes to use. In fact, I think I would have pegged this as a Kurkdijan piece of work even if I were to have smelled it blind.
In the top notes, there is a burst of saffron, like a streak of sunlight across a grey sky. The saffron is used in much the same way as the golden narcissus in Lumiere Noire Pour Femme as a sunny, yellow counterbalance to the darker, woodier tones of the oud and patchouli. I love saffron as a note, and it features so heavily in this fragrance so as to categorize it as a saffron-centric fragrance than an oud one (which is more than fine by me).
The oud used here is an approximation of the Laotian kind, which is similar to Cambodi oud in its fragrance profile, meaning that it contains hints of cocoa and red berries, as well as plums and peaches. Typically, Cambodi and Laotian ouds are sweeter and fruiter than the Hindi counterparts, which are fiercely animalic and often quite sour.
The oud note itself is subtle, and so seamlessly woven into the fabric of the fragrance that it is hard to isolate as a note in and of itself. It is recognizable as oud, but it is completely devoid of any stinky or medicinal inferences that have come to define oud in Western perfumery. It smells faintly of old, dusty wood, cocoa, and more strongly of a red berry-like sweetness. It lurks beneath the saffron and the cedar for most of the fragrance, and allows the other notes to shine.
The base of this fragrance is incredibly similar to that of Lumiere Noire Pour Femme, which I would define as a smooth, slightly candied patchouli base. This is soft and nutty-sweet, reminding me strongly of the marron glace base to some of the older Carons (again Kurkdijan's innate French classicism shines through) and indeed some of the current Guerlains (the balmy, velvety patchouli base of Rose Nacree du Desert immediately jumps to mind).
What I like most and what I despair the most of in Francis Kurkdijan's work is exactly the same thing: his passion for creating perfumes that are perfectly refined, smooth, and utterly without sharp edges. Sometimes it creates an effect that is beautiful but almost too glassily perfect, like his Lumiere Noire Pour Femme. But here, Kurkdijan's classicizing touch is put to good use by subduing the oud's more loutish tendencies.
Indeed, this is so soft as to register almost entirely as a skin scent, and as such, does not have monster projection or even longevity. However, just as you think it's gone, wafts of it reappear, allowing you to enjoy it again, and it permeates clothes and scarves for days and days afterwards. It is one of the most beautiful-smelling perfumes I've smelled in a while, and I will enjoy my sample while it lasts.
A decent mix of patchouli and saffron with berries and rose giving background sweetness, while iso e super gives gentle wafts of smoke. Given time, the saffron backs down, letting an interesting oak that's both sawdusty and ashy come in and play up against the sweet patchouli. Hours later, I'm left with a chypre-ish mix of patchouli and mossy galbanum with residual ashy wood that's probably the best part of the day.
I don't want to give a negative review of a name, but it's worth pointing out that I would have considerably more respect for this if it had been sold as an interesting patchouli rose woody perfume instead of as a fake oud with a jacked-up price. In the end, this perfume is decent but trodding territory already covered elsewhere, though the transition from saffron patchouli to a chypre base is still clever and well-done enough to merit a thumbs-up, dumb trendy name and horrible price or not...
One of my favorite ouds, especially at this price point. Slightly medicinal oud but in the best way possible, it is addictive. Projection could be more but it is noticeable in a classy way all day, 8+ hours. I don't get cedar particularly strong (get creed royal ouf for that), but definite patchouli that complements the oud perfectly. A floral oud more than woody I might say? Tell me if I'm wrong
The 70ml extrait de parfum bottle is elegant and the sprayer is one of the best I've ever came across. Seems odd but strangely worth mentioning, it can do big and small bursts controllably. ALSO, get the lotion, or body cream, immediately if you like oud at all. It lasts all day on me smelling strong and fades to perfection. High quality lotion all the way around. I tip my hat to Mr. Kurkdjian.
Unbelievable...Oud and patchouli are prominent. It has an almost smokey, incensy, resinous vibe to it. The projection is quiet, but enough to know that it's there. It's very unique and elegant. If not for the price it would be a must buy for me.
Beautiful scent, actually perhaps the only "oudh" around that I like. Sensual, feminine, spicy, elegant, and masculine. Somehow dark, somehow celestial. Perfect blend of contrasts. And really classy. However, not worth the crazy price tag.
Wonderful Not worth the price tag (for me, anyway) but its beautiful. Refined, warm, sensual but without the skank, its probably "signature worthy" if the price wasn't prohibitive. It doesn't seem to last very long, however. About 3 hours, max, before turning into a gentle skin scent, which is lovely in itself.Pros: it smells really goodCons: Price!"
Irresistible - one of the best fragrances I've owned What a scent. There are three distinct movements in this Oud. The overall experience doesn't scream oud which I prefer in fact. You really won't be disappointed with this fragrance if you appreciate complexity and mystery. This fragrance exudes both. Worth the price in my honest opinion.Pros: Complex, smells like a $300 fragranceCons: because it is"
Terrific scent, beautifully balanced This is the first really expensive niche fragrance that I've owned. At £195 for 70ml (from Liberty department store in London), you don't want to be blind buying this - I tried it in the store then went and had a meal nearby before deciding to go back and purchase. My skin chemistry works really well with it (I've heard that it turns on some unfortunate souls) and it is deliciously complex and masculine. I own a couple of other oud scents; oddly, this one doesn't knock you on the head with oud (despite the fact that the fragrance is called "oud"!), but for me, that's a good thing. I know people who have bought fragrances where oud is the dominant note and you know what? They smell like sweaty dung. In their heads they've conjured up an image of this recent phenomenon of the world of scent as the "must have" part of their scent wardrobe and have basically over-ridden what their own senses are telling them. "I smell like the rear end of a warthog". Thankfully, as I said, Oud by Maison Francis Kurkdjian uses this now slightly clichéd note as a caress, an enticement, not a sledgehammer. It's beautifully constructed with a dark, inviting complexity that dries down with a smoky leatheriness, allowing the oud note to spiral around it and send out "come hither" signals. The oud is apparently real, rather than synthetic, and comes from Laos. It's refined and elegant. Projection is great, and longevity matches it, with one spray being perfectly sufficient to last all day, which offsets the high cost somewhat. I own around 20 fragrances and this one is currently sitting at the top of my list - I will wear it on special occasions, or when I want to impress, and probably always with a suit. It's definitely not a casual fragrance. So there it is - a masterpiece. Definitely try before you buy, but if you're lucky enough to be able to wear this, add it to your collection at once.Pros: Exquisitely complex, great projection and longevityCons: Price!
A smooth Oud
The Oud is smooth and restrained, and mixed with wood, saffron and a patchouli that again is smooth - no harshness in this scent on my skin. The drydown adds a bit if a gourmand-style sweetness, and the projection and silage are good. I get about three hours of longevity.
I am particularly fond of this fragrance. It's charming.
The saffron isn't sweet, and the patchouli is not filthy.
On top of that, thankfully, the Oud isn't at all absent.
It's not an Oud dominant, by any means, but it's there.
It has a long life on my skin, and it transforms all day long.
It's slightly ashy, but not burnt, and definitely not powdery.
It really does develop different characters with each hour,
But somehow it remains linear and faithful to it's simplicity.
Mason Francis Kurkdjian Oud.
MFK oud is a very easy to wear higher pitched but very smooth oud fragrancing. There are no bold or animalic notes of any kind. No harshness, no shrill or medicinal aspects. Why MFK Oud is so much higher in pitch than most oud blends is a mystery. It wouldn't surprise me if there were unstated florals such as carnation or osmanthus hidden within the folds of this beauty. The stated notes of the composition are: Elemi resin, saffron, Atlas cedar wood, patchouli, oud. The fragrance has a fine grained smooth sheen of a satin fabric milled of oud and lemony incense woods. There is a slight finish that is the very softest suede leather for the base. This is an unusual and well balanced fragrance that is so finely crafted it has me looking for claims it was quadruple filtered. How else can it be so smooth? rating: 4.0 / 5.
I am giving it a thumbs up - but in no sane mind ill dump 300 bucks on this period, unless ofcourse i win the mega lottery, beautiful scent - tao of sense, minimalist beautiful but somehow lacks x factor, its mostly linear - i get lots of oud sawdust (not the oud it self), almond milk lightly peppered - reminds me of the marijuana concoction which is a ritualistical drink in india called "bhang" - in bhangs you can never actually smell or taste the cannabis but its there - same here, its milky-oud-sawdust after the rain - like i said beautiful but not enough - perhaps when i am sick of all the dramatic scents then ill probably retire with this, for its rare beauty perhaps i would understand at the end of my journey...when everything gets just a bit too much but rightnow, i am carnal and i love my absolute pour le soir from mfk!
Oud immediately opens with the apparent star making itself known before anything else. This is not the semi-animallic smelling woody oud you might expect, but rather a watery, rubbery oud that is rather tame, synthetic and pleasant smelling. The oud remains into the heart, now pairing with the *real* star of the scent, saffron, which pairs up with the oud for the duration and even dominates to a small degree it as time goes on. The minimalist concoction uses patchouli as a supporting note to sweeten the composition just a hair with it too being a more "cleansed" patchouli and not the dirty variety frequently used. Projection and longevity are both excellent.
Oud is a good scent, but I must admit to being a bit disappointed considering its pedigree. Kurkdjian is way late to the oud party and as such considering his vast talent I expected something extraordinary here... and did not get it. Instead, Oud ends up being a pleasant smelling polished Western oud concoction that really is more about the saffron than the oud on skin to my nose. It is linear in nature and while I find it hard to fault the composition it lacks passion and is just another sterile entry on the long since departed oud gravy train. Maybe that is a bit harsh criticism for a scent that I am awarding a very good 3.5 stars out of 5, but I expected so much more from such a late entrant to the field from a super-talented nose like Kurkdjian. This one is worth a sniff, but at $300 for a 70ml bottle there are much better choices to be had for less money elsewhere.
Exquisite, long lasting, with good projection, not offensive. I think that this is a rather minimalist take on the theme of OUD ... it's rich but not stuffy. People swear that this is a sensual fragrance. I am not sure about that ... but it does make an impression. Next day ... it's still there! Beautiful.
There seems to be some dislike for Oud by Maision Francis Kurkdijan. I wouldn't say it's because of the scent itself, but many were expecting something different - an oud prominent scent. Like many, I don't get much oud from this, or if there is any, it could be muted or a variation I'm not familiar with.
Expect a sweet, woody scent done all in a transparent manner. Take the sweet facets of elemi resin (honey) mainly with cedarwood built all on a sheer base of saffron and patchouli. To the untrained nose, this could definitely pass as a refined, niche version of Angel Men/A*men. Though don't get this scent all wrong, it's done in a very opulent manner. Unlike many high priced fragrances I've smelt, this smells like $300. Worth every penny and long lasting to boot. One of Maision Francis Kurkdijan best.