Mitsouko Eau de Toilette 
Guerlain (1919)

Average Rating:  7 User Reviews

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Mitsouko Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

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About Mitsouko Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

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Mitsouko Eau de Toilette is a women's perfume launched in 1919 by Guerlain

Fragrance notes.

  1. Top Notes

  2. Heart Notes

  3. Base Notes

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Reviews of Mitsouko Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

There are 7 reviews of Mitsouko Eau de Toilette by Guerlain.

I applied this EDT earlier this morning around three hours ago. Later I forgot which perfume I was wearing come lunchtime so began to sniff my wrist for a clue.
I got lots of spice (clove) with oakmoss and labdanum and immediately remembered it was Mitsouko.

This is a subtle beauty on my skin that lasts for quite a good while. They say Mitsouko chooses you and I feel grateful that she has chosen me today!

This isn't a vampish,come-hither fragrance but it is intelligent and unforgettable. I like to wear it on those day when Summer turns to Winter or Winter turns to Spring. There is a melancholy to it that I just love.

Despite all the soft pink loveliness that Guerlain poured into Mitsouko it's a difficult perfume to love. A fact clearly acknowledged by the advertising : a statuesque womans head in pen and ink, staring out of the page, eyeless.
And underneath, it bears the caption Are you her type?

And many people aren't. At first it can be difficult to know what to feel about this strange mixture of peaches & cream and dark mossy chypre.

Mitsouko is the exquisite perfection of Coty's prototype, his rather brusque invention of resins, patchouli and moss. Jacques Guerlain's masterstroke was to soften and balance this fauvist invention by adding a milky peach accord, giving Mitsouko a harmonic but dissonant contrast between the two parts : an almost brutally masculine base - decorated with a gorgeous feminine theme. Not a very complex perfume but a surely audacious one.

There is little else like it, especially these days, and this unfamiliarity only increases Mitsouko's outlandish feel to the perfume novice. I myself bought it, sold it, and only picked it up again much later, an old sample from a flea market finally correcting this glaring hole in my collection.

Like all the original chypres that have survived to this day Mitsouko's message hasn't been lost, but her timbre and nuances have changed; without oakmoss she now speaks in a different tone of voice. So it's pointless me trying to describe Mitsouko, you'll just have to go and try it for yourself, and see if she's really your type - or not.


The opening is a delightful mix of iris, clove and rose. Whilst there is an initial glimpse of bergamot brightness, quite soon the iris takes over and plays the central role on this olfactory stage.

Further into the drydown an impression of jasmine is added, as well as a tone impression. The rose is of medium brightness and quite smooth. The florals are in control here, but this all is linked together by a nice clove. With just a touch of spiciness, the clove aroma drenches the florals and provides a very good balancing act, resulting in the whole being very balanced and never really very sweet. A subtle powderiness is present too.

The base is characterised by the combination of a fairly restrained vanilla/tonka note, which again is not particularly sweet. A subtle oakmoss is there too, but is is rather perfunctory on my skin. The other main contributor is a labdanum and works very well with the vanilla core. Moments of a soft vetiver provide additional Flimmers of light.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This EDT, which is a good scent for spring, is less complex than the EdP, but in itself is a very good rendition of the theme. Overall 3.5/5.

Very like the eau de parfum, in most aspects. This one seems to have more clove, and a very lovely iris note. It also to me, has more vetiver and oakmoss in the base. Less citrus on top, as well. I enjoy it on most days. It is Not, a love of my life, as it is for many others.

1985 EDT.
Where the Extrait, on my Male skin presents a deep, complex, layered slow developing, smouldering heap of almost overripe Peach and Oakmoss halo
This EDT,on my Male skin, projects the same closer to that of an Eau de Parfum with faster development and resulting bubble. It also changes, unlike the Extrait, markedly, with the blending with my Masculine Musk.
This is reminiscent of the pattern presented to my snout by that of Jubilation 25 Extrait and Eau de Parfum.
That being said, I am more likely to reach for Heritage with it's marketing, Vol de Nuit with it's Galbanum edge and well Jubilation 25 with it's Tarragon, Incense and Cumin Incise.
Nevertheless, an absolutely gorgeous scent, with it's Chypre DNA largely intact.
On to the somewhat rare and dear Parfum de Toilette Vintage.

What wondrous story
Making past seem like present
Stirs in your bottle?

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