Monsieur Rochas
Rochas (1969)

Monsieur is a dignified masculine fragrance for self-assured men who aren't overly eager to impress. It is a series of opposing ideas that work. It is strangely rugged yet soft, mossy yet clean. It is spicy, floral and woody, yet dry and citrusy. It is elegant yet bold and at the same time shouts "gentleman" and exudes a certain classy timelessness.

The opening of Monsieur is a nice lavender, sage and lemon cocktail that is dry yet refreshing at the same time. As things progress, woody aspects enter. But here too, it’s not creamy or warm, although it is very smooth. Vetiver and moss keep things cool by making it feel just a little damp, that it smells like a magical and enchanted forest in day time, in fall, where you smell a deep, intense and natural smelling smoky green and outdoorsy oakmoss scent. I simply adore it, and it's bloody difficult once you've worn it to not make it an every-day type of fragrance. In a word, distinguished.

This review is for the vintage Eau De Cologne:

I get an opening of lemon rendered a little soapy from some lavender. This lemon note is also faintly spiced with cardamom. I get hints of chamomile and musk in the blend. This does have a vague green note and it's bright green to the nose- weak vetiver note or eucalyptus.

Monsieur Rochas is a clean and old-fashioned conservative scent. It's an enjoyable fragrance but it's not that exciting because it lacks depth. It's been very overhyped as a masterpiece in the realm of discontinued cologne. Dunhill for Men by Alfred Dunhill (1934) is a similar style to this one and is much deeper and aromatic and that's even the current formula. Dunhill for Men is going to cost you a hell of a lot less.

Yves Saint Laurent once said his sole regret was he didn't invent jeans.
His contemporary Guy Robert need have had no such worries.
He may not have invented the fougère, but in Monsieur Rochas he perfected it.
Robert had a saying : 'a perfume should - above all - smell good' and most people would agree - this passes the test.
Monsieur Rochas not only smells good, it smells wonderful.

[Vintage sample]

I am not here to make any profound declaration that this is anything more than a joyful, comforting wear for me. Unbridled joy from smelling nice things, that's what it really is all about. I am drawn to the wistful and nostalgic, and I firmly believe that my nose is even more hard-wired to memory and experience than the average person (perhaps that describes many of us fragrance enthusiasts?).

I am drawn to effervescence and spice, carnations, geranium, green and herbal notes, incense-y conifers and just a bit of dirt, round musk and mellow sweet hay breezes. It's all here in spades courtesy of a brilliant perfumer, Guy Robert, the mastermind behind another favorite in this vicinity, Hermes Equipage and the wispy, wistful aldehydic beauty that is Hermes Caleche EDT. He also just so happens to be the perfumer for Amouage Gold Man and Woman, both of which were coincidentally recommended to me in the past day or so. Hmm...could Amouage finally be my next deep dive after years of resistance?

Anyhow, Monsieur Rochas Eau de Toilette in my humble opinion is immaculate and a culmination of so much in scent that I hold dear to me, distilled in a sensible, noble release from the late 60's. I agree with Houdini4 that there is just a bit of the peachy sensation that we find in Caleche, here tempered by the cool and dry heart. Perhaps if powder is something that you can't jive with, the Guy Robert powder could possibly change your mind. It's more a stillness, a repose, a confidence to face the day kind of cleanness, but just a bit of attitude that conveys that you are no push-over, you have your own voice. Really, powder can say all of that? Guy Robert pow(d)er can.

It just makes me happy. It also reminds me that I'd like to look sharp again; I should invest more in my wardrobe and less on fragrances.

This is for vintage concentre

Herbal(aromatic),"tweedy", rural, dignified fougere. Smells very "natural". A gentleman's farmer scent. I want to wear it on a grey autumn morning, foraging chanterelles and porcini mushrooms

What an experience! The opening of the M. Rochas concentree I have is much like entering and leaving a venue featuring a live jazz band - from afar the song is muffled and bass-heavy, a warm and washed impression of what is inside. Once your nose is three inches, two inches, one inch from the skin, the door flies open and the volume is intense. The trumpeter is spitting carnation and chamomile everywhere and, though he is a young gun, he is taking center stage to everyone's surprise. Long time friends sage and oakmoss are holding down the walking bass line and adding a surprise dash of salt to the rim of tonight's glass, while a lovely soul singer dressed in bergamot wails over a backdrop of dry woods and spices. I recognize so many accords from other fragrances in this mix but I will refrain from listing them, as I can not recall the last time I wrote a review without a reference enclosed. What I will say is that this iteration of Monsieur is largely outdated but full of character, like an aging musician who has played with all the big names some time along the line. Effortless, persistent, and timeless. I now feel I have to try the other versions.