Moment Supreme is sublime! Seriously, there is something about it that does remind me of Patou's Sublime, which I love. Not that they are the same, but there is something in the Patou DNA common to both. It might be simply that they are both highly complex works of art, unusual in this clean/fruity/IFRA-policed age. It might be that they are both gorgeous and somewhat old-fashioned amber/spiced/florals. The reviews posted here describe MS better than I can - especially Mouchoir de Monsieur's review (Elmer's kindergarten glue! yes, indeed!) I have a vintage 1/5 oz ribbed bottle extrait, which I guess is 1970's or '80's? I'm not sure when MS was discontinued, or when that style bottle was used, except I have a Joy in that style bottle from the 80's. I especially enjoyed learning the history of Jean Patou - he was a lothario! Who knew? I believe 'moment supreme' is also a French euphemism for 'la petit morte', so that would be appropriate. Vive la France!
The opening is a blast straight from heaven, with a lavender of the highest quality entering centre stage, a rich lavender that is not very bright in itsself, but it is giving a nudge into brighter moments by some aldehydic lemons and a dash of bargamot in the background. These two are given further depth by the additon of a darker and smoulderingly glowing neroli. Other citrus components, like ripe mandarins and oranges, develop a bit later and add their flavour.
Nonetheless, the lavender does not rule the orpening noted unchallengedly; a rich and ripe peach is a nigh equal partner at times, whilst the lavender never really cedes overall dominance if this phase of the development.
In the drydown the floral power progressed incessantly to gain more grounds: A rich and intensive dyad of carnation geranium is combined with a couple of deep and velvety rose impression, with the Bulgarian rose coming across as darker and sweeter than the May rose. A powdery iris vying with the deep sweet spiciness of daffodils for my attention; this spiciness expresses characteristics of sweet cloves for some moments.
Apart form some added clover, I can also detect a restrained ylang-ylang, which becomes stronger off and on and adds a a creamy texture to the mix.
The rich and nuanced sweetness extends into the base, where it assumes a honeyed character, enhanced by a tonka note that is masterfully incorporated into the whole, a distinct note that never overwhelms; this is a credit to the high quality of the notes as well as the perfumer's high skill in combining such a large potpourri of components that could easily make good soliflores by themselves.
The last phase of the development of this colourful olfactory trajectory consists of the further enhancement of the spicy side, mainly a a high-quality oakmoss and a touch of darker musks and an injection of civet, but again these notes, which can easily overwhelm in higher concentration, are excellent team players, enhancing the whole without any capricious allures of a primadonne. An ambery wood - sandal mainly on me, as well as a well-applied benzoin, round off this extraordinay base.
I get strong sillage superb projection, and ten hours of longevity on my skin.
This olfactory tour de force is a wonderful scent for special events on cooler spring days, composed of ingredients of the highest quality, unsurpassed in combining complexity and blended masterfully. A bit heady at times, it needs to be applied very judiciously as the performance is so superb and splendid as a reflection of this being a traditional strong, rich, proper parfum. Suprême-ly confident, voluptuous, opulent, luxuriating, life-affirming it is skillfulness, old-fashioned in the best way: traditional in its uncompromising quest for quality and performance, powdery but never musty , not shying away from complexity, but never forbidding or rejecting in its approach. Velvet, glowing, chandeliers and candle-lit dinners.
Vintage Pre-Ma parfum review.
Its hesperidic lavender opening works well during the daytime while the cozy amber and dirty musk drydown warms me up later in the evening. Let's not forget its gorgeous clove and carnation heart. It is an amber lavender perfume with both calmness and opulence at the same time. It is such a beautiful perfume that moves me. Just like Billie Holiday's voice, rich, calm with a touch of naughtiness. Simply timeless..
I find it dated. A familiar smell used in many personal care products that my grandmother used.
I agree with le mouchoir de monsieur - "This scent is gone, and will never return. If it did, nobody would get it" and that it is a lavendar centric fragrance.
Old Spice copied Moment Supreme, shifting the focus away from florals towards spices. And old spice gave birth to million others. From that perspective Moment Supreme is a masterpiece.
I doubt it would sell well if it was reintroduced.
I can only echo what has already been said about Moment Supreme - that it smelled of soapy lavender. Both the original and Ma Collection versions smelled identical. With most fragrances, I find that Parfum suits my skin better than EDT/EDP, but Moment Supreme was the opposite: the Eau de Toilette was perfect, but the Parfum developed a very odd chemical note, which (mad as it sounds) always reminded me of Tippex/Liquid Paper/Snopake! (I don't know if it just reacted oddly on me, or whether anyone else noticed this chemical note).
I am very surprised that Moment Supreme hasn't been added to the new Collection Heritage as yet - I had imagined it would be one of the first, as it was apparently one of the best known, and widely available of the original Patou perfumes.
Le mouchoir de Monsieur writes the most evocative reviews; teaches one how to smell a perfume, is magnificent.
I was given, yesterday two very vintage bottles of this scent and will now treasure and enjoy it. How wonderful.