I've never nosed Ernest Beaux's original No. 22, which Rogalal describes as a digital remix/remaster of No. 5 that emphasizes high frequencies at the expense of the mids and/or lows. That makes this a remix of a remix (and it's been done yet once again for the EdP). No. 5 itself has been substantially tweaked, its once-notorious civet now a synthetic simulacrum mixed way down, the overall scent no longer evoking Marilyn Monroe au naturel. All things considered, Chanel has done a respectable job of balancing respect for its heritage with the legal and cultural demands of its times. Still, what to make of this Exclusif scent so far removed from its point of origin?
Fortunately, Chanel entrusted the revival of No. 22 to the older and wiser of the Polges, Jacques, rather than to his modernist son Olivier. JP has given us a respectable light aldehydic rosy floral that leans neither toward excessive sweetness nor faux wood aromatics. The result is both youthful in its freshness and old-school in its profile. Resolutely feminine in its cultural context, it's pretty without being the least bit vain, flattering without a whiff of seduction. As such, it should transition well from day to evening, though perhaps too demure for date nights.
I wouldn't wear this again myself, and would greatly prefer my beloved in vintage No. 5 parfum or EdC, but I'll give No. 22 this: it's the sort of simple thing countless perfumers have attempted and continue to attempt, but that few have achieved with comparable success.
By far, my fave Chanel and probably always will be.
I'm a big fan of the aldehydes here, that blend well with LOTV. Strong, with only 2 sprays. The top lingers - goes on and on.
The heart increases with "darkness" as I call it. Deep florals. Perfect, floral blend. Personally, I think the EDT is stronger than EDP but, I will wear either formula.
Rose continues into the base, melding with sweetly mild vanilla and a touch of Vetiver.