The opening blast is quite idiosyncratic, with a restrained mandarine combining with an original sweet pea aroma that is underlined with a sweet and rich spice mix. The citrus is not of the stereotypically refreshing type, and the spices are of discrete and not intrusively intense or heave. A well executed top note triad!
The drydown turn more decisively floral, with jasmine, a lovely ylang-ylang and vetiver merging into a very pleasant potpourri, whilst in the subsequent base immortelle and white musk make an appearance, the musk being in the foreground.
The silkage is moderate, the projection excellent and I get seven hours of longevity on my skin. Overall a lovely spring scent, and a gentle spice worth trying for those usually not enamored with this gendre. 3.25/5.
Oiro opens up with an intensely aldehydic floral accord thats highly reminiscent of the early 20th classics from Guerlain . Its thick, heavy, and heady, and immediately lets you know that it means business. The blend sweetens a bit as Oiro develops, and the aldehydes give way to indoles as voluptuous rose, jasmine, and tuberose take up the front line. The viscous and decidedly erotic floral accord at Oiros heart is a close cousin to Mona di Orios provocative Nuit Noire, but its indoles are less aggressively dirty than Nuit Noires and so less suggestive of fleshy decay. Thats not to say that this is a clean scent not by any means! Oiro is as dense and weighty as Patous Joy or Carons Narcisse Noir, with nary a citrus or fruit note to add buoyancy. The drydown is powdery musk, thick vanilla/tonka and what smells like sandalwood, and endures for quite some time before it gently fades.
If the grand florals of the 1930s through the 1950s strike you as hopelessly old-fashioned grandma perfumes I doubt that youll enjoy Oiro. I can only imagine that Mona di Orio conceived Oiro as a tribute to the classic feminine florals and orientals of the last century, and I have to say it is very successful in mimicking their weight and tone. It seems to me a scent for formal occasions, to be worn by a mature and dignified woman in a satin and velvet gown. As a man I find it absolutely unwearable, and coming from someone who routinely wears the likes of Carnal Flower, that says a lot. Oiro is well made, and it refuses to bend to modern perfume trends. I suspect it may gain cult loyalty from certain connoisseurs, but I doubt it will be wildly popular, even by the limited standards of niche fragrances.
Powerful, deep, slap-in-the-head opening of jasmin, heliotrope and immortelle on aromatic cedar woods rich, carnal and daring, a bit morbid and overhelming with a hint of mind-blowing decadent mess, but that is how "power" scents work. BayKAT's review below correctly recalls L'Heure Bleue - different components, but that's the kind of feel. I smell a sort of weird, balsamic-camphor base which somehow amplifies and surrounds this making the texture almost resemble to the dense power of tuberose-based scents, to which this one in fact smells alike. Perfectly-balanced citrus notes (thank God) refresh the texture. As minutes pass it progressively becomes more and more mellow and sweet, settling down a quite natural powdery floral fragrance, still with a disturbing kind of cloying/rancid note with a weird resinous note floating over like a zombie crow, and an ambery/frankincense subtle base. I frankly can not like this completely, or better say, I am still unsure about when/how to wear this - bold, rich, complex, somptuous, viscious carnal flowers, still with nothing leathery/animalic to provide a darker counterpart: challenging for sure.
This is an interesting scent that wears differently me every time, and thus, this is my third review. This opens with a nice floral accord, ala l'heure bleue, and fans of that scent would surely. like this one. This maintains the melancholy florals throughout and is an interesting blend of 'sweet florals' and 'skanky basenotes'. (Think Lady Gaga doing a Disney Special) One thing that i get with every wearing now is the vetiver/musk drydown. this only starts to 'stinky' on me after 10 hours of wear, so judge your time accordingly. my one complaint with this note in any perfume is that it leaves your clothes smelling 'stinky' upon next wear, and i don't like to wash my sweaters that often.