In a modern world full of citrus and ambroxan fragrances in the summer, New West really is the lost gem you've been looking for. With New West the reality of it is, any normal person who smells this is not going to think of it as synthetic or outdated. This scent is still a huge complement getter. This is back in the day...the days when Davidoff Cool Water, Fahrenheit dominated earth with "manly" or "aquatic" scents. I choose this one to be a little different. Yes you get that late 80s early 90s vibe here, which is a good thing by any measure. To me. New West is more 90s scent because it has a relaxed and outdoor influenced freshness that was popular back then, casual but elegant at the same time.
A very original composition, well blended with excellent evolution on skin. Smooth and long lasting with a strong presence even in the dry down. In the opening it's a citrus-watermelon symphony, but soon enough it shows it's true colors with a barrage of aromatic and woody notes. The middle stage is where a peculiar green edge makes it's presence. A combination of artemesia, pine, crisp juniper and bay leaf. The middle accord is quite weird. Almost confused as it's both quite green yet also quite fresh. The dry down being a mix off all with a pleasingly woody tone. It's what i would imagine a tropical oasis would smell like. All notes of fruits, green herbs and woods working in harmony, creating a very good aroma that is youthful but not juvenile, casual but not cheap. The easiest to wear cologne in Aramis collection.
I never imagined saying this: I enjoy the use of calone in this fragrance. This is probably due to the fact that it is one of the first (if not THE first) commercial fragrance that uses this aromachemical that has since become much-maligned for its overuse in the scents through 90s and 00s. Here, however, it is aqueous and sheer, suggesting a shade of watermelon but also enhancing the atmosphere of pine, juniper, and moss.
For all its ambition as one of the first aquatic, marine fragrances on the market, the Aramis DNA is still discernible, with hints of Devin in particular (the artemisia, caraway and leather accompanying the pine).
I really am surprised. I like this. A lot. Everything down to the translucent musks in the drydown.
I find myself thinking about camping in the Sierras right as the air has turned more dry and arid as the temperature rises and the rainfall ends. The needles of the trees are still abundantly green and have moisture but because of the lack of humidity have started to evaporate and the combination of tree sap and terpenes is this amazing sweetened fresh, dry forest smell that is captured in New West. Very impressive. I really connected with this scent, it is an all time favorite and for me connects me to dryer, sunnier spring days and summer nights. New West is a great add to have a warmer season fragrance that is less common and an absolute pleasure. It had a period of discontinuation and price inflation yet returned and is a great buy, currently in the $30 range for 100mll. At that price it was worth buying two. Thumbs up.
My review is for the newer clear bottle, not the original blue bottle. New West is sharp and green but to my nose and others it can be offensive. This is the only Aramis fragrance that doesn't work for me. I tried several wearings (just 2 light sprays) but with each wearing people around me would start sneezing. I thought it first was coincidence until the final time a bank teller who was assisting me went into a sneezing fit. I was embarassed finally realizing it was the New West. That was it for me. I gladly traded my bottle.
I've always liked this fragrance for some reason, despite it being a little outside my comfort zone and 10 or 15 years past its prime in relation to my age. I encountered it for the first time around 12 years ago in an Ulta, when I was new to the hobby and doing some sampling, looking to buy the first of what would become many fragrances. Even though I was probably searching for something like Acqua di Gio or Fuel For Life at the time, New West's prickly dry aromatic character stayed lodged in the back of my brain long after I sampled it. One random day 3 years later, and now up to my eyeballs in fragrances, I suddenly felt compelled to order it while browsing online. Its smell was still there in my mind, crystal clear, along with the image of its kitschy blue and yellow, Coastal-California-in-the-80's bottle, and when it arrived it smelled just as I'd remembered it. And I don't know exactly what it is about New West that gives me this connection where its smell manages to stay so vividly clear in my mind, but there's something about it that is totally unique and peculiar. It's listed as an aquatic–and it is–yet it's also dry as a bone, a pine forest with one side near the ocean, and the other demarcating the boundaries of a desert. It has the coarse, herbal masculinity of the classic Caron Yatagan, but wears like an unusual sports fragrance. It's mossy and prickly, vegetal and herbal, clean and crisp; dry and hot, but also light and breezy. These aren't contrasts as much as once tried and true symbiotic qualities that are no longer found so packaged together in today's mainstream, and they thereby create a masculine aquatic that screams 80's!!! but is still wearable, and FUN to wear today. I always refer to Dior's Fahrenheit as timeless–it feels just as cutting edge and unto itself now as it did in 1988. It doesn't age as much as it becomes more and more impressive with each passing phase and trend in men's perfumery. Aramis New West is NOT timeless–it clearly has its place in a bygone era and doesn't smell nearly as futuristic as it does cleverly nostalgic–but its still very likable and it's still useful. (I like to think of wearing it kind of like playing classic NES games in 2020. Even if they look out of place in the 21st century, they're still fundamentally great games and they're still fun!) So every now and then I like to wear New West, and enjoy it for what it is, and what we can no longer find out there on the Macy's fragrance counter. Of course, I don't know how I'd feel using New West in its current bottle style–it might just feel outdated, and it would certainly feel as if something had been lost. It definitely wouldn't be as fun. Aramis' decision to redesign the bottle and box (sometime between 2010 and 2013) was a huge mistake in my opinion. This isn't a fragrance that one should even attempt to bring to or present in a 21st century package, or as Aramis ended up doing, present in a bland, chronologically amorphous bottle and box. The blue bottle with yellow trim and 80's font was the physical, artistic connection between this fragrance and its past. And unfortunately I can't help but feel like a piece of its past was lost when its aesthetic changed. After all, would you rather listen to Depeche Mode through your ear-buds after a brief message from Spotify, or pop your old, double-sided cassette into a chunky Sony walkman and jam out? I'm no reformulation nut, and I very rarely scour eBay looking for discontinued bottles and boxes, but if you're considering buying New West, go with the old stuff here...it's worth it.
Performance is about 5 to 6 hours with pretty strong projection for about 2 and more reserved for the rest. Expect to pay between $1 and $1.50 per milliliter when going for the vintage in an unopened or gently used bottle.
I've adopted this one as my signature scent and wear it at least three days a week. It's unique in that as retro of a scent- I still often get asked what it is.
To me, the two most prominent notes in this are pine and patchouli and they are the notes that last throughout the day and into the drydown.
The opening is the only place mint can be detected, but it's gone very quickly. Within an hour, this turns into a green, woody aquatic with just enough aldehyde and calone to make it an aquatic by today's standard. The first few hours this is full of seabreeze, sunshine and ozone. It doesn't smell synthetic, and I think the heavy greenness of it is what keeps it so fresh. After about four hours this becomes a woody skin scent.
This has been discontinued on more than one occasion and looks like it's currently out of production. I hope it will make another return before I run out of the two bottles I've hoarded.
Perhaps more interesting as a historical landmark than a fragrance in and of itself, New West was the first aquatic fragrance ever release. That said, it's so green it's hardly what would be identified as an aquatic today, but that greenness feels more like watered-down Aramis signature DNA rather than the vivid portrait of late-1980s California the fragrance postures as being.
It's pleasantly refreshing, but in the world of 2019, New West does feel a bit generic in a dated sort of way (though anyone nostalgic for the early 1990s is sure to enjoy its effect).
Polo Blue would pick up New West's banner over a decade later, and it's the better-made scent.
This is a really nice aquatic fragrance that is supposed to smell like the California coast. In fact it was the first aquatic fragrance ever made historically, being the first one ever to use the calone aromachemical calone (which smells like the ocean). As for the scent, the opening reminds me of the same vibe as Aramis Havana but greener, but the drydown goes in a different direction. It smells to my nose basically of a soapy combination of pine and juniper notes, with ocean mist and aldehydes strongly coming through as well. It's very different and unique from modern fresh aquatics, and smells much more herbal. It's evocative of a seashore on a cloudy day next to a pine forest with a few drizzles of rain. It's a very melancholy fragrance. All in all, it's actually quite pleasant, and would pair west I think with Proraso Green aftershave. Projection is strong but airy (like other Aramis fragrances), while longevity is fairly good, projecting well for about 3 hours (but blooming in the high heat i.e. at the gym or in the summer).
Aramis New West for Him (1988), indeed. Here we have something of a missing link between the traditional citrus chypre that used to be the fresh and hot weather option for men, or just the de rigeur fragrance for men in Mediterranean climates, and the as-yet-to-be-coined aquatic genre that eventually replaced the citrus chypre in that role. There was a lot more new about New West than there was old however, so much new that the fragrance could be looked back upon today as being too ahead of its time for its own good, since it was not a major success. Aramis as a house was becoming known as the staid and mature man's fragrance brand, since every major release from the house that wasn't the original eponymous Aramis by Estée Lauder (1965) was either discontinued or something conservative like Tuscany per Uomo (1984), which wasn't what spoke to the up and coming Generation X. Estée Lauder had more or less quietly ended their relationship with IFF perfumers and longtime collaborators Bernard Chant and Josephine Catapano, the former of whom made pretty much every Aramis fragrance up until Tuscany per Uomo. They still had IFF perfumer (and future vice-president) Sophia Grojsmann, but it appeared that she didn't work on masculine-market fragrance briefs, so it was time for new blood. Enter Yves Tanguy and Harry Freemont, perfumers for Firmenich. Neither of these guys were quite as established in the industry just yet, but they had access to all the cool novel aromachemicals that Firmenich held under lock and key, including the original form of hedione and something called calone-1951 a.k.a. "watermelon ketone". This last one was a big deal, because Edmond Roudnitska (who often sourced materials for his Art et Parfum lab from Firmenich) was a huge proponent of calone-1951 since the fifties, but to no avail. All that was about to change, but actually not because of New West because again, it was just a bit too early to the show.
What makes New West so nostalgic, but also so fatally ahead of its time, is that usage of "watermelon ketone". By itself in low dosage, this stuff can produce the smell of fresh cut melon as seen in the Grojsmann-penned Calyx by Prescriptives (1987); but in higher doses, becomes far sharper and almost metallic-fresh. Thankfully, Freemont and Tanguy do not abuse it to that degree, although fellow Firmenich perfumer Alberto Morillas later would in Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger (1994), coincidentally another product under the Aramis umbrella (as it later expanded for a time to encompass designer licenses). Here is New West, calone-1951 plays the role usually reserved for bergamot oil in a chypre, and is then shaped by other aldehydes and dihydromyrcenol, a soapy-fresh watery note (but also metallic in high dosage) that had been gaining greater footholds in men's perfumery since the 1970's. Together, this "aquatic" note and this "melon" note formed the opening salvo alongside a speck of actual bergamot, to what is otherwise a fairly conventional chypre with a focus on herbal garrigue notes in the heart. Once you get past this wonderfully lush and juicy-fresh opening, a botanical assault of mint, artemisia, pine, oregano, bay, rosemary, sage, and caraway meet the nose. From there, a fougère-like lavender and geranium coupling appear, before moving through that classic hedione a la Roudnitska's Dior Eau Sauvage (1966), before landing on the base. Patchouli, oakmoss, a dry leathery facet, cedar, and some salty musks round out a fragrance that ends up too arid to really befit the aquatic tag it sometimes earns. There really is not much else out there like this, with a surf and turf vibe of windswept forest near the crashing waves of the sea. Wear time for New West is pretty decent, and you can get it to eight hours with a healthy application of at least a few sprays, while projection booms for the first few hours before becoming the skinscent it claims to be on the label for the rest of the time. Best use is summer casual wear or after a nice shower.
The real tragedy here is this stuff released the same year as Davidoff Cool Water (1988), which is a fragrance that through its downmarket reinterpretation of Creed Green Irish Tweed (1985) from the same perfumer who worked on it, gave birth to the aquatic genre we all know today. New West had one foot in the new and one foot in the old, but because the new part was so bizarre and unfamiliar, only people who really "got" New West enjoyed it. The marketing behind the scent played the same exotic trick as Tuscany too, claiming a Los Angeles address instead of the usual New York one, and labeling of "skinscent" was another gimmick borrowed from the days when Aramis called 900 (1973) an "herbal cologne" and Devin (1978) a "country cologne". Tigers can't change their stripes, I suppose. Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein (1989) snuck a bit of Calone-1951 into its top, but the material would not end up hugely popular until the mid-1990's, once L'eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake (1992) really showed off the molecule in a big way. From here on out, all bets were off, which then eventually lead to Calvin Klein to release a disturbingly similar Escape for Men (1993). Steve Demarcdo, the perfumer for that fragrance, looks as though he copied Freemont's and Tanguy's homework; but just cut out all the herbal aromatic shenanigans, going straight for the melon over woods and vetiver that was Escape for Men's big selling point as a tropical vacation in a bottle. Little-known Romeo Gigli would also heavily reference New West with Romeo Gigli Sud Est (1995), amping up the garrigue to insanely rustic levels while downplaying the calone-1951 in favor of more bergamot. By the time New West saw re-issue as part of the Aramis Gentleman's Collection in 2009, it was pure nostalgia for a decade it wasn't technically from, while being a punching bag for niche snobs who hated aromachemicals, especially calone-1951, which is something of an online fragrance community bogeyman among vintage purists. I love New West's retro-futurism to death, but I feel I am among a tiny minority in that regard. Thumbs up
Warning !Disgusting! .Worse than toilet freshener.Ozonic? No! Subtle? No! Any depth? No! Sickly sweet and super feminine. I bought some on the strength of reviews .lESSON LEARNED! Had to write this prior to going and scrubbing it off . Macdonnalds toilet smells way better. Very eighties , very heavy, sorry gotta go wash before I LOSE MY LUNCH.
Somewhere inside this spearmint and bubblegum oriental there's an aquatic trying to get out.
Spearmint and sweet bubblegum head up the profile along with herbal and green notes, and because this accord is linked to an oriental base they create an unsympathetic environment for the airy and salty aromatics. How can a perfume be salt watery airy on the one hand and sweet dry and seductive on the other, and still be coherent? Its like trying to catch a sea breeze in a boudoir.
New West for Him was probably, in its oriental phase, rather too feminine for some young men. The spearmint bubblegum note was also perhaps too frivolous for a Youth which was becoming more and more concerned with saving the whale, protecting Gaia - mother earth, and the environment in general. The gourmand direction of NWfH seems instead more attuned to the - by then - passing era of eighties style conspicuous consumption.
It was 1988, the year that - after a massive resurgence in popularity - the Beach Boys were elected to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. The same year the Surfing and Sun phenomenon known as Baywatch appeared for the first time on TV, and in perfumery Cool Water was launched. Together with others like l'Eau d'Issey and CK One it would sweep away the old school of Giorgio and Poison with a new wave of puritan perfumery.
In a time when all things marine were influencing popular culture, it was that other, distinctive and more legible aquatic that cleaned up. Cool Water rode high on the wave of an emerging post-eighties backlash that just wanted simplicity and cleanliness from a perfume. New West was too complex, a confused gourmand - oriental / aquatic which failed to articulate the spirit of the times and got left behind, largely to sink without trace.
Disclaimer : This review was done on a 7ml miniature with no box. The thick juice is amber coloured; it could be nearly thirty years old. It may be an original formula - some people say NWfH was reformulated.
On the other hand, this is for sure; in a head to head with vintage Cool Water, NWfH was noticeably different in overall character and clarity of the head notes, and this influenced the slant of my review. WG
I absolutey LOVE the opening of this. It starts off as a chypre with an aquatic thing for the first 5 minutes before it gets more green, more minty, with this awesome smokey smell of incense in the background. It hits you from many angles, but it's also smooth and balanced. Smokey, soapy, citrus, aquatic, chypre.
The dry down really sucks though, to me. It's like a stripped away resinous unsweetened amber.. kind of smells like beeswax, without any sweetness. Nothing from the top is even noticeable by the end. Bummer.
That said, since dry down is the longest lasting part of most fragrances, I have to have this nasty base on my skin for hours to come, so my rating from a potential 2 thumbs up goes to a neutral.
I have fond memories of this scent from when I'd first discovered it decades ago: Clean, warm, daring, exciting...lasting a long time. Better for spring and summer, esp. if worn judiciously as this one can be overpowering.
Is it just me, or does this smell like Sud Est by Romeo Gigli? It is a very good scent and smells like it came right out of the late 1970s or mid 1980s. It is unique, as Sud Est is unique. I love it and glad it is still being made by Aramis in the U.K. (fragrances made in the U.K. seem to have a great lasting quality, e.g. Estee Super Cologne Spray [now made in USA, but U.K. version seemed to last longer]). New West is definitely a go-to fragrance if you want to be told you smell great!
I wish perfume industry could learn something from Aramis.
- They make great fragrances. Aramis,Havana, 900, New West and Tuscany are masterpieces.
-They take pains to confirm to all the IFRA bans and regulations while keeping the fragrance intact.
- They sell for a song.
My advice to anyone starting out is to go and buy Gentleman's Collection (can be had for under $50) and then use it as a reference for style and quality.
About New West: A great scent for hot days. You can smell calone if you try hard. Others should learn from New West on how to use Calone. It also shares some of the Havana DNA.
Basically it is the evolutionary link between old school fragrances like Havana and the modern aquatics.
A must for all gentleman and at the current price a crime if you don't have a FB.
Wow... for the price and quality it is off the charts IMHO. To me this is a lighter version of Devin... Very clean and woody to my nose... oh and GREEN if that makes sense. Great scent from Aramis. Enjoy.
A blast from the past, literally. I worked in mens cologne in May Company, 1990-1992 in Glendale, California and remember this scent fondly. I had several samples and testers of this. In fact, I remember giving a lot of it away I had so much. So it sure is wild to see it going for $150. or more for vintage bottles on eBay. I've since dragged out my old collection in storage and found it, amongst many others. Smells just as I remember. I don't know what the new formulations smell like, but if they are anything like the old, I will give it a try.
New West for Him is alleged to have introduced the melon/cucumber aquatic aromachemical Calone to mainstream masculine perfumery. Given the over-reliance upon Calone for fresh marine affects in designer scents (never mind soaps and shampoos,) of the past two decades, it's tempting to deride New West for ushering a degeneracy from which men's fragrances have yet to recover. Yet New West bears no resemblance to the banal, chemical aquatic scents and melon-flavored fresh fougères that followed it. Instead, it is a relatively dry, herbaceous-aromatic fragrance on a mossy foundation, wherein the Calone note merely provides a contrasting moist chill. In fact, the play of geranium, pine, oregano, rosemary, and sage in New West is remarkably adept in evoking a sun-drenched California landscape. With its prevalent dry aromatics, pine, and moss, New West frankly bears much closer resemblance to Caron's Yatagan (also inspired by an arid landscape,) than to any of the 1990s masculine aquatics! Though I wish the drydown was less dependent on a commonplace pencil shavings cedar base note, I still enjoy New West as a unique and characterful composition, and I'm pleased to see it back as part of the Aramis Gentleman's Collection.
They still make this? Yeah, you gotta problem wit dat? New West is a hot mess of herbs, calone and moss (tree moss these days as oak moss is on IFRA's hit list). It's sort of an homage to the 70's (herbs/moss), 80's (calone) and even the 90's (skinscent). Furthermore, I find it quite similar to Caron's Yatagan albeit a touch lighter. Not the best from Aramis but still a worthy entry and a trip down memory lane.
A crisp, airy citrus and herbs affair that does exactly what one would expect of it. I feel certain this is what Navy by Dana wanted to be (and boy, did that fail). This is a bit like Horizon and Kenzo Pour Homme with the green, blue, and calone top but is more about the herbal and saline components than the others. Unfortunately it's also more grapefruity and the refreshing ocean air atmosphere disperses not long after application and New West quickly becomes a dry, bitter affair. Great hot weather scent but terribly short-lived..
Another winner from Aramis. So glad they brought back New West, Devin, Tuscany, and Aramis 900. All four are outstanding Classics.
New West is light, fresh, clean, manly and ideal for daily use or special occasions. I get many compliments when I wear this fragrance. Although I do like the original packaging better. I highly recommend this fragrance!
revolutionary aldehydic aromaticSalted watermelon rind overlays an elaborate aromatic blend of juniper, bay, moss, cedar, pine, lavender, mint, geranium, caraway and sandal with a dash Estee Lauder white florals, leather, patchouli, orange, bergamot and white musk. I wore it daily for six years while walking the halls of knowledge and never got bored: tremendous lasting power; great for year-round use; and, overtly American. Pros: handsome, cheerfulCons: aldehydes occasionally bothersome"