My review is for the EDP. My bottle is a miniature, it's part of the L'Artisan Parfumeur set, and I bought it new about a year ago.
Mure et Musc smells exactly like Ivory Soap Flakes. Pure, white, fluffy flakes. A big bowl of blackberry jam is somehow underneath it all. You didn't know you wanted to smell like blackberries and soap flakes but trust me, you do, you really do.
I'm still not entirely sure what a "musk" note is. I picture a Musk Ox. Whatever it is, though, Mure et Musc smells fantastic.
Even though the blackberry note is strong, it's balanced by the fluffy soap smell, so this isn't a gourmand. It should be safe for work, but I don't think it should be worn if you're going camping. It may attract bears.
Many perfumes have a notional pyramid shape but this one is like a wedge. The thin end is the blackberry note at the top. And then, as it goes, the profile widens out with musks, praline, spices and moss, woods, and a note of indole, which becomes green orange-flower leaves - not the petitgrain I had imagined. These novelties give some passing interest, and the drydown is nice on bare skin, but on the whole I find it a bit chemical, and a bit clunky at times.
To me, Meme recalls the poster drawn by El Lissitzky, Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge (Klinom Krasnim if you want to search it) and their fruity oriental is l'Artisan's Red Wedge, except it's purple.
Mûre et musc and mûre et musc extrême are very similar (more similar then eau d'ambre and eau d'ambre extrême from the same house, for example). The opening of the normal version is stronger, generally greener (like a plant liquor) and goes slowly towards the blackberry. The extreme version is a diesel. It's darker, evolving to something strong, still green but slightly sweeter. If I had to judge, I'd put mûre et musc in the male category and mûre et musc extrême in the female one.
Edit to add performances are very bad this fall...
A pleasant sweet blackberry smell but it is quite powerful. It lasts for ages on the skin, it was still there after a shower. My main issue is with it being billed as unisex. It's much too feminine for a man to wear unless wanting to advertise femininity. Not something I can wear to work without getting "are you wearing perfume?" type remarks.
Do you like blackberries or not? This one is just bursting with the stuff, with a small airiness that keeps the body from feeling too jammy, and a musky bottom a bit like leather to tether that sweetness. Certainly not my bag but a good performer for fans of simple scents.
I like Mure et Musc, but I like Extreme even better. It is a bit sweeter and I get the fruity berries in this one, where they are not apparent on my skin in Mure et Musc. Minimal sillage, close to the skin, and still holds a faint musk note at 12 hours. Yum.
As much as I loathe dumb fruity florals, I can't help but love the berry smell in Mure et Musc. I think the original version (which is basically a classic chypre with berries mixed in) is probably more wearable than the Extreme, with its weird rubbery smell. To be honest, I've been trying to fall in love with Mure et Musc Extreme since buying a bottle as a newbie years ago. Smelled up close, that weird rubber doll smell is just so odd, but to steal a phrase from Robin's review, "it sort of sinks in and mixes with my skin" and smells amazing in its sillage. As I've learned not to overthink it, I've come to really enjoy Extreme, so I'd definitely suggest giving it a try, though don't skip over the original version before you make your choice.
OK, I have lived with the Mure et Musc Extreme for three years now and finally feel like I can review it.
My initial impression was just that it was "safe". Something easy to wear, nobody would notice really, not sexy, just good and pretty smelling, light. Great scent for a kindergarten teacher or for situations where perfume isn't appropriate; it flies under the radar. But it is also, conversely, the perfume that I get the most comments of "sexy" on from men, oddly enough. Consistently.
I really, really do love this smell. It's unspecified berries, citrus, and musk, but the musk is animal enough that the perfume doesn't sit on top like clothing, it sort of sinks in and mixes with my skin, it smells human, not like I am a plant, or fruit, or flower; and the fruity smell doesn't ever get unpleasant or cloying even in deepest summer here.
At times I am really quite irritated by paying so much for what is, really, just an idealized body wash scent, except that it's SO idealized that it's damn near ideal.
A story - a few months after I'd been going out with the Boyfriend (I always wore the Mure et Musc Extreme around him, we hadn't had any perfume conversation and it's my backup smell for those situations) , one day he says, smelling at me: "you always smell so good." So I say "yeah, that's the perfume, the mure et musc." and he replies, "no, I don't think so, it's your shampoo or something, or just the way you smell, your biology, you smell so GOOD." He really didn't believe it was perfume.
That, to me is the genius of the Mure et Musc Extreme. It doesn't smell like perfume, nope. Doesn't develop, doesn't challenge, is not artsy or elegant, it just smells good, like I smell good.
I like this better than the original, the original is more sour and herbal and 'bracing' to my nose, this Extreme version isn't more extreme, it's just lower pitched, the berries are tuned louder but the overall impression is softer, rounder.
More potent than the original, it's true, but also seeming different in its composition. Whereas the berry-musk accord in Mûre et Musc is perfectly balanced, here things tilt decisively toward the sweet fruit. As a result, it loses much of Mûre et Musc's miraculous poise.
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" never was more apt.
The fruity floral isn't my bag. There are a few exceptions to this habit, notably the intoxicating Badgley Mischka. I'm not starved for fruit, though. Eau de Cologne, which starts and ends with hesperedic notes, is by definition fruity, and it's hard to dislike eau de cologne. Otherwise there are three ways that I like fruit in my perfume.
1) The fruity chypre. Granted, chypres contain bergamot, a fruit in its own right. But in many of the great chypres of the 20th century it is the fruit that gives the genre such an enormous range of moods. It gives Rochas Femme its come-hither gaze, Diorella its hint of afternoon trysts, Chanel Cristalle its remoteness, and Prescriptives Calyx its brimming elation. The chypre's moss gives the fruit a long shadow, and the world settles in to a slower, more deliberate, more poised state.
2) The woody, fruity perfumes like the Serge Lutens/Christopher Sheldrake Bois series (eg. Feminite du Bois, Bois et Fruit, Bois de Violette) and Keiko Mecheri Oliban. Dry woods/resins such as cedar and frankincense and sweet/tart fruit notes like plum and peach complement each other and have a raspy harmony. These perfumes purr and hum. They surround you and whisper in your ear. Christopher Sheldrake using woody amber aromachemicals revived this form in the 1980s and made a reference point for much of current perfumery.
3) The fruity musks. Some musks have have a berry-sweetness to them, and many fruits have a strong musky quality, especially when they're at the cusp of ripeness and rot. The fruit/musk pairing in perfumery feels preordained. Fruits provide a flavor' and musks add a roundness, backlighting. In the same way that butter and cream add both richness and mouth feel' to food, the fruity musks add a set of scents and olfactory qualities that might be called nose-feel'.
So, Mure et Muscs Extreme. It is definitively fruity (blackberry) but the fruit never appears out of proportion or sickly-sweet. An astringency, a greenness runs right down the center of Mure et Musc Extreme. It highlights the sweetness and roundness of the perfume. It's strong and can't be missed, but it just highlight the berry/musk accord. The musk is the pillow on which the fruit sits, and since the fruit and musk notes are of equal duration, Mure et Muscs lands somewhere between a top-to-bottom traditional accord and a linear one. It changes from start to finish, but most of the changes are an ongoing modulation of the original set of notes. Different notes step forward at different times, and Mure et Musc demonstrates the best of the linear fragrance.
Well, there is not much to say about this fragrance!
It's simple, pleasant, safe, boring and not bottle worthy in my opinion!
It's not bad , but I feel there are a few things missing in this fragrance!
They put the unisex sticker on it!
So where are woods?! where are spices?! where are floral notes? they could even throw a light animalistic note in but instead of using a little of these notes to make it more complex, they kept it in the simplest way!
At the opening you can smell a very light citrusy scent with some herbal smell from basil and a little amount of musk and fruity black berries!
There is no basil note in this fragrance but like her older sister it does have it!
The musky scent is very simple, light and slightly sweet.
In the dry down the citrusy and basil notes are almost gone and you will get a little stronger musk and now the black berries scent replaced by red berries!
Projection is very soft and longevity is good. around 6 hours.
It's a good smelling and simple fragrance but for the price that they're asking, forget about it!
I dont see it mentioned here but the first and strongest note i get out of this is very simple and straight citrus, which I'm admittedly never a big fan of. When that fades, which it does only after awhile (..when you want that note to vanish quickly, it actually disappoints by staying noticeable for quite some time..) what stays on my skin is only some very very generic soapy sweetish girlish something, which is just not very pleasant...
Sorry but this is really not for me, nor would i like to smell it on anybody else around me..
This is a fantastic scent; to me the top berries have a wonderful moistness about them, as if they had ripened during a very wet English summer! I don't find it candy-like at all; on the contrary, it's a refreshing and inofensive fragrance I would gladly wear during the day.
Now please dont anybody take this the wrong way, especially if you're a Mure et Musc lover .. but this scent literally made me want to vomit!
I got a strong aroma of sweaty, dirty bum (seriously, i kid you not. Does no-one else get this?) laced with sickly sweetness. Literally like someone had poured some sweet, syrupy gloop down a sweaty, dirty bum-crack. Thats the mental picture i got with every sniff, and couldnt shake off (no wonder i wanted to vomit, right?). I think the musk notes in this must be the animaly, dirty type musk? (rather than the soapy, clean white musks im used to).
And the sweet notes.. something akin to artificial (rotten) fruit. Urgh! For someone who is usually a lover of sweet gourmande notes this is just WAY too synthetically, nausiatingly sweet, even for me.
So yeah, for a scent i was dying to sample, and thought i would LOVE, this turned out to be a wholly unpleasant experience. I NEVER want to have to smell this odour again.
Actually, i tell you what else it reminded me of: When someone has been in the bathroom and, erm, stunk it out, and then sprayed a load of cheap sickly dewberry airfreshener to cover it up, but it just mingles into a sweet, poopy, dirty, gag-reflexing stench.
Yup, thats Mure et Musc in a nutshell for me. Thoroughly disgusting. :(
No. I see, together with Off-Scenter and others, a bombastic accord of blackberries-raspberries-white musk too much pushed towards the fruity side in the way that, unlike the original Mure et Musc, this one becomes unbalanced, overly fruity and deep, too much banal in substance. The Extreme one lacks that aqueous-woodsy subtle feel of the regular version. The daring original one (courageous formula) is not my cup of tea but is better for sure.
A WARNING TO ALL:This is FEMININE! If you are a man and you wear this, you must not have any delusion about your masculinity carrying the fragrance. It's not as feminine as something specifically marketed towards women, but I do feel that it isn't quite wearable by a man that just wants to smell good. Even in today's world of vague ambiguity and metrosexuality, this is a little too much. It is also very potent, so go easy.Now women, on the other hand, can wear this with impunity, unless I'm around, in which case they may have to get a restraining order. It's delicious and sexy and edible and everything a woman should smell like.And it really is basically just berries and musk.
Berries and clean musc. Who would have thought?L'Artisan have created in Mure et Musc Extreme a fragrance that offers the most natural fruity accords. Truly unique in that the berries here aren't sweet or gourmand; instead they are zesty and crisp.Ideal for daytime occasions,or the office. Longevity is about 4 hours which is OK as I like to wear something else in the afternoon.
This smells very similar to a few other women's fragrances out there. Its the same as when a girl passes you and you can smell the peach/fruit perfume from ten feet away. Not, by any means, a bad fragrance. In fact, I would probably consider it the finest of these "peach/fruit" perfumes (even though this doesn't contain any peach). With that being said, this isn't really suitable for a man. Easy thumbs up.
A funful fruity mishmash that smells very similar to Fructis hairspray, gel, wax etc. It`s unbelievably similar, only in warmer and richer version, off course.I have always loved the smell of those Fructis products, so it`s not hard for me to enjoy this one too.I get assorted collection of fruits ; mainly blackberries naturally, but also blackcurrants, apples, kiwis and some citruses. The base is warm, slightly animalic musk. More suitable for women.
If you don't like Mure et Musc, it makes sense to not try the Extreme, otherwise you'll be tempted to write a duplicate bad review referencing your original poor review. And that would just be totally absurd.I digress. L'Artisan continues to challenge and defy my normal fragrance preferences. I'm generally not at all fond of fruity fragrances, but I like this! Perhaps it's because the berry notes are not sweet, but sparkly - as though you were sniffing berry flavored soda water (Polar brand, if you know it). This berry, in confluence with the musky and powdery base, creates a unique fragrance that you just can't help but like. I'll admit I was indifferent at first, but just a couple repeat wears allowed me to see the simple happiness of MeM Extreme.As I sample more L'Artisan fragrances I'm finding that some of their most simply constructed scents are the best. It's counterintuitive that it should take a more trained nose to recognize the quality inherent in simplicity.