Why do perfumers, as the shapers of our consciousness, have such radically different approaches to the path of creativity? Simple, because they are not creative persons! They are domesticated dogs to different masters!
Naomi is a designer, an original one, as designer she has her style. Her thought is not a kind of approaching to her mindset, she is not problem-focused, shes solution focused, and action oriented. This involves both analysis and imagination. In this case, she has analyzed and imagined her perfume, but was unable to make its design! For this the scent seems a way that she should go back to get to the end of the problem, to the solution: Or du Serail. It looks like a road leading to her and not to depart from her!
I dont know if there is a mood in this perfume, as the harem, or the gold, or if she was thinking about Topkapı Palace! It is impossible to understand! This is my point of you: here are working a creative person (Naomi) and a part time superhero (Batman).
Naomi (and) Batman made a selectio of raw materials, here is the yerba mate (ilex paraguariensis)! It seems mate or something like this one! The result is the same of Zebra Jungle by Kenzo (1998) The notes of bitter mate perhaps frighten everyone, and everyone seems to want to restore the balance of the perfume with tobacco or wood, honeyed scent and a little 'of synthetic flavorings to adjust the drydown! Zebra was focused more in citrusy and woody notes, but the result is the same nonsense. What mate need? Benzoin, tonka and ginger! This could be the canvas on which to express your art, Naomi.
This is the story!
"And that concludes our presentation of the Batcaves team. Any questions? Any orders? Yes, you the chick with strange clothes!."
"So you say you know how to use the mate?
Of course, the bat-mate!
And your bat-cave is right under Bertrand Duchaufour s house?"
"Yes it is, a right bat-observation!"
"And the only entrance is through a staircase connected to Bertrand Duchaufour s house, right?"
"So... May be you are Bertrand Duchaufour, then?"
"Ah! MM! Well, that's an interesting bat-question with a pretty...HOLY SHIT SMOKE BOMB!"
Booo-riiing! A sweet syrupy bomb built on the clash between dry, dark and earthy notes of tabacco-labdanum, booze (it wouldnt be niche without the boozy note, you know...), honeyed-pollen flowers and a hyper sweet, candied, Lutensian accord of fruit and resins with a balsamic aftertaste. All sinking in sugar. Basically something like Histoires de Parfums 1740 drowned in molasses, a clumsy galore of unrelated contrasts among dry tobacco, melted plastic and honey sweets, also fairly reminding some By Kilian's as other reviewers noted. Without all the sweetish stuff it would smell probably better, although it would just basically be a wannabe Fumerie Turque. As-is, in my opinion its just tacky and exhausting. I dont blame Duchaufour as he obviously just runs where they call & pay him, but I think he would make a better use of his talent (which he has, undoubtedly) if he just stopped working on a dozen of scents per year cause then, these are the results...
i really like this one, not quite as much as bois d'ascese (which is more challenging and generally impressive) but enough to buy it. i really don't get'coconut' at all, but a wonderfully balanced tobacco/booze/woods richness that never cloys or flatlines. duchaufour has stretched a bit outside his incensey comfort zone yet OdS bears his trademark heavy/sheer effect, which over the course of a good 8 hour lifespan stays incredible cozy, vibrant and just perfect for this season (fall!). at times this smells very close to something slumberhouse might do if Josh Lobb went a little more 'commercial' with something like Baque or Sova. tobacco scents rarely work on me (duchaufour's havana vanille also does though) but this excellent frag really connects to my nose. yummy!
I'm a huge fan of Naomi Goodsir's line of fragrances and Bois D'Ascese have gained a holy grail status in my book pretty fast but, unfortunately, I can't say I'm digging Or Du Serail as others do.
There's an hyper-realistic fruit opening which is quite ok (mainly berries and something else kind of green/ sourish) but then, sweetness comes into play giving birth to a boozy honeyed-tobacco driven middle phase which is possibly the farhest thing to my tastes. There's an overall coconut vibe going on which gave me an instant headache. There's nothing to do, with very very few exceptions made, me and gourmands don't get along at all.
The base shows sweetness to be slightly more in check but it's a sort of been there done that kind of woody-musky-ambery thing.
It's well done et all if you like the genre but I'm afraid it's a pass for me.
In the beginning I thought it smells like a Serge Lutens' reinterpretation of By Kilian Back to Black, what with a prominent candied fruit accord threatening to overwhelm its honeyed tobacco counterpoint. Thankfully it settles down fairly quickly. The overall fragrance is warm and sweet but never toothache-inducing, the ubiquitous woody amber in the base steering it firmly away from syrupy territory. There is also a boozy-woodsy quality about it that reminds me of Lubin Idole. Scent projection is more than decent but IMO the tobacco note could do with a little more heft.
While Or du Serail does not quite fit in with my preferred style (I'm rather averse to honey notes), there is much to admire in its light-but-sure-footed take on what must surely be a tricky genre.