Ethereal pine with a sprig of mint and a dash of citrus. A woodsier, greener sibling to Eau d'Hadrien.
As with many Goutals, very light and delicate, and very natural smelling.
Drydown is similar to Lutens' Chene, a resinous wood, with the tiniest drop of immortelle if you really dig your nose in.
This review is for the EDT. The EDP almost feels like a different fragrance altogether. It adds a big iris-amber-tonka base accord that feels like someone added a 2nd floor to their house. Sadly, the immortelle isn't any stronger in the EDP.
Obviously, I prefer the crisp clarity of the EDT, but YMMV, and as far as I can see on Goutal's website, the EDT has been discontinued, so the EDP must have its fans.
Interesting first impressions of Nuit Etoille by Annick Goutal. It does open with a green smell, just not the green notes I was hoping for. It reminds me of the stems of nettles freshly snapped...brisk, slightly herbal and perhaps hesperedic, which would lead me to believe that bergamot might be involved in the opening? The opening also reminded me just for a moment of Idyllwild by Ineke which has more of a rhubarb note, whereas Nuit Etoilee smells more of nettles. In very short order however I can smell an almost anise, licorice note but it comes across more fennel like to me because of the overall herbal quality of the fragrance. I am not getting any fir or fir balsam unfortunately. They were the two notes I bought this fragrance for, but it was a "blind" buy so I'm not upset because I've been doing this long enough to know the risks. This is an enjoyable fragrance and I do like it already. There is a very slight resinous quality and along with the licorice note reminds me just a tiny bit of Vikt by Slumberhouse, but Nuit Etoilee is much more transparent than Vikt and where I'm getting floral nuances from Nuit Etoilee, I get bay leaf from Vikt. This is a thumbs up for me as it is an enjoyable accord and one I will wear, it's just not the coniferous fragrance I was hoping for.
A natural, herbal citrusy spearmint almost set up in contrast with a dry, coniferous woody note that I initially mistook for incense. There's a singed, burnt smokiness throughout Nuit Etoilee that gives the entire composition a very bitter and gauzy gray dimension. On my skin this aspect dominates, and runs parallel to the mint. While it's an interesting combination, my favorite part of this is the opening five minutes before all the gray bitterness enters the picture. I find something about this fragrance depressing, it feels so desiccated and depleted to me, and when I wear it I just sort of watch that beautiful mint note from the beginning succumb to the weariness and dry desolation of its surroundings. It also burns my nose. I've discovered that I don't enjoy mint when it's paired with incense or smoke--Breath of God,Memoir Man, Burning Barbershop, Oriental Mint, Russian Tea, and now Nuit Etoillee--it's simply a combination that has never worked for me. Thumbs down.
Good citrus here, on top. It's sunny. Lightly tart lemon. Juicy sweet orange. The citrus lasts quite awhile before the fir notes mosey in. The fir wasn't very strong, for me. It was rather light. I expected some intensity. There are just enough "florals" here to keep fir from being too forest-like. I've been searching for a good, fir-centric fragrance; this isn't it. It is tame on my skin. It does remind me of an old-style cologne. I feel it leans towards unisex.
I applied tons of this - it never became loud, strong, or satisfactory enough to give this real praise. Sort of fizzled out. Too light, too boring - sorry, not enough character or pizzazz.