Nahéma
Eau de Parfum, Guerlain (1979)

I am tickled pink by the opening of Nahema. It starts as a conundrum, a dizzying swirl of aldehydes and dewy green notes, hyacinths, lilacs, and peach: a May fever dream. The suggestion of rose comes through in this kaleidoscope, almost holographic, sort of like if you turn an image you see its outlines through all the colors, lines, and shapes.

This arresting opening, after 30 minutes, somehow settles into the heart of rose, velvet petals, dewy tears, awash in balsams, escorted by the panoply of florals to its throne, in celebration of its lucid climax. The dry down reveals jammier facets, but most notably red wine and shadowy, supple woods, a mesmerizing evolution in a spectacular Guerlain composition.

Because I love Chamade and many reviewers claimed that Nahema was similar, I bought a sample of Nahema in the vintage PdT concentration. Unfortunately, to my schnoz, the only thing these two fragrances have in common is that they are both Guerlains.

I seldom dislike a scent this much, especially an older Guerlain. Nahema's opening is truly horrendous: a strange and sour, baby-vomit note that gradually slinks away, only to be replaced by a rather plasticky fake hint of peach. Slowly, a vague impression of a very peculiar, convenience store rose rises to the surface and loiters there.

Maybe the extrait is better?

I'm afraid the intricacies of this perfume are lost on me but that doesn't mean I'd give it a thumbs down. My nose is not experienced or sophisticated enough to appreciate this, although I did find this an overdose of rose (too strong for me). My body chemistry and tastes could have changed. Many of the notes listed are ones I really like, but this fragrance comes off as very heavy like vintage velvet curtains, and I'm not in the mood for heavy fragrances. I'm glad I had just a sample.